calling all crd owners!

robrub00 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:23 pm

I just bought a 2005 JEEP CRD LIBERTY LIMITED WITH EVIC AND leather. i drove it back from texas to california. it had a glow plug code when I bought it. I made it back safe and i decided i was going to replace the fuel filter, air filter etc and while i was in there i was going to do the glow plugs. i started to turn the number 2 and it was binding up. so i decided to stop and wait and just have my mechanic do it. i put the fuel filter back on and wnet to bed. the next mourning i was headed to my mechanic to drop it off and on the way i broke down. it seemed to be leaking fuel out ot one of the electrical connections on it( common problem) so my mechanic ordered the part from DC. it was on back order and took a week to come it. it finally got n so my mechanic started to get working and changing the glow plugs and fuel seperator. well. he foind that the glow plug was in 6 pieces( not all were pieces were accounted for) and the plug looks to have been cross threaded. he is telling me that the ceramic pieces are in the engine and i may need to rebuild it. i obviously need at least a new head( the thread pitch and Number is some odball thread so he cant just chase it) sooo. basically i need help locating spare parts due to the fact that im in california and they arnt available very readily here. I just got the loan for the car and im going to have to come up with a ton more mony for labor and rebuild so anything you guys can tell me as far as where to get good deals on these parts or if anyone has a cheep replacemen t engine i would appriciate it!. thank in advance

P.s. i loved driving the crd back from texas it seems like a great vehicle but im afraid this will be a reoccuring problem!

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:14 pm

It does not seem to matter where you live, spare parts are not plentyfull :cry:

FWIW VW is recalling tdi's with ceramic glow plugs and is putting metal ones in :lol:

robrub00 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:17 pm

haha. is there a metal replacement for the jeeps yet! this situation has me messed up. i bought a newer car because my 85 toyota 4runner ( turbo) ihas been a project and money pit and im tired of it. my mechanic will have the head off tues and let me know more!

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:19 pm

Howdy

Odds are the glow plug pieces either blew out - or did whatever damage they're going to do on the 1st engine revolution after it broke.
The paperwork says you're supposed to pull the head to check - but I've now killed 9 glow plugs on cylinder 2 - they all had a small section blow out - no engine damage.
(However it's under warranty - one of STAR's idea was to change all 4 plugs - they broke one and pulled the head to clean that)

If you can find a small enough tip a borescope could verify the piece is gone.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:22 pm

I would have let the glow plugs alone and left it to a mechanic. you should not need them in califorina. I am in pennaylvaina and so far since I had mine I have only seen the glow plug light come once for a flash of a second on a cool morning in the upper 40's. now that its broken and in the cylnderit must be removed if the engine was not run like that the least you will need is the head removed, new head gasket and plugs replaced. may as well get a new timing belt while its apart.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:23 pm

I just remembered that MrMopar64 said if there was a bad glow plug module it would keep one on and burn it out. He suggested replacing the GP module as there been a few lately that have done this

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:24 pm

If the glow plug pieces did some damage...you would probably know it(rattles like a gattling gun)...speaking from personal experience. I was at 8,000 miles so DC replaced the whole engine assembly.

I would do as suggested above and take a look.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:28 pm

This is CatCRD's - the tips of mine looked similar
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=31515&highlight=glow+plug

(and my glow plug module has been replaced and the wiring harness - still dies P1263 - cylinder 2 - others were fine before STAR wanted to replace them - and fine afterwards)

flman · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 7:55 pm

I agree, not worth pulling the head, the damage is done, and your CRD still runs fine, if that thing was ceramic, it was macerated and blown out the exhaust by now. In Cali, just tap it, and put a pipe plug in it. Turn off the rest of the GPs.

robrub00 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 8:37 pm

my mechaniic is going to get a bore scope hopefully tommarow from the snap on guy. hopefully it will show there is no damage!!!! does anyone know the thread measurements of the glow plugs or where i can get a tap for it
???? my mechanic says it isnt a standard size

so how would i start the vehicle when its cold out if i turned off the glow plugs??

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 10:55 pm

so are we thinking hs glow plug or what was left in there was brunt up and expelled? if that could have happened that would be good news for him...... no need to pull the head. from what I read some place if the piece was ceramic and is in broken in the engine during removal of the GP it is removed by opening the engine via the head.

I hope nothing lke that happens to mine.... the thought of that repair bill one may have to pay.

where in california are you does it get under freezing often? it is very likely you don't need them, heat from compression may be enough to fire your jeepif it never gets very cold.

robrub00 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:02 pm

i go snowboarding to tahoe in the winter. i hope it magically dissapeared! im guessing it will have to have the head removed and then possibly rebuilt!

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:03 pm

Use the block heater when its cold out. That will ensure that both the oil is warmed up, and that the engine will fire like it's in the 70s. It might crank a couple more than usual, but the compression WILL heat up the cylinders enough. I wouldn't plug the cylinder, there is a LOT of pressure in there. Get a second opinion on the threads, IIRC it is just a metric thread, probably like 1.5 pitch (fine thread) and 10 mm or so diameter. The Snap-On guy will have a tap / die set that can match it, you just need a non-FUBAR example to test it. Don't try using one of those crappy feeler gauges, use the dies. They will spin on nicely when you have the right size. Too small / wrong pitch will feel like it wants to cut.

Oh, and an idea to match the pitch - use the tap, put the threads against each other. If you see daylight, its wrong. If they mesh perfectly... Bingo.

robrub00 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:12 pm

Can't plug it in at the resort. I'll see I have 4 brand new plugs I'll go down there and see sat when I get off this 48 hour shift.

robrub00 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:09 pm

the bore scope couldnt get into the Glow plug hole so he is pulling the head but i just talked to him . he says his shop software

"Mitchel repair" dosent make sense for timing belt alignment and cam gear alighnment for dissasembly. does anyone have an engine repair manual or shop manual that I could buy from you or either pdf or likewise? or can some one scan the head removal instructions off there manual and email them to me??? he's trying to take the head off but dosent want to damage the head trying to get it off because his software is wrong. plus parts are hard to get in california.

my mecanic is a import mechanic ( bmw and audi etc.) does he need special tools for this job or can he work around the special tools needed?

he has done alot of work for me and he is getting to the poing were he might want to refer the job to a dealer mechanic and i really would rather not have to go that route!

any info is appriciated. thanks agian for all your help!!

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:47 pm

Yes he needs special tools - there aren't really alignment marks -
you have to rotate to the right position and then the special tools lock the cams/crank in position so you can pull things apart and put them back together.

Sir Sam had the manual on a server - but it died

robrub00 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:54 pm

ok got the Manual. my machanic is thinking he is going to have to send me to jeep to deal with it. i was hoping to avaid dealing with them!!!!this has been a real headache of a purchase! to make matters worse i had the rear driver window regulator go out! and on top of that i got a call from the guy i bought it from saying that i he got a camera speeding ticket from when i was driving it back to california! $185 ouch!

barnez224 · **Joined:** Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:28 am **Posts:** 130

Omg I just had this exact situation happen to me. I got in a huge battle with Chrysler and the dealer and nobody ever did own up for their mistake. After 4 weeks and $1150 later, I finally get it back tomorrow. Here's the story... Had the glow plug light and took it in for service. Plug #2 was bad so they tried to remove it. The original quote was $350. When they went to pull the plug, it broke off down inside the engine. Obviously, since they broke it they should pay for it, right? Wrong. Chrysler said that I need to go after the dealer. OK fine. Dealer said that the part was seized and they weren't responsible because the parts were designed with steel mating with aluminum and this caused the seizure. I even went as high as the owner of the dealership to argue that the technician is actually the one who broke the plug, but since they "didn't cause the seizure", they weren't liable. The rig only has 56k so I said OK let's call Chrysler because this sounds like a design flaw. After numerous calls to customer reps and even a conference calls with the dealer, it was determined that "these things happen" and they denied my claim. So essentially they stuck the customer with a bill that was not caused by the customer whatsoever. Customer service at it's best. And if you're wondering where the $1150 bill came from, it's because the dealer had to pull the cylinder head and tap the port to get the broken plug out. Sorry for the rant, but as a friendly word of warning, prepared to be screwed.

robrub00 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 02, 2009 1:04 am

so i got a call from m y mechanic. he dosent have to tools need ed to pull the head. he is sugesting that if there is damage the damage is already done so he is going to change the plugs( had to tap the hole and is putting it back together and hoping for the best. when he got to plug number 4 he found that it was also blown. it was the one that was showing up on the code it was throwing so we think i drove it from texas to california like that and it survived so hopefully i will have the same luck with the number 2 cylinder also. he had to run the tap down the #4 plug hole also. he should have it back together tommarow. so hopefully ill be ok!!!
what do i need to look into as far as glo plug controller. what does it look like? is it a hardware or software issue that needs to be fixed??

Much thanks to Kieth at GDE for all his help!!! great customer service and i havent even got the Tune yet!!

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:12 pm

Rob,

Since you board in Tahoe I assume you're in the Bay Area? If you need a dealer, Boardwalk in Redwood City has a CRD-trained tech and they've done some work for me (EGR replacement under warranty). They're not cheap but they have the tools and can get parts.

calling all crd owners!

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