Question for the Archery Buffs

callaway · **Posted:** Wed Nov 25, 2009 3:16 pm

I want to get my dad a bow for Christmas, but I know nothing about archery.

He'd be using it for casual target shooting with friends and maybe the occasional bow hunt.

Are there any good brands/kinds of bows/things to look for when buying a bow ?

I'd like to get him something nice ( not a cheap piece of crap ) so any guidance would be greatly appreciated

Landy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 26, 2009 3:57 am

Lot's of opinions I'm sure, kinda like what rifle is better, a Remington, Winchester, Ruger, Weatherby, etc. But, you're in luck because I'll give you my humble Archery opinion.

I have been shooting PSE equipment for 20 years. I paid about $225.00 for my first PSE and $360.00 for my second one. Decent quality but there are better more expensive bows available. I shoot a PSE Carroll 3-D model meaning all cables. I've had that one for a long time. It's about a $500.00 bow. I also bought my daughter a PSE.

Martin is good stuff but I've always thought they felt a little heavy at the end of the day. Hoyt is a good brand. I've shot some Oregon Bows that were pretty sweet. Bowtech has some good offerings. A lot of my hunt'n buddies have these brands and I don't hear much whiney stuff from them about their gear.

Do you need a machined riser? More bucks. Will a cast riser suffice? They don't come with sights or arrow rests...he'll prolly want to buy his own anyway.

If you are considering a tighter budget, consider a Bear.

Does he hunt from a tree stand? If so, maybe consider buying a little bit shorter bow.

Don't forget the arrows, those suckers are not free either. Then, there are the points and the broadheads.

He'll need a range finder... Got camo gear? See, lots of presents can be added on in the future.

callaway · **Posted:** Thu Nov 26, 2009 12:31 pm

Thanks for the info Landy !

Would you get a bow by itself then and upgrade or go for a package w/accessories ?

JMSMN · **Posted:** Thu Nov 26, 2009 1:09 pm

I would deffinately but a package right off the bat. Easiest and cheapest way to get going. You can always upgrade later. I know a gut that wholesales up in pennslyvania, just about everything you could want. Just PM me if you want his number. Just mention my name if you order from him and then next time i order i get a discount also. :twisted:

Landy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 26, 2009 1:54 pm

I totally agree now that I see what you're thinking with a package from Cabela's. Unless there is some existing knowledge on what sights or other accessories you already want, then get a package and you're basically off and shooting. Lot's of theory on arrows and fletch choices out there. Have a good chat with your Archery Pro Shop guy if you have one. Even more discussion to be had LATER on broadhead choices just like the caliber of a rifle. Then, put that together with fletch choice, arrow choice, blah, blah. The Browning will shoot any arrow, you will find in the end it will have some it likes better than others. Some will shoot faster and straighter than others. A Pro shop will have a bunch you can try as long as you buy a dozen from him.

I will offer my opinion on draw weight choices, go with the heavier choice listed on the Browning bow in the link you pasted. Personally, I wouldn't shoot a Deer with less than a 55lb set draw weight, much less an Elk. I have mine set at 70lbs. Unless you've shot alot, you won't pick up a bow set at 70 and just draw it back unless you're pretty stout to begin with. It comes with time starting at 50 and working up. Lots of re-adjusting your sights too.

JMSMN · **Posted:** Thu Nov 26, 2009 2:03 pm

^^^^Have to agree.^^^^
I would say the most important thing on an arrow is the spine of it, or the rigitity of the shaft. I shoot a Diamond Marquis, bought as a package. 675$ shipped to my door from my guy. That was when they were just out. My arrow weight is 500 grains overall. Which is pretty heavy, but I shoot 71lbs, and I get that arrow to 270fps. Do alot of reading, than some more reading. There are so many bows out there right now, solo cams, cam and a half, dual cams. A lot of fun after you get into it.

callaway · **Posted:** Thu Nov 26, 2009 3:09 pm

Is adjusting the draw weight something you do yourself or do you need to go to a shop and have that done ?

I'm going to head out to Cabela 's on Saturday and talk to the people there - closest one is a good 1.5 hrs away ( there's a Galyan's down the street but I'm not sure I want to trust the opinions of the underpaid teens working there ). Don't think there's an archery store around...

Is there any advantage to getting a bow with dual cams/pulleys vs a single ?

Really really stupid question...

Is 'right hand bow' is a bow you hold with your right hand and pull with your left ( meaning you're a lefty ), or does a 'right hand bow' mean you hold with your left and your right ( meaning your a righty ) ? :oops:

JMSMN · **Posted:** Thu Nov 26, 2009 3:25 pm

Absolutely no stupid questions. With that said, A right hand bow is one that you hold with your left hand and draw it back with your right hand, and vice versa. Dont go to gallyons, used to have them in the cities here and dont know what they are talking about. Go to a place with a good archery dept. Cabelas is good to go to talk to, but overpriced. Go there, find out which bow fits for lbs. of draw and the legnth you need. Then thanj them and find a good deal online. Many deals out there, just have to shop around. Figure whether you are going to shoot with a release, they should ask you that. Bows are adjustable to say 10 to 15 lbs, by turning the limbs down a little bit in the limb pockets. If you are new to this you should have a pro shop do this for you. Some bows have adjustable draw legnths also without the need for a bow press. All options to be concidered. Good luck.

Landy · **Posted:** Thu Nov 26, 2009 11:32 pm

Yep. What he said. :wink:

Personally, I can't imagine shooting without a release. I tried it and it really hurt my fingers, I cannot do it. The shorter the bow limbs, the greater the pinch on the fingers too. Not to mention, if you have to hold at full draw for any length of time and you've got it cranked up to 65 or 70lbs. I had to hold two full minutes at full draw one time while a Bull Elk stood there and looked at me. I drew when he walked his eyes behind the tree and then he just stood there with his boiler room behind the tree. I always wondered what would have happened if I'd tried to shoot him right between the eyes. I feared only wounding him, hitting him in the end of the snout or something and he'd run off and die miserably because he couldn't eat so I didn't. He was a 5x5 satallite bull, kind of a rag horn anyway.

A mechanical release, that's another $50.00 - $75.00 bucks, -I haven't bought a new one in 20 years or priced them...

I still shoot aluminum arrows with an overdraw shelf. 2215's. It's been a long time, but I think the first numbers are the spline diameter and the second set is the wall thickness?

My bud uses graphite arrows. I can tell you this much, he shoots a decent Martin bow and he uses the ONE sight pin for 20 - 35 yards, another out to 50 and one other pin with graphite arrows. He says they shoot that flat.

With aluminum, I'm chronographed at about 250 and I have sight pins (cross hairs actually) for 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, and a 70. In all my years, I've just never taken the time or spent the money to try graphite.

Truly, there is quite a bit to arrow selection and dialing in the bow. Draw length will need to be measured and the bow set up for "him." We'll obviously be glad to offer help, but you really need a pro shop with a range to dial everything in.

Single cam, double cam. Lot's of theory there too. Personally, I have only ever owned a double cam set up so I can only speak to that experience. Launching the arrow accurately is all about dialed in equipment and released energy and your ability as the shooter to stand there and hold the cocked bow until you let 'er go.

Which is easier or best? I dunno.

callaway · **Posted:** Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:19 pm

Thanks for all the info and help guys - this past weekend went out to Cabelas and checked out what they had. I can see what you mean about Cabelas being over priced :shock:

Waaaaay more than I ever really expected things to be.

That being said though, from the stock the store had I really liked the PSE Brute - the package deal from Cabelas was $500 for that model, but I found a place online and got a package deal w/arrows/up'd sight, and whisker biscuit for $450 ( Plus bing.com and ebay every so often have cash back deals, and I got 10% back, so the whole thing really came out to $400

)

The bow's the 2010 model of the PSE Brute, 65lb draw weight, 29" draw length.

Should be here Thursday

What's the consensus on mechanical releases ? After the bow and a case I'm well over what I was intending to spend... are there any cheap but good releases ? Are they even really needed ?

JMSMN · **Posted:** Thu Dec 03, 2009 9:59 pm

I would say yes. Way easier on your fingers and also a way more concistant of a shot release. Meaning more accuracy. Bang for the buck cabellas brand releases are good for the money.

ekj · **Joined:** Tue Nov 03, 2009 3:55 pm **Posts:** 100

I hope you like reading: http://www.huntersfriend.com/bowselection.htm

Landy · **Posted:** Fri Dec 04, 2009 5:38 pm

Wow. What a neat page of archery info. Very cool.

I would totally recommend a release.

Question for the Archery Buffs

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