Stub shafts and bushings questions

jg45 · **Posted:** Sun Sep 06, 2009 7:35 pm

Is it possible to determine if the stub shaft for the passenger side front is bad without tearing the whole thing down and removing the half shaft? The inner CV assembly is really wobbly on mine and I want to know if I need to order the part before I tear the whole thing down.

Also, how does one replace the rubber bushings where the clevic connects to the LCA?

onespeeder · **Posted:** Sun Sep 06, 2009 10:05 pm

RAYMAN975 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 07, 2009 12:10 pm

im going to almost guarantee that your inner shaft splines will be worn too. they pretty much wear in sync with each other. its a dealer only part, i got mine for about 160 with the discount i get there. i dont know why napa or other stores dont have that part

theres a couple threads here about this issue and about 2 videos. i would post my video but dont know how, its on my phone, and on verizon pix i cant save the vid to my computer :roll:

the issue is, the male splines on the half shaft stick "outside" of the differential bearings/seals, and the female end on the CV slides over, that, so both are exposed to mud/winter salt/road grime, gets in the splines and wears them out. so they arent sealed "inside" the differential housing. especially if you offroad a lot, dirt will get in there. the place i offroad is an old rock/sand quarry, so that crap tears EVERYTHING up, especially seals and brakes and things like this CV issue

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Mon Sep 07, 2009 4:23 pm

jg45 wrote:

Also, how does one replace the rubber bushings where the clevic connects to the LCA?

I did the clevis bushing and the lower control bushings. I took the lower control arm completely off. Took a torch to the rubber parts of the bushing until I could pull out the metal core of the bushing. I used an air hammer to crush & cut out the rest of the bushing. Finally, a ball joint press to push in the new bushings.

jg45 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:24 pm

LostRenegade wrote:

jg45 wrote:

Also, how does one replace the rubber bushings where the clevic connects to the LCA?

I did the clevis bushing and the lower control bushings. I took the lower control arm completely off. Took a torch to the rubber parts of the bushing until I could pull out the metal core of the bushing. I used an air hammer to crush & cut out the rest of the bushing. Finally, a ball joint press to push in the new bushings.

Sounds like I will be taking it some where as I don't have access to a torch or ball joint press. Thanks for the info.

darren/wayne · **Posted:** Wed Sep 15, 2010 3:11 pm

RAYMAN975 wrote:

im going to almost guarantee that your inner shaft splines will be worn too. they pretty much wear in sync with each other. its a dealer only part, i got mine for about 160 with the discount i get there. i dont know why napa or other stores dont have that part

I know it's been a year since this post ... I got the CV half shaft for my 06 (Nov.2009) at O'Reilly's Auto Parts for about $70. I've found the inner stub shaft at trailquest, jeep4x4center, rompalicious: $80, $190, $88 respectively. Advertised prices as of 9-15-10.

This seems to be my next repair as well.

Thanks for your description of the reason for the deterioration of the CV/Stub shaft joint. That makes a lot of sense now.

Wayne

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Sep 15, 2010 4:06 pm

darren/wayne wrote:

RAYMAN975 wrote:

im going to almost guarantee that your inner shaft splines will be worn too. they pretty much wear in sync with each other. its a dealer only part, i got mine for about 160 with the discount i get there. i dont know why napa or other stores dont have that part

I know it's been a year since this post ... I got the CV half shaft for my 06 (Nov.2009) at O'Reilly's Auto Parts for about $70. I've found the inner stub shaft at trailquest, jeep4x4center, rompalicious: $80, $190, $88 respectively. Advertised prices as of 9-15-10.

This seems to be my next repair as well.

Thanks for your description of the reason for the deterioration of the CV/Stub shaft joint. That makes a lot of sense now.

Wayne

Wayne,
First thing you need to do is take back the CV shaft you got at O'Reillys, theirs are not made to spec ( too short) and will give you problems PLUS you can get one at NAPA rebuilt that works for around 50-60 plus trade in. Autozone and the rest are the same, cheap knockoffs. NAPA's work great.
The intermediate shaft make sure they are not some Chinese knockoff as well make sure they are OEM. Contact Eric at 800-270-5224 or email ericautopart@aol.com for the Intermediate shaft
Tom

darren/wayne · **Posted:** Wed Sep 15, 2010 4:57 pm

Thanks for the info Tom. At the time I needed to get my DD back on the road and O'Reilly's was the only place I could get one here in Po-Dunk Arkansas. At least this time the CV is still in one piece.

Do you know if the Intermediate Shaft can be replaced with out removing the entire differential? Any C-Clips or pins holding it in the carrier?

Thanks again Tom,
Wayne
p.s. I just sent you an email with another question.

kskj · **Posted:** Wed Sep 15, 2010 6:12 pm

The intermediate shaft should pull right out. When I pulled my cv out the shaft pulled out with it. Tapped on it with a hammer a couple of times and the two parts separated.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Wed Sep 15, 2010 6:42 pm

When I replaced my worn CV's last year I found the intermediate shaft to be in perfect order; it now has over 100K miles on it... just sayin'

tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Sep 15, 2010 7:54 pm

Well JLR , mine did over 135,000 before I had to replace it or the right side CV, lifted over 100,000 but it was ready then

just sayin....ya know! :ROTFL:

darren/wayne · **Posted:** Wed Sep 15, 2010 11:42 pm

We only have 78,000 miles on ours (54,000 lifted).

We have already split the front diff in half, replaced driver side CV axle, broke both JBA upper A arms.....and we only go wheeling once or twice a year. Now its the passenger side CV & Intermediate shaft joint that is real wobbly. :roll:

No, I'm not gonna ask what's next. I can't afford to.

I must say, the 4.10 gears, Detroit Tru-Trac and Detroit Locker are a big help now with the 265/70-17 tires. :BANANA:

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Tue Sep 21, 2010 12:02 pm

[quote="darren/wayne"]We only have 78,000 miles on ours (54,000 lifted).

We have already split the front diff in half, replaced driver side CV axle, broke both JBA upper A arms.....and we only go wheeling once or twice a year. quote]

Hmmm... broke two JBA UCA's only wheeling once or twice per year... hmmm.... anyone want to comment? Stumpy? :SOMBRERO:

darren/wayne · **Posted:** Tue Sep 21, 2010 6:32 pm

The UCA's didn't break from any specific incident. I dealt with Marlin, one on one, and had a favorable outcome. He was going to post a message on here about inspecting your UCA's very closely around the welds. (I don't know if he did or not) I thought it would sound better coming from him than me.

You can guess what caused the front diff to split in half. Front tires spun, front tires hopped a couple of times, BOOM, then "Hey, is that gear oil"? :furious:

That's where the gears and the Detroit's came in. UPGRADE

The replacement front diff came out of a salvage yard (diesel Liberty) with 4.10 gears. I had to search for the gears to match the rear end. Quality 4.10 gears are hard to find. I just about gave up, then I called Superior Axle & Gear in California. Had them in a few days.

CJ3A1953 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 18, 2010 11:55 pm **Posts:** 2

Thanks for all the info. My pass shaft and cv stripped out and was full of rust dirt.
third cv shaft for this side. Run 3 inch lift with 265-70-16s. Sure miss my old Cherokees, could abuse them all day and never tear up the axles. The video below shows how I use my jeeps. In 35 years of offroadin CJ and Cherokees never broke an axle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zbx8fYA1 ... re=channel

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:10 pm

nature of the IFS / CV beast

I'd go ahead and get a replacement D30A you're on the path to grenading that with that sort of wheel spin

were you air'ed down at all?

Checked out your other vids though, I liked this one http://www.youtube.com/user/cj3a1953#p/ ... 4mgWnV3TGI

ya need a DTT Brah!

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:12 pm

in 35 years of wheeling I have broken my fair share of CJs/YJs/XJs
The Liberty has held up as good as any of them
not sure what you are talking about. Its all on how you drive!

Stub shafts and bushings questions

Who is online