Best Tires for my CRD?

Kniggit · **Posted:** Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:13 pm

I just got some Destination LE's in 245/70-16, but have less than 1,000 miles on them so far so good, no rub and no lift.

AZ CRD · **Posted:** Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:47 pm

RTStabler51 wrote:

AZ CRD wrote:

I've got 35K miles on my 245/70/16 Yokohama Geolanders H/T S's with 2/32nds of thread left. Looking at replacing them with the Yokohama A/T's or the Michelin LTX A/T 2's back to the original size.

I just replaced my Yoko Geolander H/Ts and they had almost 50k on them. I had no complaints with them except I wanted a bit more aggressive tire...for no good reason though.

I probably could have gotten another 5-6K out of them. They were at 4/32nds. But, I got a flat in the outback of AZ from a rock which would not have penetrated a tire with more thread on it, so I replaced them. I, too, had no complaints. Good, quiet, nice riding tires with adequate mud, snow, and off road performance. And, I too went with a more aggressive A/T even though off road is about 5% of my driving. It's a 5% where one would like to be sure footed however.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:01 pm

No.2KJ wrote:

How many miles did you get out of the all seasons? I'm thinking of going with a, inexpensive summer tire to help with the gas mileage and save some miles on the silent armours.

After 46k on the BF Goodrich's (on the rear with no rotation) they were down to between 4/32 and 2/32... The fronts which I got at the same time are still on the CRD, and have a LOT more tread for having the same mileage. I figure I will get at least another 20k out of them.

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/overview/commercial-t-a-all-season/45.html

That's the All Seasons I have, the second link is the traction style that I got for the rears, in the snow. Even without the studs that I got put in them, they felt GREAT on some slushy ice. After the studs... It felt virtually glued to the roadway. Snow? What snow?

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/specs/commercial-t-a-traction/48.html

jeepdan · **Posted:** Tue Feb 16, 2010 11:51 am

I am considering either the LTX at2's, or the B.F Goodrich commercial traction tires in the 225/75R16 size. Do these tires have a much stiffer ride since they have a E load rating? I hoping one of these might be good choice since I pull a heavy trailer using a weight distributing hitch. Can't afford to have a extra set of tires dedicated for winter snow at this time, but I would like a tire that gives good fuel mpg. and reasonable wear year round. Dan Wheeling, WV

fastRob · **Posted:** Tue Feb 16, 2010 1:21 pm

jeepdan wrote:

I am considering either the LTX at2's, or the B.F Goodrich commercial traction tires in the 225/75R16 size. Do these tires have a much stiffer ride since they have a E load rating? I hoping one of these might be good choice since I pull a heavy trailer using a weight distributing hitch. Can't afford to have a extra set of tires dedicated for winter snow at this time, but I would like a tire that gives good fuel mpg. and reasonable wear year round. Dan Wheeling, WV

Good choices.
I like the E's, stiff ride, but they don't blow out. Keep them balanced, aligned and rotated you will be ok. Higher tire presures will stiffen the ride & extend life a little.

jeepdan · **Posted:** Tue Feb 16, 2010 2:16 pm

Thanks for answering my question about the E-load rating. Can anyone tell me how well the B.F.Goodrich commercial tractions will wear with their more aggressive snow tread? How about highway manners pulling a trailer?

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Feb 16, 2010 3:32 pm

I had mine pinned when I got them, so I don't have much info about the manners before then - Only drove about 3 miles without the studs, just waiting for them to get to the shop.

Since then, the manners have been great on the highway, I don't even notice the studs at all. I haven't pulled anything with these yet (other than rescuing a stuck pickup) so can't claim on their towing performance either... BUT the all-season version were GREAT for towing. I had just over 1k lbs TONGUE sitting on them, and they barely showed any sidewall flex at 50psi. They are rated for 80, which really is a stiff ride. Its not too bad at 50, I wouldn't run them much softer than 40psi. To me, at 40 the CRD felt like it was oozing all over the road - Too squishy for my tastes.

Be aware: The traction version are load range D, not E. Not much difference when we are so far under that limit anyway, but just an FYI. I wouldn't suggest pulling with a half-ton tongue either, but the CRD did it without even raising the temp gauge, in AUGUST in the South too.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Feb 16, 2010 3:34 pm

In my opinion, I would stay away from "E" tires. They are heavy, will kill your fuel economy, and are overkill for a vehicle that only has an 1,100 lb. payload.

I would get a tire with a "P" or "SL" rating personally. Try to at least maintain some of your diesel economy and a somewhat decent ride quality.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 16, 2010 4:00 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

In my opinion, I would stay away from "E" tires. They are heavy, will kill your fuel economy, and are overkill for a vehicle that only has an 1,100 lb. payload.

I would get a tire with a "P" or "SL" rating personally. Try to at least maintain some of your diesel economy and a somewhat decent ride quality.

So when did you buy a "car","P" rated tires are "passenger car" tires.Jeeps should have a "LT" tire,range load "C","D",or "E".Believe it or not "D"/"E" range tires will actually perform better and have a better ride since they aren't mushy like "P" tires,it's Jeep not a caddy.Some of the best wearing(longest) are "E" rated tires,more rubber = longer wearing and less problems,some of the best traction tires(offroad,bad weather) are "C"/"D" rated.Your CRD's are not light(4200lbs stock) and not running low profile tires so get the better sidewalls that the LT tires offer and be safer,so what if you get 1mpg less.Last MOAB trip I averaged just shy of 22mpg's on "D" rated tires(265/75 Trxus MT's) tipping the scales at well over 5500lbs with the 3.7,that's just about on par with what some of you get with a stock CRD(read many of the mpg threads in here).

My KJ before the SFA swap weighed over 1000lbs more then your CRD's and I ran mostly "D" rated tires(265/75R16's) and at the optimum psi of 43psi(best tire wear) they felt a bit mushy,when I ran "E" tires at 38psi it felt much better.I now run "C" rated tires and the ride is like a caddy but I do have 10" of sidewall to flex and running only 28psi(35psi max press).

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Feb 16, 2010 4:27 pm

*runs outside to see if the moon has turned blue*

I can't believe I'm agreeing with TJ... But he isn't kidding on any of that. The 215/85 tires might be heavier, but they have less rolling resistance than the stock mush-wheels.

Try them, you'll like them a lot.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:47 am

tjkj2002 wrote:

LibertyCRD wrote:

In my opinion, I would stay away from "E" tires. They are heavy, will kill your fuel economy, and are overkill for a vehicle that only has an 1,100 lb. payload.

I would get a tire with a "P" or "SL" rating personally. Try to at least maintain some of your diesel economy and a somewhat decent ride quality.

So when did you buy a "car","P" rated tires are "passenger car" tires.Jeeps should have a "LT" tire,range load "C","D",or "E".Believe it or not "D"/"E" range tires will actually perform better and have a better ride since they aren't mushy like "P" tires,it's Jeep not a caddy.Some of the best wearing(longest) are "E" rated tires,more rubber = longer wearing and less problems,some of the best traction tires(offroad,bad weather) are "C"/"D" rated.Your CRD's are not light(4200lbs stock) and not running low profile tires so get the better sidewalls that the LT tires offer and be safer,so what if you get 1mpg less.Last MOAB trip I averaged just shy of 22mpg's on "D" rated tires(265/75 Trxus MT's) tipping the scales at well over 5500lbs with the 3.7,that's just about on par with what some of you get with a stock CRD(read many of the mpg threads in here).

My KJ before the SFA swap weighed over 1000lbs more then your CRD's and I ran mostly "D" rated tires(265/75R16's) and at the optimum psi of 43psi(best tire wear) they felt a bit mushy,when I ran "E" tires at 38psi it felt much better.I now run "C" rated tires and the ride is like a caddy but I do have 10" of sidewall to flex and running only 28psi(35psi max press).

Some corrections: First of all, our CRDs weigh 4,300 lbs. Second, they come with "P" rated tires from the factory, not "E" rated tires. You will only find "E" tires on Ram 3500 trucks that weigh 7,000 lbs. or more. It is ridiculous that so many people are wanting to run 1-ton truck tires on their Jeeps.

Second, the higher mileage the tire, the harder the rubber. The harder the rubber, the less traction you will have. Period.

Third, a "mushy" tire will ride a LOT better than a stiff 10-ply "E" tire any day of the week. This is one of the primary reasons that manufacturers do not use "LT (light truck)" tires on SUVs and 1/2-ton pickups.

If you want to run "E" tires...go for it. But it's major overkill and benefits you in NO way on a Jeep. A "C" rated tire would be much better if you insist on a truck tire. Or a "P" rated tire would be even better.

My tires are "P" rated, but they are tough as nails, not mushy at all, have rim protectors, and will dig and bite through anything without the penalty of all that excess weight in construction.

AZ CRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 8:45 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

LibertyCRD wrote:

In my opinion, I would stay away from "E" tires. They are heavy, will kill your fuel economy, and are overkill for a vehicle that only has an 1,100 lb. payload.

I would get a tire with a "P" or "SL" rating personally. Try to at least maintain some of your diesel economy and a somewhat decent ride quality.

So when did you buy a "car","P" rated tires are "passenger car" tires.Jeeps should have a "LT" tire,range load "C","D",or "E".Believe it or not "D"/"E" range tires will actually perform better and have a better ride since they aren't mushy like "P" tires,it's Jeep not a caddy.Some of the best wearing(longest) are "E" rated tires,more rubber = longer wearing and less problems,some of the best traction tires(offroad,bad weather) are "C"/"D" rated.Your CRD's are not light(4200lbs stock) and not running low profile tires so get the better sidewalls that the LT tires offer and be safer,so what if you get 1mpg less.Last MOAB trip I averaged just shy of 22mpg's on "D" rated tires(265/75 Trxus MT's) tipping the scales at well over 5500lbs with the 3.7,that's just about on par with what some of you get with a stock CRD(read many of the mpg threads in here).

My KJ before the SFA swap weighed over 1000lbs more then your CRD's and I ran mostly "D" rated tires(265/75R16's) and at the optimum psi of 43psi(best tire wear) they felt a bit mushy,when I ran "E" tires at 38psi it felt much better.I now run "C" rated tires and the ride is like a caddy but I do have 10" of sidewall to flex and running only 28psi(35psi max press).

Some corrections: First of all, our CRDs weigh 4,300 lbs. Second, they come with "P" rated tires from the factory, not "E" rated tires. You will only find "E" tires on Ram 3500 trucks that weigh 7,000 lbs. or more. It is ridiculous that so many people are wanting to run 1-ton truck tires on their Jeeps.

Second, the higher mileage the tire, the harder the rubber. The harder the rubber, the less traction you will have. Period.

Third, a "mushy" tire will ride a LOT better than a stiff 10-ply "E" tire any day of the week. This is one of the primary reasons that manufacturers do not use "LT (light truck)" tires on SUVs and 1/2-ton pickups.

If you want to run "E" tires...go for it. But it's major overkill and benefits you in NO way on a Jeep. A "C" rated tire would be much better if you insist on a truck tire. Or a "P" rated tire would be even better.

My tires are "P" rated, but they are tough as nails, not mushy at all, have rim protectors, and will dig and bite through anything without the penalty of all that excess weight in construction.

First, your "tough as nails" assessment of your tires contradicts your claim that "the higher the mileage the tire, the harder the rubber." I guess my LTX's are tough as diamonds.

Second, if I wanted to improve my "ride" with sticky tires for fast cornering, quick stops, and hard acceleration, I'd drive my SL 320 and not complain when I wear out my tires in 20K miles.

Third, the manufacturers use passenger tires on SUVs because they know that soccer moms and most everybody else will never take their SUV's off road. People simply buy them as glorified minivans.

Fourth, your "P" rated tires save you 1.8 lbs or so per tire in your General 255/70's but have a much greater rolling resistance than my Michelin LT225/75's.

Fifth, Consumer Reports rates the General Grabber AT 2 fourteenth out of fourteen tires reviewed in its class with "poor" dry braking (so much for the "Grabber" moniker).

BVCRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:33 pm

Tire rack folks that have driven the tires like a ka-gillion miles rank them at 7th with some pretty good numbers both on and off the road. I wouldn't shade tires that have proven themselves fella.

AZ CRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:37 pm

BVCRD wrote:

Tire rack folks that have driven the tires like a ka-gillion miles rank them at 7th with some pretty good numbers both on and off the road. I wouldn't shade tires that have proven themselves fella.

The only reason I'm dissing the guy and his tires is his opinionated, pedantic tone. Drive what grabs ya.

btw . . . Don't call me "fella." :grim:

tia

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:41 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

LibertyCRD wrote:

In my opinion, I would stay away from "E" tires. They are heavy, will kill your fuel economy, and are overkill for a vehicle that only has an 1,100 lb. payload.

I would get a tire with a "P" or "SL" rating personally. Try to at least maintain some of your diesel economy and a somewhat decent ride quality.

So when did you buy a "car","P" rated tires are "passenger car" tires.Jeeps should have a "LT" tire,range load "C","D",or "E".Believe it or not "D"/"E" range tires will actually perform better and have a better ride since they aren't mushy like "P" tires,it's Jeep not a caddy.Some of the best wearing(longest) are "E" rated tires,more rubber = longer wearing and less problems,some of the best traction tires(offroad,bad weather) are "C"/"D" rated.Your CRD's are not light(4200lbs stock) and not running low profile tires so get the better sidewalls that the LT tires offer and be safer,so what if you get 1mpg less.Last MOAB trip I averaged just shy of 22mpg's on "D" rated tires(265/75 Trxus MT's) tipping the scales at well over 5500lbs with the 3.7,that's just about on par with what some of you get with a stock CRD(read many of the mpg threads in here).

My KJ before the SFA swap weighed over 1000lbs more then your CRD's and I ran mostly "D" rated tires(265/75R16's) and at the optimum psi of 43psi(best tire wear) they felt a bit mushy,when I ran "E" tires at 38psi it felt much better.I now run "C" rated tires and the ride is like a caddy but I do have 10" of sidewall to flex and running only 28psi(35psi max press).

Some corrections: First of all, our CRDs weigh 4,300 lbs. Second, they come with "P" rated tires from the factory, not "E" rated tires. You will only find "E" tires on Ram 3500 trucks that weigh 7,000 lbs. or more. It is ridiculous that so many people are wanting to run 1-ton truck tires on their Jeeps.

Second, the higher mileage the tire, the harder the rubber. The harder the rubber, the less traction you will have. Period.

Third, a "mushy" tire will ride a LOT better than a stiff 10-ply "E" tire any day of the week. This is one of the primary reasons that manufacturers do not use "LT (light truck)" tires on SUVs and 1/2-ton pickups.

If you want to run "E" tires...go for it. But it's major overkill and benefits you in NO way on a Jeep. A "C" rated tire would be much better if you insist on a truck tire. Or a "P" rated tire would be even better.

My tires are "P" rated, but they are tough as nails, not mushy at all, have rim protectors, and will dig and bite through anything without the penalty of all that excess weight in construction.

Longer wearing does not mean harder rubber at all.A LT tire will have greater tread depth the a "P" rated tire,more rubber = longer wearing.Also a "P" rated tires will never hold up like a LT tire will.Weaker sidewalls of a "P" rated tire on a Heavy vehicle like a CRD will cause alot of sidewall flexing at highway speeds which equals lots of heat and tire failures when you guys like to run at the max/close to the max psi which is only 44psi on your "P" rated tires,less likely with a LT tire.

If you look at your "P" rated tires your almost maxing them out with a stock CRD with max payload and towed weight,actually you might be a little past max safe specs.

AZ CRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:44 pm

Quote:

Some corrections: First of all, our CRDs weigh 4,300 lbs. Second, they come with "P" rated tires from the factory, not "E" rated tires. You will only find "E" tires on Ram 3500 trucks that weigh 7,000 lbs. or more. It is ridiculous that so many people are wanting to run 1-ton truck tires on their Jeeps.

Second, the higher mileage the tire, the harder the rubber. The harder the rubber, the less traction you will have. Period.

Third, a "mushy" tire will ride a LOT better than a stiff 10-ply "E" tire any day of the week. This is one of the primary reasons that manufacturers do not use "LT (light truck)" tires on SUVs and 1/2-ton pickups.

If you want to run "E" tires...go for it. But it's major overkill and benefits you in NO way on a Jeep. A "C" rated tire would be much better if you insist on a truck tire. Or a "P" rated tire would be even better.

My tires are "P" rated, but they are tough as nails, not mushy at all, have rim protectors, and will dig and bite through anything without the penalty of all that excess weight in construction.

Quote:

Longer wearing does not mean harder rubber at all.A LT tire will have greater tread depth the a "P" rated tire,more rubber = longer wearing.Also a "P" rated tires will never hold up like a LT tire will.Weaker sidewalls of a "P" rated tire on a Heavy vehicle like a CRD will cause alot of sidewall flexing at highway speeds which equals lots of heat and tire failures when you guys like to run at the max/close to the max psi which is only 44psi on your "P" rated tires,less likely with a LT tire.

If you look at your "P" rated tires your almost maxing them out with a stock CRD with max payload and towed weight,actually you might be a little past max safe specs.

My reply was better. Just sayin'

BVCRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:32 pm

He's kinda right. A CRD only adds 260# or so to the curb weight. My Grabbers are a XL which means they are harder compond with a 640 rating and a 6 ply. They are NOT snow rated although they do pretty well for me at 8000 feet in the drifts.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Wed Feb 17, 2010 11:18 pm

You're kidding me, right? Dry braking? :ROTFL:

Show me one stock Jeep that can lock up the brakes on dry pavement with ANY tire. Dry braking doesn't matter. I consider wet braking, hydroplaning, snow traction and offroad traction to be the most important things. And the Grabber AT2 excels at all of those.

Sorry for my tone. It's just that there are a lot more people out there than you realize that obviously have no clue...and I hate to see people asking for help getting responses like I've seen them getting lately. Like I said...if you want to run 1-ton truck tires on a compact Jeep...go for it. But the fact is, it's hardly going to be advantageous to do so.

Silverdiesel · **Posted:** Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:30 am

We drive heavy SUV's even though they look like compact Jeeps.
Some weight facts:
Jeep KJ CRD 4360 lbs
Jeep TJ 3400 lbs
1/2 ton pickup SWB(typ) 3400 lbs
ford expedition 4700 lbs
SWB,SRA .75t p/u(typ) 4500 lbs
my 06 Jetta TDI 3250 lbs

Vehicles can be deceiving...Would I run load range D's or E's? I think so. KJ CRD is100 lbs less weight than a 3/4 ton truck.
And we STILL get hwy MPGS in the high 20,s/ low 30's!!
Those Heavy Duty tires only promote this incredible mileage...

Roland

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:37 am

Silverdiesel wrote:

We drive heavy SUV's even though they look like compact Jeeps.
Some weight facts:
Jeep KJ CRD 4360 lbs
Jeep TJ 3400 lbs
1/2 ton pickup SWB(typ) 5200 lbs
ford expedition 5300 lbs
SWB,SRA .75t p/u(typ) 4500 lbs
my 06 Jetta TDI 3250 lbs

Vehicles can be deceiving...Would I run load range D's or E's? I think so. KJ CRD is about 3000 lbs less weight than a 3/4 ton truck.
And we STILL get hwy MPGS in the high 20,s/ low 30's!!
Those Heavy Duty tires only promote this incredible mileage...

Roland

Fixed some of the #'s for you to be closer to true(in bold).

Best Tires for my CRD?

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