newbie's first post.

TennesseeCRD · **Joined:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:01 am **Posts:** 181

Hi, New to everything here. Just bought my first jeep and it happens to be my first diesel as well. It is an '06 Liberty CRD. I have many questions but I'll start small for my own understanding and work my way up. What oil and filter are best. I've had boosted hot rods but never a turbo diesel. I've always used Royal Purple oil in engine and trans fluid. Can that be used in the CRD or is something else better?

Steve

linewarbr · **Posted:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 5:35 pm

Hey Tennessee, welcome to the forum. Hope you're not a Vols fan. . . (GEAUX TIGERS!! :ALONE:

)

Anyway, the opinions here run the gamut on oils and filters. For oil, make sure you use FULLY SYNTHETIC oil specifically rated for a diesel. I use Mobil 1 TurboDiesel Truck 5W-40, some use Shell Rotella-T synth 5W-40, some use the Mobil 1 0W-40. If I'm not mistaken, Royal Purple does not make a diesel-rated oil. (If they do, I've never seen it) Make sure the oil meets the specs listed in the owners manual. (If you have had trouble finding the manual, look in a little slot at the top of the open part of the glovebox. It's kind of hidden.)

For a filter, the consensus here pretty much is to stay away from Fram. I use either Wix or Purolator Pure One on my CRD. You may also want to invest in a Fumoto drain valve, this makes oil changes much easier than messing with the Allen-bolt drain plug. Fumoto valves can be purchased from www.lubricationspecialist.com , the owner is a LOST member.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 6:00 pm

Welcome

I joined last summer myself...first Jeep and first Diesel too. I love mine and hope you will to.

I am using shell RotellaT 5w40 oil and Napa Gold Filter(made by wix) this time. I may try the Pureone filter next change. I chose the Rotella bacause it was recomended by others here and was easy for me to get at a good price at wal-mart and other places. I have no objection to Mobile 1 but, its more expensive and the only place in town that has 0w40 or 5w40 is pep boys. the cashiers and manager are rude there so I won't unless no other place has what I need.

Royal Purple is great stuff but I don't know if a diesel oil is available. there are some here that use Amsoil too.

Fumoto valve is a good idea too. after I changed my oil I was glad I put one in. you will need a hex key socket bit to remove the drain plug. I can't remember the size, it was metric, maybe 10 or 12mm.

if you can't find your manual a pdf version can be downloaded. I have it if you can't find it I can email it.

KJ 119 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 6:20 pm

Welcome there TenneCRD,Great place for info on your diesel.

Been consistant on Mobil 0-40,1Qt.Lucas fully synthetic oil additive,and Pure One filter every 3500-5000 miles(depending on conditions) for over 44,000 miles now.Runs great.

:furious:

(I'm one of those guys that doesn't believe in a 10,000 mile oil change)........(Dang-it)

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 7:16 pm

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT :jester:

If you leave the copper washer off the drain plug the tapered part of the plug where the washer is supposed to be will distroy the last thread or two in the aluminum oil pan :dead:

Then when you take it out the next time you'll be here asking how to repair the oil pan :dizzy:

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 1:58 am

mikey1273 wrote:

Fumoto valve is a good idea too. after I changed my oil I was glad I put one in. you will need a hex key socket bit to remove the drain plug. I can't remember the size, it was metric, maybe 10 or 12mm.

It's 8mm.....

TennesseeCRD · **Joined:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:01 am **Posts:** 181

Thanks for the good info guys. It gives me a good place to start. What problems or maintenance issues should I be looking out for. I bought the CRD from a dealer that took it in on a new jeep purchace and I don't know any maintenance history. It was a one owner though per the carfax so that is one good thing. Yeah I gotta say that I am a Vols fan. I just hope they can stay out of jail long enough to get to the playoffs in BB.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 4:19 pm

Most maintenance "issues" can be solved with a few simple actions.

First things first, unplug the MAF sensor to disable the EGR and stop the flow of exhaust (read: soot) into the intake. Link here: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22631 It will cause a Check Engine Light, but it is a good temporary fix until you can make a decision on a GDE tune, other tune, or SEGR, which affect EGR recirculation. Soot in the intake of a diesel is BAD.

Next, install an Elephant Hose to stop oil mist flowing into your turbo and intake tract. Link here: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22703 The stock setup allows oil mist to flow into your intake (pre-turbo). Combine that oil with soot from the exhaust, (EGR) and you get sludge in the intake. It builds up, restricting the flow of air and affecting the MAP sensor reading, which is next.

Clean the MAP sensor with chlorine-free brake parts cleaner. Link here: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22630 Make sure you do not lose the small washer on the bolt.

So now, you've spent 30 minutes, and little to no money, and you will have a much more responsive and economical machine. Get out on the Interstate and run it hard to clear the cat of any soot buildup, and to enjoy the power. Now it's money time. . .

Order a test kit from Blackstone or another oil analysis lab, drain the oil and catch a sample to send off to find out about any possible abnormal engine wear. Refill with a quality 5W-40 SYNTHETIC diesel-rated oil (such as Mobil 1 Turbodiesel Truck or Shell Rotella T) and replace the oil filter with a quality filter such as Wix or Purolator Pure One. (Unless you have solid records from the previous owner/ dealer that indicate this is not necessary) Replace the drain plug with a Fumoto valve, this will make oil changes infinitely easier and prevent you from damaging the threads on the cast aluminum oil pan. (Link hhere: http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/ ... 5&p=Fumoto Greg with Lubrication Specialist is a LOST member)

After these simple things, the world is your oyster. Keep surfing LOST, and you will find a wealth of information about the various options for the GDE tune, SEGR, Provent, exhaust mods, lifts, etc. Most members have their mods in their signature line, if you have a question, PM them and 99/100 times you will get a positive, informative response. After about a month or so of regular visits and reading, you will become familiar with common issues and fixes discussed here on the board.

Whew that was lot. :dizzy:

TennesseeCRD · **Joined:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:01 am **Posts:** 181

That was alot. Thanks a million. Seems that it is all about keeping things clean and soot free. I'll read up on all of this. Now if it would only warm up so I could start some of this. Hasn't been above 32 degrees in 10 days here and single digits at night. The CRD has cranked kind of slow (compared to in warmer weather) but it has started every morning. Other than the stock Optma battery is there a replacement that is as good or better?

linewarbr · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 5:21 pm

Battery opinions are about as varied as oil opinions. I replaced my Mopar battery with an Optima Yellow top because that was all that was available at the time. Haven't been disappointed, but it sure was expensive.

You may want to try plugging in the block heater at night. Look under on the driver's side of the engine next to the oil dipstick tube and you should see a three-prong plug. That will keep the block ~70 degrees all night long.

TennesseeCRD · **Joined:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:01 am **Posts:** 181

Thanks on the plug. I looked the other day just assuming that it had one but didn't see it in the usual "up front" location. I'll find it and plug it in.

TennesseeCRD · **Joined:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:01 am **Posts:** 181

What exactly will the GDE tune do for me?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 8:28 pm

TennesseeCRD wrote:

What exactly will the GDE tune do for me?

Better MPG's
More power and better response
eliminates most all egr problems
Runs like it should have to begin with :SOMBRERO:

TennesseeCRD · **Joined:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:01 am **Posts:** 181

Sounds like this is a must. Who does it and what is the $$?

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:11 pm

GDE is Green Diesel Engenering, the tune is a bit expensive but it does have many benifits, I am saving up to get mine done.
http://www.greendieselengineering.com/goPage.do?method=home

As for the battery mine was only good untill the first real cold morning. it was acting funny in september but passed Advanced auto's test. when it failed to start the engine I just got a jump and went Avanced got one of those Gold batteries they sell. it was way less one of those red tops and does the job fine.

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2010 12:33 am

Welcome Tennessee. Here are my diesels:

2005 CRD KJ
2001 TDI Jetta
1987 HZJ60 Toyota Land Cruier diesel
1987 Suzuki Samurai Long Wheelbase diesel

I use Amsoil exclusively.

For my CRD I use European car formula.
Here are the filters you need:

Air EAA201
Oil EA034

These in my opinions are the best products available.

TennesseeCRD · **Joined:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 11:01 am **Posts:** 181

I take it you like diesels Joe. Thanks to all for the info.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Wed Jan 13, 2010 11:02 am

TennesseeCRD wrote:

Sounds like this is a must. Who does it and what is the $$?

It's pricey, $550, but worth it IMHO. (In My Honest Opinion) Better mileage, no soot in the intake, but for me the best thing was better driveability. It smoothed out the torque delivery and made the Jeep better-driving at all speeds, but particularly slow speeds. Also there is more power available now, which leads to :twisted:

yes indeed. :pepper:

The guys that make the tune know our Jeeps intimately. They have two test mules that they have disassembled completely, they know the CRD inside and out. AFAIK (As Far As I Know) they are the only company that exclusively works with the Jeep KJ CRD.

Getting the tune involves purchasing it from them either via their website or by calling Keith at GDE and making other arrangements. Then you remove your ECU from the vehicle, overnight it to them in Michigan, and they will install the tune and overnight it back. Usual turnaround time is 2 days, they will tune it and ship it back the same day they receive it.

BTW (By The Way) if you decide to do this, holler at me before you remove the ECU. It is MUCH easier to remove the bracket the ECU is bolted to, and then remove the ECU, than it is to remove the ECU from the bracket while it is in the fender.

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