Anyone in metro detroit recommend a good dealer that knows the CRD, I am dripping oil from the front main seal area on the front of the engine and blowing some oil out of the exhaust and smoke on accel. I need to take it to the dealer....So can any michiganders recommend a good dealer for the CRD. The truck had been sitting for about 5 days and last night it was about 5 degrees out. I started it and it sounded really mad. I drove it to the store and back and it was smoking like crazy and dripping oil from the front. I parked it in the garage and pulled off the skid plate and am not sure what happened other than the oil must have just frozen up or something. Last night i pulled the dipstick and it blew oil out under a little pressure. Dealer recommended please??? 2006 with 41K

If you've got oil out the exhaust, the front of the engine, and bad noises, I'm guessing that there is something major going on... the dealer would probably take you for a ride to look at it, let alone fix it...I could help diagnose it though...

You might consider talking to the Green Diesel guys as well, they seem to have a good collection of tools and parts and a great knowledge of the engine, they might be able to help you out in a pinch.

x2 on taking it to GDE. You are already super-close to them by just being in Michigan. Even if you had to get a trailer and drag the thing to them across half the state, they would be worth the effort over letting a stealership ANYWHERE near your engine.

Which makes more sense: Guys who are wrenching on the CRD to develop products specifically for it... Or someone who MAY have had a 90 minute video and a 20 question quiz 4 years ago, and nothing since?

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
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Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I thought I had done this too. I don't know if you have a provent or catch can installed on the between the CCV and turbo. If so, look and make sure you don't have any obstructions such as a chunk of ice frozen in the hose or a can of ice. It's been cold in MI the past week. I was greeted with -8 deg F last night when I got back from KY.

Last year, when I installed my Saiku catch can, I incorporated a plastic elbow intended for heater hose. It turns out that the elbow was defective in that it still had flashing on the inside from the molding process and wasn't open at all, so the crankcase couldn't vent. I lost oil out of front of the engine and it actually goes out the exhaust too. That got rectified, but I had the same thing happen again when the catch can was "plugged" due to having a solid chunk of ice in it. A fair amount of water vapor goes through the works when the weather is uber-cold it ends up staying in the can instead of making it through the intercooler and back into the intake. I lost quarts of oil in both instances and am lucky the engine didn't blow...it's been 20,000 miles since this happened last winter. I'm currently not running the catch can...though I did the EGR this weekend, so that will stop some of the gunk going through the engine.

The front main seal is located behind the timing belt cover, which itself is sealed. It would be a while before your oil loss was noticed if this was the case, and it won't be good for the timing belt either. The engine skid plus insulation seems as if it can hold 3 quarts. I never was able to determine from where all of the oil comes. It's as if it sprays out from somewhere. Most of mine was on the front and underside of the engine. Very little was spraying out of the CCV. Good luck. I hope this helps.

kdlewis1975 This is exactly what happened to me yesterday/today. You said you rectified the oil coming out of the front of the engine, HOW and what did it cost. Today MrMOPAR64 so gratiously came over to shed some light on what might have happend too. today I changed the oil and filter and am running the oil level a little low and the truck seems to be just fine tonight. I have driven it on the expresway and all around town trying to make it leak to no avail now . It did leak from the front seal area behind the front pully area this morning after I changed the oil for a little bit but that has stopped and its like it fixed itself for now. Right now its like it is ok except there still is a little oil (residual from last nights drama i think) barly dripping out of the tailpipe, but that has almost subsided, I think there is an accumulation in the tailpipe. I have put the elephant mod back to stock for the time being and it seams to be driving just fine as of an hour ago, i am seriously scratching my head as to what happened. I never had any oil coming out of my Elephant Mod hose last night though FYI and I dont think it froze over cause its toatally open with no catch-can. MrMopar64 said that getting the timing belt wet with oil is a bad thing and that it could break now as the oil will probably wreak it, so I am going to give Green Diesel a call tomorrow per Mopar64 thankful advice. kdlewis1975 who fixed your truck after the front leak incident?

I have the truck in the garage tonight and have to drive it tomorrow, I am very nervous about starting it in the cold now and wonder what the lowest viscosity oil I should put in it to hopefully prevent this again????

Well, the only fix done was alleviate whatever was causing the blockage. A local mechanic realized the plastic elbow wasn't open. I figured out that the catch can was frozen solid.

Other than removing the blockage, nothing else was done. I studied it a good bit and never saw oil coming from the timing belt cover. I've religiously monitored the oil level the past year and changed only very modestly over the 10K mile interval. The level stays pretty constant for 8000 miles and then seems to go down a little. I had to go to the car wash and hose off the top of engine...a little nerve-wracking given all of the electronics. I left the engine skid off for a while and eventually took it to an automated car wash with an under body spray. Because I haven't seen oil coming from the timing belt cover, I've went on the assumption that my front seal and timing belt are fine. I'm still not sure where all of the oil came from in my case. I can't imagine all of it coming out of the front seal and timing cover that quickly. It's still unclear to me how the oil gets in the exhaust.

It's been 20K since my episodes. The Jeep has ran fine, but the mpg has been down a bit. I think this is mostly due to a sticky EGR valve. I'd suspect that the cat my have had a nice coating of oil and sludge which I'd hope has burned off by now. I'm looking to open it up and change the timing belt this coming summer/fall.

Over on the TDI forum elephant hoses have been know to freeze up at very cold temperatures

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Mind did have a horizontal run along the frame rail with a dip in it so I guess there is the possibility for water to act like a plumbing pee-trap and freeze there. When I hook up the EHM again it will be a vertical drop with no horizontal runs then to prevent freeze over hopefully.

The dealer I take/took mine to is a chrysler/jeep/dodge dealer with a diesel tech on staff.

St. Clair Chrysler Jeep Dodge (810 329 2200?)
St Clair MI.

the work they have done for me includes

Fuel filter changes (90.00) 2 or 3 - Ive had no fuel issues so far
New glow plug (warranty)
New Turbo and hoses (warranty)
Waste Gate "stuff" (warranty)

Overall they are a pretty fair bunch. I request that the diesel tech do any work on my jeep when I bring it in. And he seems to be fairly knowlegable.

They are a Dealer however, so they are pricey, and they do things the "dealer way".

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2005 CRD Midnight Blue
GDE Tune
Moog Ball Joints
No Exhaust Brake

Winter Diesel Summer Diesel

1-800-PIK-A-BIZ
Everyone's toll free number and then some

Any dips can collect moisture/oil and freeze. When I ran mine, I slit the bottom of the hose in 4 places about an inch up so it's less likely to close shut. I also put 2 slits in the hose farther up where it comes out from under the engine cover, just in case it does clog. That way it'll still be able to breathe.

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2000 Dodge SLT 4x4 CTD Intense Blue, a few go fast goodys

2006 Limited CRD 4x4 Inferno Red, GDE ECO tune

Darn good idea!! I think I'll just take a small drill and poke a few holes in mine and my F250's. I had it running a stright shot down the engine and out right behind the LF wheel but my girl said that the fumes were bad when at a stop light so I ran it all the way out the back.. the fumes were just as bad with my f250 so that is ran out the back too. I have heard about the freeze up issue and have been keeping an eye on it but it still bugs me!

http://www.stealth-automotive.com/index.php?target=products&product_id=1372

THat is what most of the guys on powerstroke.org run, they swear buy it, they also say the 7.3L fords are very sensitive to CC pressure so that mod they use is very free flowing and still stops the vapor.. some of them have been running it for years without issue. I plan on getting two kits and useing it on both the jeep and the f250. They are a heck of a lot cheaper then the provent and they said the provent might even been to restrictive for the 7.3L anyway!

I'm going to drill some holes tomorrow!

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-05 Dark Khaki Limited CRD. GDE ECO tune. In-tank lift pump, Transgo doo doo kit, B&M trans cooler, replaced trans solenoid pack and filters, Newer Michelin tires, Timing belt with all related parts replaced at 110,000miles.

Hmm... Nice out-of-focus picture of a pressure can (probably full of steel wool) and very little actual info about the product.

I'm not dissing on this vendor specifically, but that kind of thing typically happens when the seller is offering $10 of parts and a good idea, for FAR in excess of the parts cost. Those sellers don't want people to know exactly what they will be getting, b/c they will be able to easily identify the components and KNOW what the real cost is.

Thats why OldNavy's machined aluminum puck for the VW TDI was such a great product. It was a completely custom piece, and people could see everything about it and know beforehand that they weren't getting some Harbor Freight airtank junk for $$$.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

All of the above is why I've left my CCV stock. Let the oil flow through...

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.

x2

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2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
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Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

I'm up in NE MI, and I also have the EHM. It goes across the top of the engine, then down on the driver's side into a 2L pop bottle with a bunch of holes in the top. I haven't had any problems yet (about 18 months this way) but I always worry that something will get plugged. I like the idea of putting holes further up the tube, right off the CCV puck, just to be safe. Maybe with a small (and very weak) piece of scotch tape over them to keep it from gradually making a mess under there.