I purchased a 05 Liberty CRD in August of 09 with 32K. I was reading this forum for quite sometime before my purchase and have obtained some sound advice and direction. This is the first american vehicle I have owned. While I am not particularly impressed with the build quality, it has served me well so far and is fun to drive. I purchased the vehicle because I was looking for something I could drive everyday that got good MPG and could tow a trailer/racecar when needed. Well the Jeep has proven to be the best compromise!

One of the things I have done is installed a homemade provent. I know, I know, another one... Well I thought this was easy, quick, effective and cheap. So here goes.

You will need
QTY 1. Aluminum water bottle. They seem to be the "in" thing now, approximately 16oz with 3/4 threaded cap, which is what most have.
1. 3/4 poly barbed T
1. 3/4 poly MPT X Barb
1. 3/4 FPT X Barb 90 degree
1. 3/4 brass nipple
1. 1/2" X 6" SCH 40 PVC pipe
1. PCV valve or 3/4 pressure relief vale rated for 1PSI like this http://straval.com/catlist-relief-valves/rva-05
1. Ball valve. I used a wagner that had 3/8 thread by quick connect. Think water line for ice maker available at HD
2. packs of stainless stell wool
1. 5' of 3/4 tubing. I am using some vinyl type clear tubing from HD but plan on replacing it with something more durable.
1.Fancy chrome breather filter from your local auto parts dealer.

Install T as close to puck as you can add relief valve and filter on top of T and run hose level with puck and down to can. Come out of can and back to intake boot. By installing the T with relief valve you will protect against having too much pressure, if for some reason your catch can freezes or gets clogged it will simply push the relief valve open and come out the breather.

Thanks again for all the great advice. Click on the pic for a larger pic and description. See pics below.

Good writeup
you're the first homemade to put a pressure relief valve in.

and being an Aluminum water bottle - folks can do color codes - polished to look hitech or blue to match the Samco's

Thanks

_________________
2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Ouch!! that hurts.

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

The truth often does.

- Chris

_________________
Used to own:
2006 CRD Sport
Suncoast TC, Transgo shift kit, Inmotion, ORM, EHM, Magnaflow SS exhaust, Fumoto valve, EVIC added, Hensley TruControl brake controller, Pirelli Scorpion ATR LR-D in spring/summer/fall, FIA winter front and Blizzaks in winter

great setup, how much did every thing cost?

_________________
Horse Power: How fast you hit a wall.
Torque: How much of the wall you take with you.

06 CRD
OME HD w/clevis top plate
JBA 4.5 UCAs
245/75/16r Goodyear Duratrax
Fumoto Valve, V6 ABM
Rock Lizard Super Skinks
Cobra 75 WX ST
ECO GDE tune, 2.5 straight piped
ProVent, Samcoed
Non F37ed TCM
DieHard P1

This is mainly off the top of my head.

Water bottle free from a trade show I attended. I can't imagine they cost more than $5.00
Poly fittings $3.00
Brass Nipple $1.50 or so
1/2 X 3' PVC pipe $2.79
Tubing was only available in 15 or 20 foot roll. This was around $17.00 to $20.00
Breather $8.99 at Auto zone, saw the same one a day later for $7.99 at Pep Boys.
S.S pads $3.00 for the two packs.
PCV valve $4.50 I found a PCV valve that fit inside the hose perfectly, used a small clamp just to be sure. The other end of the PCV valve fit right inside the filter. The guy at the auto parts store let me look at a bunch of different PCV valves. Look at the bottom of the valve before you buy. Some have a large hole in the middle with a small slug or ball bearing inside to act as a check valve, which is what you want. Others have a smaller hole in the middle surounded by a series of little holes around the middle hole. The little holes allow constant blow by. I did some research and found it takes about 1PSI to open, or push up the bearing inside the PCV valve. Blow into it, you will feel it is closed and with minimal force it will open right up, keep it clean. Make sure you mount it straight up and down or it can get stuck. This part of the system was important to me. I was either going to let the oil flow into the intake, like may do, or catch it and have a safe guard against to much pressure in the crank case..

This was all thought up and designed based on all the great information, and trial and error, posted on this forum.

Don't know? Never owned one of those defective rusting out Japanese imports? Owned German, nice build, but have their problems as well.

_________________
2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

You must be referring to those Japanese "imports" that are built by the UAW.

two words for you, "Toyota HiLux."

_________________
-Rich
It must be air in the fuel!