I did the clevis lift.Well, kinda.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Wed Feb 15, 2006 5:41 pm

I was only able to get 1 conduit nut in without upper ball joint contact. I dont understand how some people can get 2 or 3 in there and i can only get 1. I would say I received 1/4in of lift.

For some reason, the passenger side isnt as bad as the driver side. The spring is turned some on the passenger side, causing it to go in-between the springs but its still not as close.

Any ideas whats going on?

JeepJunky33 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 15, 2006 5:52 pm

Are those pictures of your KJ in the air or is that on the ground at eye level? If it's on the ground then you have some real problems. The upper A-arm should not be that close to the springs.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Wed Feb 15, 2006 7:25 pm

Lol, thats on a jack. Wheels off the ground.

PS, I figured i would tell my funny story of the day. When I was taking the passenger side apart, I had the upper ball joint out, sway bar links off, and was getting ready to loosen the clevis clamp when I couldnt find its nut? I looked around in the driveway, then started to freak out when I thought I didnt tighten it up last time I worked on it and it fell off. I was thinking of how to get another one and got that awful feeling when I know I will not be able to drive the Jeep for days until i find another nut, then i realized it doesnt even have a nut. It threads into the clevis! I felt stupid.

camper · **Posted:** Wed Feb 15, 2006 10:09 pm

a couple things come into play....one, you already figured out....it makes a difference how you install the coil spring when you assemble the strut assembly....by spinning the spring in the rubber pad, you can find an optimum position for the gap between the coils for the upper ball joint boot to fall into when at full drop...I installed my rusty's lift and actually disassembled the passenger side after install to change the coil position....I got lucky on the first try on the drivers side....

I think the other thing is the two sides aren't guaranteed to be symetrical....the mount locations can allow the coil to fall against the inside of the fender well liner and sort of limit the drop of the suspension....I think the contact is different from one side to the other so you may have more ball joint clearance on the side that doesn't drop down as far....

I've noticed that as my springs have softened up, I've lost some of that good space....maybe because at full drop, the coil is able to bend a little against the well liner and allow the suspension to drop just a little farther?....

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Wed Feb 15, 2006 10:20 pm

So how the heck do they have that much clevis lift with no upper ball joint contact? Do they just not care that it beats its self to death?

camper · **Posted:** Wed Feb 15, 2006 11:41 pm

if you right click that picture above and check properties, you'll see it's my picture...my clevis lift...you don't really need the conduit nuts....I doubt that's alot of clevis lift compared to some guys here....

my name's steve wilks....

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

Camper is correct. It has to do with the alignment of the spring. You can see a difference between the two side in your pictures. You need to essentially rotate the spring inside the strut assembly about 180*.

However an easier way it just to rotate the top plate. Take out the strut assembly and put a pry bar between two bolts and clamp down the spring. It should rotate surprisingly easy. The the OME struts have no alignment tabs on the bottom so you can rotate the top however you want and not have to worry about those silly alignment tabs the stock struts have.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Thu Feb 16, 2006 11:10 am

Eddo wrote:

Camper is correct. It has to do with the alignment of the spring. You can see a difference between the two side in your pictures. You need to essentially rotate the spring inside the strut assembly about 180*.

However an easier way it just to rotate the top plate. Take out the strut assembly and put a pry bar between two bolts and clamp down the spring. It should rotate surprisingly easy. The the OME struts have no alignment tabs on the bottom so you can rotate the top however you want and not have to worry about those silly alignment tabs the stock struts have.

Why didnt you do that when you put them together Eddo?!?!?! JK, Im not to worried about it, just wish the front didnt sit so low. I also noticed you must of had some ball joint contact eddo, theres a rust spot right where the ball joint would hit. You can see it in that pic.

Sorry for using your pic camper, I just saw it and copied it. I really dont feel like taking that front end apart again, way to much work for that.

camper · **Posted:** Thu Feb 16, 2006 1:35 pm

Quote:

sorry for using your pic camper, I just saw it and copied it.

hey man....I don't mind at all....I thought it was a funny coincidence you put it up there without knowing it was mine....

if you have eddo helping, you're in good hands....

I did the clevis lift.Well, kinda.

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