After only 2 weeks on rough Milwaukee roads my struts are shot, anyone that drives 43 and Layton Ave knows what I'm talking about.

I know the struts are shot darn near tosses me off the road if I hit a rough spot, front end bounces and floats like I'm driving a jet ski.

only 70k miles. very sad for a 2006 to need second set of breaks and struts so soon. It needs new rear rotors and breaks second set in 2 years.

Long gone are the days when you didn't even have to think about replacing anything for the first 100k miles, unless you wanted too.

Fix or buy new that is the question.

Guess I will replace the struts and breaks soon before my trip out east to tow my '46 CJ2A back home.

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1946 CJ2A

I don't want to seem pushy but let's all try to use spell check. You mean brakes not breaks. Maybe you took a break when in spelling class. I had to replace my front rotors and pads at about 65k also the rear pads which were completely worn out. I also changed my brake fluid to full synthetic which did make the pedal feel a bit harder and gives you a higher boiling point and will not absorb any moisture like regular brake fluid can. Buy good brake pads and not the cheapest ones they will last longer.

Just about any Chrysler product built after '05 have junk brakes for some reason,I've already replaced the pads/rotors on all 4 corners of '09 Town&Country twice and it only has 35,000miles.Same thing happening with the pickups and other cars also.

As far as the shocks they where only designed to last about 50,000miles anyway,as is most aftermarket stuff until you get into stuff made by Rancho or OME.

Maybe check the ball joints too. Mine are bad and through me all over the road. I just have not had the time to get to the dealer to have them replaced. BTW they are free for life because they were recalled.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

I'm going on 60,000 and have the original brakes. Maybe it's your driving? Inner city driving is hard on brakes. Rough streets are hard on struts. Changing your vehicle won't change your problem.

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

I replaced my rear brakes @ ~47 and fronts about 10k later. I didn't think it was too bad considering I drive in DC stop and go traffic. The only oddity is the rears wearing out before the fronts.

I still have original struts/shocks @ 66k but they are about due for replacement.

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Ryan
2006 Ford F-250 PSD CC FX4
**GONE**
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
SAMCO Hoses//GDE Tune//PML Trans Pan//TransGo HD Shift Kit//MBRP Exhaust

1986 2R Mustang SVO

"Breaks" is properly spelled

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

i just replaced mine at 32k. DC driving also.
Rear were shot. Front were great.
No idea what the previous owner drove like. Must have been like a mad man

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2005 Liberty CRD
235/75R16 Firestone Destination's, Fumoto Valve
Boiler's Aluminum Roof Rack

before moving here I had 2 stop signs, one stop light, about 1 mile at 30mph and 20 miles of interstate speeds. No stop and go at all.

Just getting noticeable worse day to day.

Sorry kccrd I'm not an English major.

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1946 CJ2A

My front discs and pads had to be replaced a few weeks ago - at 19000 miles! The rears are fine, but the front discs had warped! I'm a careful driver and am never in a rush, so I'm pretty easy on brakes and I couldn't believe they'd gone so soon! I sold my little old Peugeot 306 with the original discs and pads at 75000!

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Light Khaki 2.8CRD: TJM alloy bumper; Skid Row &Asfir skids;ext. breathers; SAMCO hoses; Grabber At3 235/70/16; Fumoto; Euro TC; Odyssey PC1500;GDE FTEcotune; OME lift; lightforce driving lights;ARB diff cover;nylon fan+Hayden2905;ss vortex exhaust; Airflow snorkel; Frontrunner roofrack; rock rails

My wife's 05 sport sounds like the front end is falling apart, not sure if it's struts, stabilizers or ball joints ,going in shop next week for full front end inspection. It only has 47K on it, just cant buy quialit anymore. I thin her brakes were replace @ 39K right before we bought it, they looked brand new.
"breaks" is spelled correctly when used grammatically correct.

Now you all know why so many of us in the Midwest drive SUVs. We have simulated off road adventures driving around and through potholes and road construction. Only for the brief period of time just before the Election Day, there are some smooth spots in some of the roads. ESC on '06 CRDs eat up more brakes than '05s.

Onthehunt: Is the story about a Blond lady being fired for telling a Blond joke in Madison true or just a false rumor?
I have heard both.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Madison is so PC I wouldn't be surprised.

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1946 CJ2A

Madison is like California to me- I pay no attention to it. I have no idea what your talking about. I shall ask around. Never know around here.

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

If you're looking for shocks this place has em for a good price.
http://shox.com/
Look at what they're selling Bilsteins for! I don't even need them and ordered 4 for my truck. Mine are eventually going to go soon with 55k on the clock. Never heard anything bad about Bilsteins either so good luck to you.
To harbor on the brake issue, all new vehicles have been having brake issues with regards to wear. The rotors are not meant to be "cut" so inevitably you will need to change pads and rotors instead of pads and maybe a cut on the lathe. This was done for cost and weight savings. Not going to go into a conspiracy theory on this but we can kind of see why a company would want you to come in every 30-40k for a simple brake job.
Most rubes go to the dealer and take what they say for face value.
“We were under your Jeep during our inspection we noticed it was time to balance your tires and change the muffler bearings. You will also need to lube the valve stems. Your brakes are worn. You can still drive the truck sir, but they are worn and the parts are in stock. We can have you out of here in 2 hours. Please sit in the lounge and buy snacks from the vending machines for $2 each. Don't mind the laughter from the garage, that's just normal as our techs are just so happy. Hey! Is that thing a diesel?"

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06 Liberty Sport
DIESEL
Skid Row Engine and Fuel Tank Skid Plates, straight pipe, modified air box, Tow Hooks, 245/70/16 Hankook ATM RF10s, Kennedy Lift Pump,Home Made Provent, Husky Liners throughout, Wet Okole seat covers, All J Products Rear Storage Shelf, Fumoto, Frozen Rotors-Cross Drilled and Slotted, and Bilsteins all around

Aybe I should be more positive about this.

lift kit for the CRD.

Anyone make an affordable one for the CRD's?

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1946 CJ2A

52K on the clock and I'm starting just now to hear some squeak when I brake at slow speed, so it's coming up. I do a lot of highway driving, so I can wait a little while.

Moose, I'm a grammar nerd too, but I'm not going to say anything. Not a word. Just don't change your avatar. . . .

And NJCRD, this is for you:

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In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)