So I was out at a customer site today when the waste oil guy came to pick up the fry oil, we started chatting about bio and ULSD.

Se stated that he has a 06 Mercedes in his Freightliner and since the new ULSD came out he ads 4oz of 30wt motor oil to each tank during the fill up.

He reasoning is that the ULSD has less lubrication and that the engine life will decrease without the oil he adds in.

I worked at the airport and the guys would filter out the waste JetA and add ATF for the very same reason, granted ULSD is not JetA.

Any truth to this? Should we be adding anything to the tank when we fill up?

Just something to chew over.

Cheers!

Ive always added an additive to each tank just because. I like higher cetane levels etc. Part of the movement to ULS diesel (15 parts per billion) included the refineries adding a lubrication additive. Technically you shouldnt have to worry about it, but I still add one every tank. I use Stanadyne, Amsoil or Lubromoly per fill up.


Tom

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2006 KJ CRD Ltd - Suncoast, GDE Eco, EGR Delete, After market T-Stat, Skid Row skids, V6 airbox, 2.5" Turbo back
2005 KJ CRD Sport-Suncoast, Transco, GDE Hot-GDE Trans, EGR Delete, Skid Row skids, V6 airbox, 2.5" Turbo back, After market S-Stat
1987 Suzuki LWB Samurai -diesel powered, custom 4 link coil suspension 38.5 SX Swampers

Mash on the link, it leads to a recent thread relating to diesel fuel additives.


viewtopic.php?f=5&t=49754&hilit

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Adding extra lube to the fuel is always a good idea, bio is by far the best. 30W oil is not a good choice, it is not formulated for burning in a combustion chamber, and depending on the additive package it may have adverse effects on the fuel system.

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION

X2, engine oil detergents and other additives leave undesirable deposits.
There have been lots of tests on lube additives for diesel showing their wear reduction.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

In my 06, I use B5 biodiesel or 8 oz of low ash 2 stroke oil per full ta Bnk of gas. In my 07 CRD with diesel particulate filter, I use B2.5 Biodiesel and XPD when I can't blend 50/50 B5 biodiesel with regular diesel

I put in Stanadyne on a schedule of "whenever I remember to" with my CRD... Haven't had any issues that can be tied directly to the fuel, good or bad.

I will say that on the few occasions that I have found a supply of low sulfur diesel instead of this ULSD crap... The CRD has run noticeably better, and I have gotten much better economy on that tank. Even considering the 'quality' of the fuel station and the fact that it is a MESSY place, and that the fuel probably isn't very clean either... The CRD STILL runs better on it.

Too bad that stuff is getting harder to find, and biodiesel isn't getting any easier to find. My CRD loves biodiesel even more than the low-sulfur rotgut.

Smoother operation, better power and economy... And its produced in the USA! Whats not to love about biodiesel, except the scarcity!

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I recently produced and tested my first 5 gallon batch of home brewed Biodiesel. It took me a while to learn the process with the thought of "Safety First" in mind. I noticed that the CRD ran smoother, quieter with no smelly fish odor coming out of the exhaust.


The Jeep loves the stuff.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

As others have said, adding some bio is the best "lubricity additive" you can get. If it's available, run the highest concentration you can depending on how cold it gets where you live. After it's first 1,800 miles from Oklahoma to California our CRD has always run B100 except when we go skiing. Then we splash blend to B50 w/ winter D2 and some Power Service.

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Chris
Current:
2007 Steel Blue Metallic Grand Cherokee CRD Limited
GDE Eco Tune and DPF delete
CB Engineering DPF delete pipe
EHM

Past (sold to Mountainman):
2005 Patriot Blue Liberty CRD Limited

Grr... Lucky bugger, that you can get B100 easily! I'm so jealous.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.