Sentry Key Immobilization System reset

abhester3 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:57 am **Posts:** 39

I'm ready to send my ECU off the GDE for reflash and thought I'd be clever and run a spare ECU in the meantime. Silly wabbit, that triggered the $#*^%@#% Sentry Key Immobilization System! Put the original back in but the red light stays on so now this lovely Jeep is dead in the water again... Tried disconnecting the battery but the light stays on, no start, no fuel pump, nothing. I'm beginning to think this was all a bit mistake.

Any experience out there with this?

mackruss · **Posted:** Sun Oct 04, 2009 2:57 pm

Dealer needs to reprogram your ECU with your VIN number

I'm not sure if you can do this with an aftermarket scanner.

flman · **Posted:** Sun Oct 04, 2009 4:37 pm

That really sucks, now you have to pay the dealer and GDE :!:

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 04, 2009 4:42 pm

If you replace the original ECU in the vehicle and leave the vehicle with the key off for some time (about 5 minutes), the fault for the immobilizer should be stored instead of active. However, you might need to clear the code (any generic scanner should do) before it will release the injection to start the car. You don't need to reprogram the VIN into the ECU.

abhester3 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:57 am **Posts:** 39

Let it sit overnight w/ no luck. Let it sit w/ key in it but 'off', no luck. I'll pick up a code reader tomorrow and try clearing codes. If that won't do it I'be back to the dealer.

I'd hate that as out last parting was anything but cordial after the air leak in fuel system run-around. They wanted $875 to replace the fuel lines at the tank and the, get this, "PUMP MODULE" that, of course, has no pump. I declined repairs and ransomed my vehicle for $109 as they suddenly discovered the extended warranty doesn't cover the 'fuel system' despite our mutual agreement that was the issue, the know-it-all service manager denying any and all conversation about the fuel system and warranty...

So what happenes when the ECU comes back from GDE, will the SKIS do the same again? Or was installing the alien ECU my mistake?

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Oct 04, 2009 8:47 pm

GDE will be happy to program the "alien" ECU with your engine's SKREEM coding, so that the CRD accepts it as it's own. I had a similar situation, I just sent them the one that wasn't programmed for the car.

You also will need to provide them with the VIN number, and the 6-digit codes from the top of each of the injectors. Contrary to popular belief, the injector codes can make a huge difference in the performance of the car. If the codes don't match what the ECU thinks they are, the CRD may be hard to start and will get LOUSY mileage.

I swapped my ECUs out and discovered the SKREEM mismatch before I sent it, but I didn't have any problems like you are experiencing. On mine, the engine started, ran for about 2 seconds, and was shut down by the ECU... And the car acted like a spoiled brat refusing to start until I returned it's own ECU to it. Then it started right up and ran fine. I'm confused why yours isn't behaving in a similar manner, sounds like you did the same basic thing I did.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 04, 2009 9:01 pm

Send your spare ECU to GDE with your VIN and injector codes as previously noted. Reinstall OEM ECU and use a scanner as Mr. Mopar suggested.

Sorry you did not know that any post-1999 vehicle will not permit "any" ECU (from a similar vehicle) to be swapped in.

DOC

flman · **Posted:** Sun Oct 04, 2009 9:13 pm

I would think GDE should be able to fix this, they are able to do ECM swaps for people that can not have any down time. Just like the last poster said, give Keith a call at GDE and ask if he can help you with out going to the dreaded dealer. Better, yet, for an extra $50, he can send you one programmed to your engine, and if all goes well, send him your spare on in.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 04, 2009 9:41 pm

MrMopar64 wrote:

If you replace the original ECU in the vehicle and leave the vehicle with the key off for some time (about 5 minutes), the fault for the immobilizer should be stored instead of active. However, you might need to clear the code (any generic scanner should do) before it will release the injection to start the car. You don't need to reprogram the VIN into the ECU.

Yes you do if you have some sort of OEM alarm system.You also have to have all the proper programming installed also since many of the luxury items like cruise control and suck needs a program to work correctly.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Sun Oct 04, 2009 10:09 pm

The injector numbers are needed since the ecm needs the trim files that go to each injector. Due to manufacturing tolerances, each injector is going to have it's own unique spray pattern as well as amount. Thats the basics of it....

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Oct 05, 2009 5:56 am

There should be a sticker with bar codes and actual chacters from from the injectors codes on the timing belt cover :wink:

You should verify they are correct for your injectors but my sticker photographed very well and could possibly avoid any miscommunications on the 6 digit per injector codes

abhester3 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:57 am **Posts:** 39

Got the 'spare' ECU sent to GDE and emailed images of the VIN and injector code sticker on the timing-belt cover, I just hope I can get it running before it gets back!

With very few exceptions it sounds like everyone really likes GDE and, with the new pump, I'm looking forward to driving this vehicle without pumping the primer halfway down my drive every morning...

Didn't make it to civilization to buy an OBD reader though, maybe tomorrow, but I am leaving it with the battery unhooked tonight. Any suggestions as to which OBD to look for (or avoid!) at the local Autozone, Pep Boys, Wally world, etc?

Nope, sure didn't know about post '99 cars and swapping ECUs, rebuilt a flooded salvage '01 mercedes a few years ago and swapped plenty of electronics, just removed the theft system even, and everything works fine but the ECU is the same...

Thanks for all the information and this great site.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Oct 05, 2009 10:39 pm

abhester3 wrote:

Got the 'spare' ECU sent to GDE and emailed images of the VIN and injector code sticker on the timing-belt cover, I just hope I can get it running before it gets back!

With very few exceptions it sounds like everyone really likes GDE and, with the new pump, I'm looking forward to driving this vehicle without pumping the primer halfway down my drive every morning...

Didn't make it to civilization to buy an OBD reader though, maybe tomorrow, but I am leaving it with the battery unhooked tonight. Any suggestions as to which OBD to look for (or avoid!) at the local Autozone, Pep Boys, Wally world, etc?

Nope, sure didn't know about post '99 cars and swapping ECUs, rebuilt a flooded salvage '01 mercedes a few years ago and swapped plenty of electronics, just removed the theft system even, and everything works fine but the ECU is the same...

Thanks for all the information and this great site.

I've switched around lots of ECU's on 99-01 Cherokees with no problems.

moto-scoot · **Posted:** Tue Oct 06, 2009 12:37 am

manual states to leave key on for 1.5hours to override lockout
but without scan tool you may be xxxx in the wind.....

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Oct 06, 2009 8:02 am

abhester3 wrote:

Any suggestions as to which OBD to look for (or avoid!) at the local Autozone, Pep Boys, Wally world, etc?

Get one that will work with your other vehicles while your at it.

I have a VAG-COM for my previous VW's that works perfectly on the CRD and other cars in it's OBDii mode

abhester3 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 18, 2009 7:57 am **Posts:** 39

Learned today what the no-start condition was, a real surprise.

It seems the A/C lines had chaffed through the wire bundle at the forward control module, just a freak coincidence that it happened as I fooled with the ECUs, maybe I jostled the wires with that enough, who knows... This resulted in a blown fuse and limited communication between the ECU and various sensors, I'd found a bunch of codes (P2295, P0091, P2141, P0489, P0047, P1215, P0670, P0562) that wouldn't clear but thought they were all related to the low battery condition after the cranking, letting it sit w/ the key on, etc, things that had been suggested here and elsewhere...

Talk about freaky coincidence. And that FCM wire bundle might be something for everyone to look at, add some loom, tape or something.

Thanks for all the help, can't wait to get the GDE flashed ECM back!

flman · **Posted:** Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:38 pm

Well I will be sure to check my wiring as well, those CRDs are packed in their a little tight, on my Freightliner, it is something I have to check yearly is wire rubs on the frame, I split hose and put in on the frame for certain areas.

RabidRdKill · **Posted:** Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:23 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

I've switched around lots of ECU's on 99-01 Cherokees with no problems.

Sam, SKIM wasn't standard on the XJs. That would likely explain your luck in that department.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Oct 09, 2009 4:24 pm

RabidRdKill wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

I've switched around lots of ECU's on 99-01 Cherokees with no problems.

Sam, SKIM wasn't standard on the XJs. That would likely explain your luck in that department.

Yes, but even then it is my understanding that the XJ PCM doesn't care which SKIM it is attached to, for example you can exchange SKIm enabled PCMs between vehicles with SKIM's. As long as you keep the SKIM and the matching key.

Likewise, don't ever throw a non SKIM PCM into a SKIM vehicle and expect it to work again in a non SKIM vehicle, when you plug in a non skim ECU it will activate the SKIM circuit in the ECU.

My comment was more address to DOC4444 comment that "all" 1999 and up ECU's cannot just be switched around.

Sentry Key Immobilization System reset

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