Thanks for the info. I'm planning to stick with my original decision to go with a selectable locker. Looks like that may be leave me with the ARB as my only option, since it looks like the OX locker isnt available for the 8.25. I'm ordering the Frankenlift in the next two weeks, then start saving for the next mod which very might well be a locker....or maybe a one of those fance new RL bumpers in the works.

For anyone that is considering the no-slip. Yes it will unlock in a turn under power. I've driven 3 KJ w/ the powertrax and they all do that and installed 2 myself. There is either something wrong with the1jferg's or I don't know. One easy way to test it is to take a turn in a parking lot. Stop in the middle and jack up the rear end. The inside tire should still be connected to the drive train and the outside one should spin free. If both tires where powered in a turn you would know it for sure. It would chirp the tires and have a very strong return to center effect.

It is not completely as silent and transparent as Powertrax says. But to me it is really not bad. When I first installed it I was expecting ALOT worst after reading a few posts by the1jferg. I was pleasantly surprised at how quite and well mannered it was. It will make a faint click that is audible at low speeds and occasionally make a good clunk, but I think for most users it is more than worth it. However, If you are looking for something that is as completely transparent as spider gears and you very senstive to noise and driveline slack then you need to look elsewhere.

Personally, I love my powertrax. I actually think I prefer it over a selectable locker even if money where not an issue. It locks up when I need it and unlocks when I don't. I don't have to worry about flipping a switch. Especially nice when wheeling on very grip surfaces (like moab). I don't have to worry about getting cross axled (opposite wheels off the ground) then backing up, engaging the locker or taking a different line. Then disengaging the locker as soon as I want to turn. Especially nice when wheeling on very grip surfaces (like moab slickrock). Plus it saves you about a grand vs an ARB.

Here is an excerpt from the manual on how it work. If you read more of the manual and not just one line quote you get a much better idea of how it works. Quite clever if you as me.

So you quoted something from the book too, So did I. An example of double talk

Probably is something wrong with my setup (me) but 4wheelparts, Richmond, I, or independents, can't find it.

Book says: "You may feel torque transfer from both rear wheels to one, and back again. Should you wish to minimize the effects of torque transfer, take turns under less throttle, and make throttle changes more gradually to allow for the smoothest possible operation."

The diff between your blurp and mine is the word throttle. Give old Johnny Brown a call, He will tell you whatever double talk you want to here.

Eddo said: "It is not completely as silent and transparent as Powertrax says"

An example of more Richmond double talk!!

Eddo, this is an invalid test once you take your foot off the gas man....

Eddo test: "One easy way to test it is to take a turn in a parking lot. Stop in the middle and jack up the rear end. The inside tire should still be connected to the drive train and the outside one should spin free. If both tires where powered in a turn you would know it for sure."

What about the mud slinging donut test? What was your result? I feel confident you'll be slinging with both tires till you let off the gas.

In this post I'm not trying to talk anyone out of it.

I admitted I WAS such a hard driver, most of my problem was my fault. Hence the "gradual throttle changes" recommended in the above blurp.

Drive it like a grandpa on the "John Deere" that it is and one can be happy.

Its formidable and deserves respect.

Many years ago, I used to shoot pool with much zeal until an old fella told me to shoot pool like I was "Making Love" instead of "screwing". My game got Phenomenal. I just applied the same principles to my driving habits. A full force Warrior is my nature. Only Lance Armstrong could understand (Live Strong)

I can't even shovel sandbags unless I can out shovel your best 10 men, even if I break down like the "Tin Man" when the sun goes down. Freakin Cancer & Chemo makes you push life to the limit if you survive it. I mean, whats the worst that can happen, I die? ...Been there, done that.

I think Joe will love it. I think DaveKJ02 should let his wife decide.

Powertrax is the cheapest solution, but don't take that to mean that the product is cheap. they are very well built and rarely do you hear anyone complain about them. I've never heard about a craftsmanship complaint, usually just noise, which is fixed with heavier gear oil or a louder stereo. IMO, if noise is a concern, you shouldn't be thinking about a locker in the first place! it's fine on the road as long as you realize that it's there. If you gave a locked vehicle to someone who had just gotten their license and who had no idea what a locker was, it could get ugly. Otherwise, they're fine.

Limited slips are more expensive and wear out, unless it's the gear driven kind, which are pretty cool, but still more expensive and you have to replace the diff case and have someone setup the gears for you. That just equals tonz of $$$

Here are some pics of a no-slip for a D30 that my friend bought used. Very well made machine!!

the guy shipped it in the case. He had it for a few thousand miles and then decided to upgrade axles!!


Here's me taking the cross shaft lock pin out


Cross pin out


One driver out


The two sides. Notice the active spacer in the center which makes the no-slip unlock for a full rotation of the axleshaft whenever the torque transfer shifts. This is what makes the no-slip operate smoother and have less noise than the lock-rite


I'm rotating the active spacer in this pic, although you can't really tell


The two halves, you can see how the cross shaft makes the active spacer move, which keeps the drivers from locking for a full rotation.


And, those are the pictures of the no-slip. Best traction modification (less a detroit/ARB/OX) that money can buy, and a whole lot cheaper than the alternatives. Well built, and you won't notice it that much on the road.

I have a 27 spline 8.25 so I have a lock-rite, made by the same company, but it doesn't have the active spacer. It's the only one available for the 27 spline, and I like it. It's not as fancy and well mannered as the no-slip, but the difference is barely noticable when driving. You guys are lucky that you all have the 29 spline 8.25s in the KJs!!!

_________________
Civilisation exists by geological consent, subject to change without notice. -Durant

Ferg, your axle may be a semi floater (i have seen semi floats with and without c-clips but it could be a full floater).

I don't think the noslip will be aggressive enough for me...I have driven plenty of lockers and plenty of limited slips. My first 4x4 was a 1983 AMC Eagle SX/4 that I spray painted flat black and did a body lift to fit 30" Mud Terrains on it. Then I took it to metal shop at the high school and weld the front AND rear. It is amazing (read stupid or scary) what a high school kid will do on a budget...

I am going to just save my money and get a real locker (no offense but I want a Detroit or ARB).

I spoke with Superlift and their 4 inch lift is coming out sometime in August. I should be done with training right around then and I will have bonus money and other savings to buy some really trick stuff.

Ferg-were you a snake-eater (LRRP or Ranger)? I saw an old post involving Camp Rudder...If so then you my friend are indeed a bad @$$!!!

_________________
'02 KJ Sport V6 4x4
3/8" Clevis lift
Rusty's 2.5 lift
255/70/R16 Fleet Farm All Terrain (yes they work)
Class 3 hitch
Hellas
Police Scanner/CB radio
LOST #: JH061986

Alright here is my best shot at an explanation. Not sure if it is ever worth a try because you have convinced yourself else wise, but I'll give it a shot for you and for everyone else out there. Actually it is quite obvious on why it does what it does if you understand how it works.

When the cross shaft inside the carrier starts to spin it exerts a sideways force on the couplers to push them into the side gears. This is what keeps them held together and also torque transfer to the wheels. If you notice the two couplers have a slight saddle that the cross shaft goes in between. Imagine the extreme example as a wedge cross shaft fit in. Now you should be able to see that when the cross shaft rotates how it push the coupler into the side gears.

Now when you take a turn. Just as the manual mentions the outside wheel starts to accelerate ahead of the inside wheel. This is done by the pavement due to the difference in turing circles. Try to visualize everything in your head, this is what helps me. With the outside wheel being effectively accelerated by the pavement past the inside wheel you take pressure off the cross shaft because one side is now moving slightly faster than the other. This is probably the hardest concept to visualize, so if you get this then you are more halfway there. Now with out this pressure from the cross shaft the coupler is no longer being pressed into the side gear and now the dog teeth disengage. That is how it disengages in a turn.

As far as you donut/mud turning example. Well the outside wheel does not accelerate ahead of the inside wheel. If it does not accelerate ahead of the inside wheel no pressue will be taken off the cross shaft. Without the pressure being removed, the coupler is still being pushed into the side gear and will not seperate.

There are 2 reasons why on low traction surfaces one wheel will not accelerate past the other. First there is simply not enough traction to physically accelerate it past the other wheel. On street the actual pavement accelerates (pushs it faster) than outside wheel, due to the difference in turning circles of the two wheel. Something other than the drivetrain needs to acclerate one wheel past the other in order for the pressue to be removed off the cross shaft. Second if you are in low traction surface you usually have wheel spin. With wheel spin no wheel really gets a chance to accelerate ahead of the other.

Think of this example. The inside wheel starts to spins (not all of the spin transferred to vehicle motion). The outside wheel (or whatever wheel you want now) is moving at a slower rate than the powered wheel (probably because it is not moving at all). This allows the cross shaft to put pressure on the coupler and press them into the side gears. Now both of them are locker up again ready to proved traction. If enough traction become available to acclerate one wheel ahead of the other they will seperate again.

Actually it is a vaild test if you understand how the unit works.

Eddo, I understand.

XJMA said: "If you gave a locked vehicle to someone who had just gotten their license and who had no idea what a locker was, it could get ugly."

I did not deserve a license. I'm tellin you, the no-slip was a revelation as to my driving habits.


Joe,

Yes its a semi-float bolt in according to Seth at ARB. I'm stupid U ME ing this ain't too common on new vehicles?

I met the "Wizard" ! LRRP or Ranger ain't the only ones who can get the Ranger Shoulder patch. "bad @$$!!!" Not really, Some years later, compression fractures of a few L-vertebrae changed my game. The Bad still send me Christmas cards though.


I think you'll like any locker