Anybody seafoam the CRD?

BVCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:30 am

Good find Joe. I believe all the 0W or 5W recomendations in our market are for fuel economy on start up. They are all 40W once up to operating temps anyway. I remember back in the day when 10W40 first came out over straight weight oils. It was marketed as an "all season" oil. Us dummies were used to using straight 30W, or if you had ring problems, 40W.

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:24 am

BVCRD wrote:

there are some questionable issues with it's design

Like what?

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:26 am

TonyCRD wrote:

That's what I would like to say to you but I am a nicer guy.

mikey1273 wrote:

yeah that is correct for our engines. The ingectors and combustion chambers will get a good cleaning.
my next oil change is in a week or two and I'm doing it in the oil as a precleaner and in the fuel. when I chage the fuel filter next time I will fill that with seafoam.

BVCRD wrote:

Good deal.

TonyCRD wrote:

So...first you tell him to delute the engine oil ( yeah, that's really good for the rod bearings) then you tell him to fill the fuel filter with sea foam and run that through his CRD system?

BVCRD...for all I can figure out you are clueless of how a CRD engine works.

And I cannot believe what some people in this thread are going to do or are doing to their poor CRD's.

You guys have absolutely no idea of how a CRD system works.

BVCRD wrote:

I didn't tell him to fill his fuel filter full of Seafoam. He read that on the Seafoam site. I would suggest you go back and carefully read the posts instead of jumping to conclusions!!! I pour it in my fuel tank. Solvents have been used for decades to dislodge deposits in oil passages. The key is to not do it, and then run down the road at 75 mph for 10-15 hours straight. You do it JUST until the engine warms up. Then drain away. Please keep your opinions to yourself. That's just what they are....YOURS!

I did pull that from the seafoam site. they are saying to put in 1 and 1/2 oz. per quart of oil and its safe to drive for 100 miles like that. seafoam is a petrolium product... an oil with lubricating and solvent properties. I don't see how it can do major damage when used properly with caution. I don't plan to run a full 100 miles or run it hard with that in the oil. maybe half that and I am going to put it whats left in my fuel. I have used it in gas engines and it works in them. I will post back how it worked after done. If anyone doesn't agree with doing this thats fine you can read and discuss, agree or disagree I don't mind you all are intitled to an opinion.

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:40 am

Mikey,

Do what you think is best for your rig. I too add fuel conditioner to a full tank of diesel every 7500 just for the heck of it, not even sure if it works or not, but my JEEP dealer does it too so.

What you said was fill up the fuel filter with seafoam. I read that as filling the new filter with seafoam, then starting your engine. Bad idea, because before it reaches the injectors, it runs through this:

Not so long ago I had a customer with a Mercedes CDI who refueled with regular instead of diesel.

$3500 repair. HP pump shredded, metalparts everywhere, injectors blocked, etc.

So before you blow up your $$$ HP pump because someone on an internet forum tells you it's ok to do silly stuff to our injection system...I am telling you to be very carefull.

Most here seem to think this is what we have, talking about diesel injection.

BVCRD wrote:

Solvents have been used for decades to dislodge deposits in oil passages.

And then they invented something called 'fully synthetic' engine oil.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:45 am

tonycrd wrote:

BVCRD wrote:

there are some questionable issues with it's design

Like what?

I don't like that the engine uses a timing belt, I would rather see a chain, but then most modern engines use a belt.

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:49 am

Yes that T belt seems like a weak point doesn't it? (it's not if properly maintained)

I had a CRD engine in a Chrysler T&C. VM tried a chain in '97/'98. The friggin thing broke twice due to warn out tensioners.

Since a chain is not a thing you would normally inspect or service, it left me stranded two times.

I prever a belt. Easy to change, no hydrolics, no surprises.

People tend to make a big deal out of changing the timing belt and yell '$500 of special tools needed' while in reality you can do it with a normal set of handtools, a piece of chalk an an 8 mm metric drill.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:53 am

Like what? Well, the items Digger mentioned for a start. Seafoam states on their site that it is safe to use as directed, and they direct folks to fill up a fuel filter. Probably not much different than when folks fill up a filter with power service when making a filter change. Argue all you like. We'll still be here!!

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 10:59 am

tonycrd wrote:

Mikey,

Do what you think is best for your rig. I too add fuel conditioner to a full tank of diesel every 7500 just for the heck of it, not even sure if it works or not, but my JEEP dealer does it too so.

What you said was fill up the fuel filter with seafoam. I read that as filling the new filter with seafoam, then starting your engine. Bad idea, because before it reaches the injectors, it runs through this:

Not so long ago I had a customer with a Mercedes CDI who refueled with regular instead of diesel.

$3500 repair. HP pump shredded, metalparts everywhere, injectors blocked, etc.

So before you blow up your $$$ HP pump because someone on an internet forum tells you it's ok to do silly stuff to our injection system...I am telling you to be very carefull.

Most here seem to think this is what we have, talking about diesel injection.

BVCRD wrote:

Solvents have been used for decades to dislodge deposits in oil passages.

And then they invented something called 'fully synthetic' engine oil.

I'm not going to say you are right or wrong about that. I would have to look in to the lubricity of seafoam vs diesel. That's what the seafoam site claims we need to do with our type of fuel system. I'm not going to do that now for now I am adding it to the fuel and oil as a pre cleaner. I'm not up for a filter now I changed mine 6k ago. I will have to think about filling my filter with it before the next change.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:05 am

mikey1273 wrote:

tonycrd wrote:

Mikey,

Do what you think is best for your rig. I too add fuel conditioner to a full tank of diesel every 7500 just for the heck of it, not even sure if it works or not, but my JEEP dealer does it too so.

What you said was fill up the fuel filter with seafoam. I read that as filling the new filter with seafoam, then starting your engine. Bad idea, because before it reaches the injectors, it runs through this:

Not so long ago I had a customer with a Mercedes CDI who refueled with regular instead of diesel.

$3500 repair. HP pump shredded, metalparts everywhere, injectors blocked, etc.

So before you blow up your $$$ HP pump because someone on an internet forum tells you it's ok to do silly stuff to our injection system...I am telling you to be very carefull.

Most here seem to think this is what we have, talking about diesel injection.

BVCRD wrote:

Solvents have been used for decades to dislodge deposits in oil passages.

And then they invented something called 'fully synthetic' engine oil.

I'm not going to say you are right or wrong about that. I would have to look in to the lubricity of seafoam vs diesel. That's what the seafoam site claims we need to do with our type of fuel system. I'm not going to do that now for now I am adding it to the fuel and oil as a pre cleaner. I'm not up for a filter now I changed mine 6k ago. I will have to think about filling my filter with it before the next change.

Remember, that fill method is for if you have a very dirty system. You fill it, start it and imediately shut it down so that it has a chance to soak for a while. Diluted in the fuel, it is more of a preventative/maintanance use for slightly dirty systems. I'm not sure I would ever have a need to fill the filter. If it gets that bad, time to change fuel suppliers.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:18 am

Typical injection pressure on this style of injection pump is only 2K to 8K.. A far cry from 24K

Chain's are just as bad.... A full gear train would have been nice. Yes it would have added 50 to 100 pounds, but it would have solved any service issues. Just remember, there are still $500 dollar tools out there for engines that don't have belts.. A CAT 3054 and 3056 (Perkins engine) uses a $500 dollar tool that sets the engine at -2 degrees TDC. You need to install this tool when replacing the injection pump...

Oh and good luck finding a 10W-40 that is widely available.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:42 am

Digger, now you have opened the Amsoil door.

http://bestsyntheticoil.com/content58.html

BTW, the boss says "let's do that" on the crappie. :pepper:

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:46 am

BVCRD wrote:

Seafoam states on their site that it is safe to use as directed

They also say this on their website:

Remember! When Using Sea Foam in Your Crankcase:

* Check your oil and monitor its color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!

* Change your oil when it gets dirty!

Guess they have never seen a diesel engine or changed oil in one. You still put your faith in them?

BVCRD wrote:

Remember, that fill method is for if you have a very dirty system. You fill it, start it and imediately shut it down so that it has a chance to soak for a while.

BVCRD wrote:

Argue all you like.

I am not arguing. I'm trying to warn you. You can either think for a sec and investigate a product or keep on trying to blow up your CRD. After you succeeded you can post what a poor product Chrysler is.

All the same to me.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:54 am

tonycrd wrote:

BVCRD wrote:

Seafoam states on their site that it is safe to use as directed

They also say this on their website:

Remember! When Using Sea Foam in Your Crankcase:

* Check your oil and monitor its color & clarity to determine need for LOF service!

* Change your oil when it gets dirty!

Guess they have never seen a diesel engine or changed oil in one. You still put your faith in them?

BVCRD wrote:

Argue all you like.

I am not arguing. I'm trying to warn you. You can either think for a sec and investigate a product or keep on trying to blow up your CRD. All the same to me.

That was a geralization statement worded as you suggest for gas engines. I've used the stuff for 35 year and will continue to do so. If we went by color alone, we would be changing our oil after 20 miles of driving. Which brings up a good point....if all the graphite that is in suspension ever finds a place to settle out, say, in the 25,000 miles that Amsoil oil is warranted for, then deposits may occure.
Seafoam is suggesting that there is still enough lubrication present in the oil IF their product is used as directed. Remeber that on a cold start-up, our oil is only 0W anyway. Pretty thin...pretty thin.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:38 pm

BVCRD wrote:

Digger, now you have opened the Amsoil door.

http://bestsyntheticoil.com/content58.html

BTW, the boss says "let's do that" on the crappie. :pepper:

At $40 a gallon after shipping, I'll stick with syn 5w40 rotella .... Heck, if one wanted to run a 10w30, I could get it for 11 a gallon at the CAT dealer here.. I was only stating to find a cheap bulk 10w40 is impossible

BVCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:42 pm

Diggerfreek wrote:

BVCRD wrote:

Digger, now you have opened the Amsoil door.

http://bestsyntheticoil.com/content58.html

BTW, the boss says "let's do that" on the crappie. :pepper:

At $40 a gallon after shipping, I'll stick with syn 5w40 rotella .... Heck, if one wanted to run a 10w30, I could get it for 11 a gallon at the CAT dealer here.. I was only stating to find a cheap bulk 10w40 is impossible

I Hear you, but at that price...and....Amsoil says good for 25K miles of regular use or a year which ever comes first.....

We put on 18K miles a year, which is 3 oil changes. Might break even.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 1:59 pm

BVCRD wrote:

Diggerfreek wrote:

BVCRD wrote:

Digger, now you have opened the Amsoil door.

http://bestsyntheticoil.com/content58.html

BTW, the boss says "let's do that" on the crappie. :pepper:

At $40 a gallon after shipping, I'll stick with syn 5w40 rotella .... Heck, if one wanted to run a 10w30, I could get it for 11 a gallon at the CAT dealer here.. I was only stating to find a cheap bulk 10w40 is impossible

I Hear you, but at that price...and....Amsoil says good for 25K miles of regular use or a year which ever comes first.....

We put on 18K miles a year, which is 3 oil changes. Might break even.

Unless you have a long history of UOA's, I wouldn't run oil for 25K in any thing...

If you run it 25K, you would break even if you did 4 regular oil changes because of the cost of UOA's

BVCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:03 pm

Yea, I wouldn't go 25K unless I had the oil analized to back it up. I cringe right now when it goes over 5K on Wally's Shell Rotella, but that's me.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:09 pm

BVCRD wrote:

Yea, I wouldn't go 25K unless I had the oil analized to back it up. I cringe right now when it goes over 5K on Wally's Shell Rotella, but that's me.

Me to. In my dad's ram, we run 7500 if we use the syn rotella and 4K to 5K on the 15w40 rotella.... At this point, I can watch the exhaust and tell when it needs an oil change :ROTFL:

BVCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:11 pm

Diggerfreek wrote:

BVCRD wrote:

Yea, I wouldn't go 25K unless I had the oil analized to back it up. I cringe right now when it goes over 5K on Wally's Shell Rotella, but that's me.

Me to. In my dad's ram, we run 7500 if we use the syn rotella and 4K to 5K on the 15w40 rotella.... At this point, I can watch the exhaust and tell when it needs an oil change :ROTFL:

Yea, I run the full syn. That is a good price for what you get.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 2:15 pm

BVCRD wrote:

Diggerfreek wrote:

BVCRD wrote:

Yea, I wouldn't go 25K unless I had the oil analized to back it up. I cringe right now when it goes over 5K on Wally's Shell Rotella, but that's me.

Me to. In my dad's ram, we run 7500 if we use the syn rotella and 4K to 5K on the 15w40 rotella.... At this point, I can watch the exhaust and tell when it needs an oil change :ROTFL:

Yea, I run the full syn. That is a good price for what you get.

Yeah, for $19.50 it's a bargain... Some times I get it as Vato zone @ $21 so I can get a credit for every gallon I buy....the free $20 is nice when you are a little short on mod funds :mrgreen:

Anybody seafoam the CRD?

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