Fuel Saving Module

jmoomaw · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2009 1:51 pm

I am looking for a module to purchase that will allow me to adjust the power for both fuel savings and hauling. Tried the search but came up with nothing.

Thanks.
Jim

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2009 4:24 pm

Most of the modules just increase boost pressure and/or rail pressure resulting in more fuel being delivered through the injectors.
Since the Cetaine rating of the fuel we have in North America is not up to the Euro standard of 55 Cetaine (we put up with 40-45 Cetaine), the only way we have to compensate for this crap is to advance the timing. Chip tuners like GDE and to some extent Imotion advance the timing by remapping the ECM. One member (vegiH?) used a 2K resistor to advance timing, but I do not remember where he put it.
If you want better mileage do the ORM to shut off the EGR and increase your tire pressure. Stock 225 75 R16 tires should be increased to 40-42 PSI. I run my LT 215-85-R16 tires at 45 PSI. Also figure out your odometer error and adjust your calculations accordingly.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2009 9:01 pm

I still have an Edge Trailjammer for sale, $175 shipped. Has a three position switch for "better than stock" "Economy" and "super-grin power" modes.

danoid · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2009 8:30 am

GDE eco-tune / load range E tires pumped to 65 psi. Rides like a brick unloaded, but gets good fuel economy, tows like a little champ.

gsbrockman · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2009 10:07 am

danoid wrote:

load range E tires pumped to 65 psi

What size ?

Out of curiosity....does the additional weight of almost any LRE tire (due to the additional materials & guts to achieve the carrying capacity) negate much of an increase in fuel economy, or does the increased (I assume) overall diameter make that huge of a difference ?

Greg

BCool · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2009 11:57 am

I had my E rated Toyo tires inflated to 45-50 and the centers started to wear way to fast, you might want to keep an eye on that. Now I'm down to 35-40.

danoid · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2009 12:11 pm

225/75R16 Michelin XPS Rib. They are summer only (you can lose traction in wet grass) and have a continuous rib of rubber around the circumference of the tire. I think (there are a number of summer vs. winter fuel economy differences) they get me 2 miles per gallon vs. my knobby Goodyear Wrangler MT/R's. (The Wranglers probably make 1 mpg of just noise, but they are king in snow and ice.)

I haven't noticed any uneven wear, these tires are very square. If I park on a subdivision curb (the kind they don't make cuts for the driveway) I can see daylight under a portion of the tread.

jmoomaw · **Posted:** Sat Oct 24, 2009 8:07 am

what I want to accomplish is to cut down the fuel air ratio because the HHO adds extra power that I do not need most of the time. With HHO the MAP sensor reads an increase in air and will dump more fuel into the system. I want to cut down the fuel under normal driving systems. Will the power module accomplish that?

I have read several other threads that I found thru a google search. The short of what I found is that the modules generally use more fuel to increase power so I would end up using more fuel for the pleasure of power.

Shame on me...last night I went from 35 mph to 80mph passing a line of cars stuck behind one guy taking a very slow joy ride with 20 cars behind him. I was surprised how well the CRD accelerated. Wish I had counted the acceleration time. The worst of it was the guy caught me at the next stop light a mile further!!!!

jmoomaw · **Posted:** Sat Oct 24, 2009 8:12 am

geordi wrote:

I have an Edge Trailjammer. Has a three position switch for "better than stock" "Economy" and "super-grin power" modes.

geordi, do you know how the economy works? Is it just a matter of me regulating my foot better while the module does a better job of managing the fuel/air/boost pressure?

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Sat Oct 24, 2009 10:42 am

Turbo Tim says: "Always Pass!"

The module fools the computer by lying to it about the fuel pressure. It does not mess with the MAP values.

So for economy it would report a "Higher" fuel pressure than what is really there so actually you would be using "less" fuel.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Oct 24, 2009 11:19 am

Turbo Tim wrote:

Turbo Tim says: "Always Pass!"

The module fools the computer by lying to it about the fuel pressure. It does not mess with the MAP values.

So for economy it would report a "Higher" fuel pressure than what is really there so actually you would be using "less" fuel.

Advancing the timing to compensate for lousy Cetaine would increase both fuel economy and power output.
Chip tuners like GDE and Inmotion do this in their chip tune, other chip tuners may do it as well.
Module lie to the ECM.

jmoomaw · **Posted:** Sat Oct 24, 2009 7:31 pm

It would be good to be able to fool the ECM into thinking it needs less fuel (at least when I don't want the power).

Thanks guys.

CRDMiller · **Posted:** Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:01 pm

Cut a piece of 2x4 and place under go pedal. shim to desired height. Lag into floorboard/floor mat.

Instant "fuel conserving module"

RJM · **Posted:** Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:30 pm

More skinny pedal = more fuel, less skinny pedal = less fuel. If you really need a module tape an empty box under the hood for a placebo effect and save yourself a few bucks.

yakers · **Posted:** Sun Oct 25, 2009 10:32 pm

One of the nice things GDE offered to do in a module for me is to have more economy in OD but more power in 3rd (OD off) for towing. Makes sense to me. While I like to save on fuel sometimes I want more power for towing or accelerating and am willing to use fuel for that. I am not unhappy with the design of the CRD and its normal fuel consumption. I am wary of increasing (F37 restoring?) power with the original transmission. Fix the TC and jack up the power

Seems like a good way to go.

vegiH · **Posted:** Sun Oct 25, 2009 11:11 pm

I have the trail jammer,and it is a 2K resistor inside the tuner that advances the timing for complete fuel burn,more fuel burn=less waste and emissions and better MPG.I also use lucas fuel treatment (in the clear container),and powerservice (grey in summer,white in winter).I do have a light foot(alot of years paying my own fuel driving commercial truck),and drive a steady speed (62 on hi-way),hand calculated best to date 32.1 MPG all highway on WVO(which has less BTUs then #2 per gallon......its doable you just have to source what works for you,and assemble you own "kit" from what is available in the market place.PS free flowing exhaust helps too.............H

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Oct 26, 2009 8:52 am

vegiH wrote:

I have the trail jammer,and it is a 2K resistor inside the tuner that advances the timing for complete fuel burn,more fuel burn=less waste and emissions and better MPG.I also use lucas fuel treatment (in the clear container),and powerservice (grey in summer,white in winter).I do have a light foot(alot of years paying my own fuel driving commercial truck),and drive a steady speed (62 on hi-way),hand calculated best to date 32.1 MPG all highway on WVO(which has less BTUs then #2 per gallon......its doable you just have to source what works for you,and assemble you own "kit" from what is available in the market place.PS free flowing exhaust helps too.............H

Just would like to know.

vegiH · **Posted:** Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:33 am

It appears to be a "FOOLER",and seems to be attached to ECM as a remapped fuel curve(increased rail pressure verified).I am not sure of other circuitry in there maybe a fail-safe or cut-out circut if CEL illuminated from adjusted power.Same thoery as ECU mod on powerstroke ford(10K resistor),you CAN do it yourself,but risk ECM damage.For what its worth I paid $450 for my trailjammer(on sale),so the $175 is a steal,and If I didn't already have one it would be shipping to my house as I type this.I feel that this is a good mod,even with SEGR,I can still leave it on low setting and get a lil more HP and TQ,with alot more MPG.....just my .02.............H

Fuel Saving Module

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