Ok i plugged in MAF right after heading to dealer and check engine light was on. They wouldnt be stupid enough to just pull codes would they? The leak is pretty good one i guessed rear main seal. Is the tube for egr located in spot that could have oil in it?


http://img687.imageshack.us/i/61700977.jpg/

The egr tube goes around the rear of the cylinder head above the bellhousing. There shouldn't be oil in it though. Also in that area are both to and from oil lines for the turbo and they have been know to leak. Obiviously you should have planned ahead and let the cel clear before taking it in Having a cell just confuses the issue

Definetly locate the source of the oil leak before you run dry on oil then you'll have big $$ problems

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

There are known problems with EGR pipes failing (but this is usually at the weld of the flange that is clamped to the exhaust mainifold. If your seal is gone on the EGR valve side of the pipe you wold probably notice some increased noise on that side of the engine when revving. I suppose that it is possible that oil could ooze from that location if you were not running a Provent and oil had built up in the lower turbo hose over the years - but that's the only way I can see it happening.

He say's they used stethiscope, traced the oil from CAC hose down to lowest point EGR and thats where the leak is. Would running the jeep hard up hills with egr working help move everthing out there and seal it up? Would a better use of my time to install provent?

Well it sounds like the damage is already done. I guess you'll need to change the gasket on the EGR. After that, to stop it from happening again, install the Provent. You'll probably need to replace your turbo hoses if there was enough stuff in there to impact the EGR sealing the lower hose is probably saturated. You probably also have oil in your intercooler.

Steps to consider:

1. Replace the seal (or does it just need to have the bolts torqued up)?
2. Install the Provent.
3. Remove and inspect both the CAC hoses, preference is probably to replace with Samcos, but if still servicable you might be able to clean them out and use them for awhile.
4. If your able to afford the time and $, get the intercooler cleaned out.
5. Remove and clean your Boost Control Sensor (aka MAP). It's likely gunked up with oil/soot combo. It's located on the top back of the engine head under the wiring loom - has a blue lable on top of it). See the various postings on the cleaning procedure.

After these steps you should be OK on the intake tract side of the engine. You will still have gunk in your intake manifold but this will probably disapate to some degree over time.

???????? a stethiscope (or stethoscope) is to listen - they heard oil dripping???????

if it's coming from the CAC hoses - odds are it's oil from the crankcase vent blowing into the CAC hoses and they're about to fail - they do that when they're oil saturated.

if that's the case - then you need new hoses and either a EHM or Provent to stop the oil from getting into the hoses.

- you should ask to see the tube seal and how they figured it's leaking - as Glend points out - it may be leaking exhaust - but it's not leaking oil

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

He probably means an endoscope. I still have no clue what an oil leak has to do with the EGR.

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Cherokee 2,5 CRD: sold - Wrangler TJ 2.5: gone - Touareg V10 TDI: new toy

Solo Liberty en Español: Jeepliberty.es

Our KJs have shown oil seeping back through the EGR tubes and down the left rear side of block. It is very slow leakage and tends to be one of the reasons EGR valves tend to stick over time. If you look at where the EGR tube enters the intake manifold you will notice it enters from the bottom. This is a design flaw, the EGR should have entered the intake from the side so oil would not leak back down the tube. That tube tends to get lots of build-up in the bend over time. The EGR has steel gaskets on one side and then a crush seal on the other. Try spraying brake cleaner around the EGR valve to clean the area and tighten the bolts that hold the tubes to the EGR. After a few days of driving you should be able to tell exactly where the seepage is coming from.

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I would think there has to be a inexpensive way to make one. Rockauto? Are there any trucks that come standard with provent so i could order.

Search button, top right corner, type in Provent or CCV filter, you will find an plethora of information.

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION

I just went through this little issue. At first glance I thought that I had a leaky rear main seal... Took a little time this weekend to see where the drip or two-a-night (that really annoyed my wife!) was coming from. This is the culprit, this is actually the after the cleaning-re-sealing job.

Same port with the pipe off. Bolts are 10mm

Under the intake, opposite side of the pipe, mount with the pipe off. No photo (except in the bottom rh of the last pic,) but the connector is a bit of a booger to get back together in the limited space. Can't remember exactly what they are called, but it's a hose clamp with two double section inner metal pieces to squeeze the pipe to its mount. 7mm's on the clamp.

First pic is the EGR side cleaned off, second is the intake side cleaned:


EGR side mounting flange, recess closeup.


Cleaned the pipe and engine mounting surfaces well, found that someone used a little high temp RTV on the intake side, I used a thin coat on both sides, re-assembled and after a long weekend of city driving, my driveway is NEW spot free!

I looked in my parts fiche for a new seal on the egr side, but it is not shown... no matter, this quick repair seems to be ok and only took about 45 min.

Hope this helps!

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05 No F37!
GDE HOT
In-tank Lift Pump
Dynomax Super Turbo 2.5
EU TC
Hankook ATm's (245's)
Factory Crap Catcher Floor Mats

Sold 05/11.