CRD will not start, just died HELP!

cutezangel · **Joined:** Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:26 pm **Posts:** 62

Just moved our 06' Libby CRD and it just died, will not start anymore, all looks good, cranks but no fire!
We have been having some EGR valve issues (loss power).
We where going to take it in this week.
Any suggestions?
They will not tow us, since it is in the driveway, what a poo. I may tow it out to the street to have 'em tow it to the dealer!
many thanks.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Try pushing the primer above the fuel filter a few times. It should become hard to push after 5-10 applications. This should pressurize the fuel against the Bosch ufel pump, it may help to have someone pushing the primer while you are cranking. The no start condition you describe can sometimes we attributed to no fuel in the rail. It may have just lost prime if you are lucky.

It may take up to 10 seconds of cranking to rebuild fuel pressure if that is the issue.

cutezangel · **Joined:** Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:26 pm **Posts:** 62

thx, going out to try it.
Maybe I'll pour some gasoline over the engine to help it start too. Just kidding, Wify would kill me, she loves her Libby.

cutezangel · **Joined:** Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:26 pm **Posts:** 62

Thanks!!

It was the prime, never had that before!
So many thanks, now we can drive that thing to the dealer and have 'em install a new EGR valve.

One more question is the a go around on the EGR valve, like welding the valve shut and leaving the valve part operational, so it will not through a code?

I need a solution once the warranty is out, since that seems to be the biggest problem on the CRD's.

Thanks again.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:24 am

Pull the heater plug off the fuel manager head (where the filter and prime pump is) and push the primer and check for fuel running out there.
The heater plug burns and causes a vacuum leak. There are other causes for air in the fuel too but this is the biggest one.

cutezangel · **Joined:** Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:26 pm **Posts:** 62

just did the priming again and saw, that there where bubbles coming from the thread of the fuel filter. So that would cause it to have a power loss too?
I thought the power loss is and instant determination for the EGR v.....

We love the Libby, especially out here in Southern California.
I (man) would only complain of the lack of ground clearance. Maybe one day we can afford a lift kit

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:43 am

The fuel system is normally under a vacuum so any leak no matter how small will allow air to get in and worst case will cause a stall. It's said that it's as hard to seal a vacuum system as it is to seal a 1000 psi system. If you've just put on a new fuel filter it's common for the small "o" ring from the old filter to stick to the filter head and cause a leak. The fuel lines to the tnk are from a gasoline KJ and the gassers have a pressurized system with a pump in the tank.
My 06 acted up new from day one mile one back in 06. The ultimate solution for me and others was to install a lift pump in the tank.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Is the dealer going to replace the EGR valve under warranty? If not...there are other options than having the valve replaced and a lot more bang for the buck.

You should have the dealer install the new fuel water separater: 68043089AA

This part has larger electrical terminals to keep it from melting and should be covered under the TSB 18-011-09 for free if you complain enough. Otherwise the part is $80 through Mopar Parts America online. It should fix the priming issue with the fuel system.

cutezangel · **Joined:** Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:26 pm **Posts:** 62

I am not sure, since we are in CA and they didn't sell the KJ CRD's here.
I would hope so.

In your opinion, what would you do?
:?:

Wobbly · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2009 4:13 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

Is the dealer going to replace the EGR valve under warranty? If not...there are other options than having the valve replaced and a lot more bang for the buck.

You should have the dealer install the new fuel water separater: 68043089AA

This part has larger electrical terminals to keep it from melting and should be covered under the TSB 18-011-09 for free if you complain enough. Otherwise the part is $80 through Mopar Parts America online. It should fix the priming issue with the fuel system.

The new water separator was on a month long backorder there when I ordered it. Don't forget the wiring "kit" that goes with it.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

If you have to replace the EGR at your cost it will cost around $700. We would recommend our tune at www.greendieselengineering.com

The tune will solve the CEL for EGR, no need to replace the unit and you will have new found power and fuel economy at less cost than a new valve. Of course, we are biased in believing our product is the best add-on for the CRDs, so you should see what other customers think about the GDE tune. Good Luck!

LocoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2009 4:40 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

If you have to replace the EGR at your cost it will cost around $700. We would recommend our tune at www.greendieselengineering.com

The tune will solve the CEL for EGR, no need to replace the unit and you will have new found power and fuel economy at less cost than a new valve. Of course, we are biased in believing our product is the best add-on for the CRDs, so you should see what other customers think about the GDE tune. Good Luck!

Unless it is stuck partially open...

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:25 pm

LocoCRD wrote:

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

If you have to replace the EGR at your cost it will cost around $700. We would recommend our tune at www.greendieselengineering.com

The tune will solve the CEL for EGR, no need to replace the unit and you will have new found power and fuel economy at less cost than a new valve. Of course, we are biased in believing our product is the best add-on for the CRDs, so you should see what other customers think about the GDE tune. Good Luck!

Unless it is stuck partially open...

...take action to let it R.I.P. Mr.Mopar has had some luck cleaning and freeing them up before.

In regards to the EGR on Diesels, male hogs are born with nipples :!:

Nuff said for now, too much work to do.

cutezangel · **Joined:** Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:26 pm **Posts:** 62

how do I know if it is stuck open? do I have to take it apart?
Is it hard to take it off?
Not even sure where it is.
My cummins is easier to see, all so tight in the Libby :shock:

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Unplug the MAF and see if the vehicle accelerates good with minimal turbo lag and not much smoke. If it does then the EGR is stuck closed. If it smokes heavily and takes time to build some boost, then the valve may be stuck partially open. 95% of the time it will be stuck closed. We can put together a cleaning routine, but consider it a 4 hour messy job. It could also be a slow valve or a valve that will not open fully...

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

Quote:
95% of the time it will be stuck closed.

I would invite GDE to post accurate, verifiable proof of this statement. If not, this would be an unsubstantiated claim.

I understand the economic climate that GDE is attempting to survive in, but why not take the high road rather than post an unsubstantiated fact, in order to support an earlier position that your tune is a viable substitute for a working egr valve?

Please post the supporting data collected by Chrysler Corporation showing 95% of egr failures result in a closed egr valve.

Thanks

cutezangel · **Joined:** Mon Jul 17, 2006 4:26 pm **Posts:** 62

whats better open or closed?
I was under the impression closed is the way to go?

GDE:

so it is a tune only no hardware stuff at all?
Like a chip type thing?

95BadBoy · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:06 pm

It is just a tune to the ECU. No parts at all.

kdlewis1975 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:22 pm

It is preferable for the EGR valve to get stuck in the closed position which would prevent it from introducing exhaust gases to the intake. If you're perceptive, you should notice a difference in how loud the engine is at idle. Idle is a little louder when the valve is closed than when it is open. I'm in the same boat you are in terms of needing to address the EGR. For a while, mine was slowly actuating, but for the time being, it seems to be behaving itself.

In terms of what the GDE tune does, the reprogram the engine computer with a new fuel map and optimize the amount of boost from the turbo throughout the RPM range. They can also adjust some other parameters if you wish. I don't have their tune yet, but I'm impressed by the amount of testing they've done in order to develop and optimize it.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Ranger,

We are taking the high road by trying to help customers that are not finding the right help from the OEM. We can not provide data from the OEM as it does not exist. We have seen at least 30 EGR failures from the field and at least 95% were failed closed. Here is the reasoning behind this:

The KJ EGR valve is electrically actuated and only provides about 30nm of force to open the valve at max current draw...this is not much. A vacuum actuated EGR vavle can provide up to 300 nm of force to open a valve, which makes it almost impervious to failing closed, less a diaphram failure. The main issues with the KJ EGR valve are that it is on the hot side (before the EGR cooler), so the gases can be above 400 C at many times in normal conditions. The valve is also aluminum and has the tendency to flex with high temps. Any side loading on the valve will cause it to stick (issue #1). The second problem is when the vehicle is driven at light loads for a while, a thin film can adhere to the valve seat and shaft while it is open and after it is closed for a while after shutdown the film will harden and become very sticky. This is the primary failure mode of the valve (issue #2). the valve will not typically fail open because when EGR is active its duty cycle varies constantly to provide the proper mixture of recirculated gases, this is exercising the valve and tends to keep it working.

Hopefully this explanation is helpful for you.

CRD will not start, just died HELP!

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