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 Post subject: Diff again...
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 1:07 pm 
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Hi Folks

I noticed some fresh oil on the driveway tonight and had a look underneath.
There is diff oil seeping out the front of the diff where it connects to the driveshaft, sorry to the purists for my lack of the correct terminology.

When driving i can hear a whine especially evident when i tap of the gas.

Can anyone help from my explanation or if not I'll post some pics over the weekend.

Thanks in advance.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 2:24 pm 
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From your description, the pinion seal may be leaking - replacement requires removing the pinion yoke

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 3:02 pm 
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Probably is, easy job or one of those PIZA jobs ?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 3:15 pm 
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Not especially easy, but not 2 difficult.................

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 Post subject: Always check the vent
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 5:43 pm 
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When I was in the repair business, I replaced a lot of differential housing seals and transmission seals that were blow out due to stuck vents. You may unclog the vent and have the leak stop with out replacing the seal, but check it anyway, good SOP!

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 Post subject: Re: Always check the vent
PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 2:05 am 
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warp2diesel wrote:
When I was in the repair business, I replaced a lot of differential housing seals and transmission seals that were blow out due to stuck vents. You may unclog the vent and have the leak stop with out replacing the seal, but check it anyway, good SOP!


I'll do that if i know what i'm looking for, is the vent on top of the diff as i located a black connector with nothing plugged into it?

Once again thanks for the help.

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 Post subject: Re: Always check the vent
PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 9:43 am 
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mackruss wrote:
warp2diesel wrote:
When I was in the repair business, I replaced a lot of differential housing seals and transmission seals that were blow out due to stuck vents. You may unclog the vent and have the leak stop with out replacing the seal, but check it anyway, good SOP!


I'll do that if i know what i'm looking for, is the vent on top of the diff as i located a black connector with nothing plugged into it?

Once again thanks for the help.


Vent is either on top or there is a hose connection going to the vent in a remote location to keep it out of the water. I suspect our CRDs have a hose going to the vent.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 11:22 am 
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Okay, here's a pic of my problem, hope this will help all who are willing..





Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 7:52 pm 
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Pinion seal looks dry. (Pinion seal is closest to housing, behind the U-Joint mounting plate. I think the seal that seals the pinion shaft splines to the yoke housing is leaking. This would be just under the nut, or the nut could be loose.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 2:20 am 
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Turbo Tim wrote:
Pinion seal looks dry. (Pinion seal is closest to housing, behind the U-Joint mounting plate. I think the seal that seals the pinion shaft splines to the yoke housing is leaking. This would be just under the nut, or the nut could be loose.


I'm still a bit hesitant to tackle this one.

Can i loosen the 4 nuts by applying pressure on the diff?

Once i've removed the yoke, is it possible to tighten the nut then and do i need a special tool.

I can feel play in the flange so i do suspect a loose nut.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 7:59 am 
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mackruss wrote:
I'm still a bit hesitant to tackle this one.

Can i loosen the 4 nuts by applying pressure on the diff?

Once i've removed the yoke, is it possible to tighten the nut then and do i need a special tool.

I can feel play in the flange so i do suspect a loose nut.


Since you've gotten no replies yet I'll tell you what little I know about that area.
There is a special "crush washer" in that area and it yeilds a certain amount when it's properly torqued. this all is necessary to maintain proper alignment between the pinion gear that is on that shaft to the big ring gear. The fact you have a whine indicates this alignment is not correct.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 9:19 am 
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Check the u-joints. I had one freeze up which caused the drive shaft to spin off center. gave a vibration and caused that seal to leak.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 1:35 pm 
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Normally the pinion shaft splined area is cleaned and RTV'ed just prior to installing clean pinion yoke, washer and nut - cured RTV is the shaft\yoke seal - could be as simple as removing the nut\washer, clean yoke\shaft\washer\nut with lacquer thinner, quickly apply fresh bead of RTV around shaft\yoke interface, do the ewasher\nut, and may seal - could be whining due to low lube level, or due to out-of-spec torque make-up on the crush washer, as noted

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 3:06 pm 
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gmctd wrote:
Normally the pinion shaft splined area is cleaned and RTV'ed just prior to installing clean pinion yoke, washer and nut - cured RTV is the shaft\yoke seal - could be as simple as removing the nut\washer, clean yoke\shaft\washer\nut with lacquer thinner, quickly apply fresh bead of RTV around shaft\yoke interface, do the ewasher\nut, and may seal - could be whining due to low lube level, or due to out-of-spec torque make-up on the crush washer, as noted


So i need to loosen the 4 bolts and slide the yoke off the flange this will allow me access to the nut. Loosen the nut and remove the washer and reseal with RTV and then replace washer and nut and remount.

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 Post subject: Clean it off with Break Cleaner before....
PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 3:44 pm 
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mackruss wrote:
gmctd wrote:
Normally the pinion shaft splined area is cleaned and RTV'ed just prior to installing clean pinion yoke, washer and nut - cured RTV is the shaft\yoke seal - could be as simple as removing the nut\washer, clean yoke\shaft\washer\nut with lacquer thinner, quickly apply fresh bead of RTV around shaft\yoke interface, do the ewasher\nut, and may seal - could be whining due to low lube level, or due to out-of-spec torque make-up on the crush washer, as noted


So i need to loosen the 4 bolts and slide the yoke off the flange this will allow me access to the nut. Loosen the nut and remove the washer and reseal with RTV and then replace washer and nut and remount.


... you apply the RTV. You want the surfaces to be chemically clean before you put on the RTV, that way it will bond and seal.
I had a field fix on a piece of waste water equipment that used silicone sealant (RTV) to keep a gutter tray from leaking poop sludge all over the floor. Out of all the ones I did they held and did not leak.
If you slop the RTV on with oil or grease on the surface and you stand a good chance of a leak.

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 Post subject: leak
PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2009 8:40 pm 
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Your leak seems to be pretty big. I would remove the 4 bolts and slide the drivesgaft out of the way. The round pinion yoke should have no play "up and down" or "in and out". If there is, I would assume a bad pinion bearing.

This would also account for the noise. Growling on acceleration is the drive side of the gears contacting improperly. This is usually from a bad bearing allowing the pinion to walk further into the housing. If the bearing have gone bad, I would recommend a complete rebuild with new bearings, seals and gears. I have built many rear ends and they never work as nicely when patched back together with pinion bearings.

Travis

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 3:49 pm 
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I had the same problem, after I changed the U-joints it cleared up. I keep a spare with me now just in case. lol

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 9:48 pm 
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Mine has a leak too. It isn't nearly as bad as Mackruss's. Mine does appear to be from the area of the seal. It's mild. I don't have dripping, but there's an even coating everywhere. Having a bad u-joint was suggested. Because I get a mild thunk from time to time on take-off, I'm wondering if the ball joint in the tri-link is bad. Could this potentially lead to the leak?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 12:47 pm 
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Funny you said that, my kj is at home on the lift right now. I thought my trans was going when i heard some disturbing noise from underneath... come to find out that the rear upper ball joint and body mount bushings were completely shot which makes a lot of noise...Fixing that first thing after work. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 1:36 am 
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Hi Guys

I sent her in yesterday on a flatbed to a repair shop that has rebuilt Dana 44 diffs mant times rather than take a chance.

I'll let you know the outcome for those of you who have a similar problem.

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