Suncoast or Euro TC

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

Now that Chrysler has a better factory TC, how does it stack up against the Suncoast version? Tighter/ Looser? AS well built. Worth the difference in price. Also, is the Euro TC a replacement part that would supersede previous TC if repaired by the dealer? Would the Euro be used to F37 a truck now?

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:27 pm

The "euro" TC is now the standard factory replacement TC for the KJ CRD, so it is covered by DCJ warranties and does not void the trans warranty which using a Suncoast potentially will. We now have 5000 miles on our "euro" TC including the most brutal towing we could come up with along with many dyno runs. The unit has performed flawlessly without a hint of shudder with the GDE HOT tune.

Given how many people have had shudder problems and other issues with Suncoast TCs, I think GDE steered us in the right direction by urging us to wait until the "euro" TC was available here in the US. I paid $225 from MPA (a fraction of the Suncoast price) and my dealer installed it at no cherge in conjunction with repairing a rear main seal leak under the 7/70 powertrain warranty.

I could not be more pleased with having gone this route.

DOC

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 12:43 am

Looks like I might have to constantly run my Striker on level 10 to fry the current converter that has a slight shudder under full acceleration locked up in OD at 60-65mph. Just so I can get this Euro-spec conv swapped in and covered under the warranty which runs out in a few months.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 7:31 am

2mopar_diesels wrote:

Just so I can get this Euro-spec conv swapped in and covered under the warranty which runs out in a few months.

It's too bad such thinking is resorted to because Chrysler choose to detune our CRD's instead of going ahead and replacing the faulty TC's :dead:

As a responsible car maker they've sure gained my confidence :-)r

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

I agree with above. That's fraud and theft. If you break it you should fix it.

You think I could get the F37 recall done now with the new converter?

linewarbr · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 12:57 pm

If you do, get a spare TCM first because F37 will also change your shift points. I'd be glad to trade you mine - and I'll pay shipping.

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

I had the F31 done so the TCM has been neutered.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 7:24 pm

Suncoast, I went to their shop and was impressed. Another factor is the steel billet back adds to the flywheel mass and will make the engine run smoother. More to come, can't tell ya yet.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:59 pm

Tinman wrote:

I agree with above. That's fraud and theft. If you break it you should fix it.

You think I could get the F37 recall done now with the new converter?

I agree with you, but what you don't realize is that my conv is on the way out anyways, because it had a slight shudder before the Striker in stock mode, then it of course made it worse if ran at anything above lev3. After using it for a couple months I took it off and haven't had it installed for over 9months. Was waiting till warranty ran out then was gonna get a Suncoast+shift kit. TC hasn't goten any worse lately, and probably still not bad enough for Jeep to replace now.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:08 pm

2Mopar,

Almost any CRD with miles has a leaking rear main seal. If your dealer won't agree to replace your TC now under warranty, just supply one from MPA when they R&R the trans to fix the seal as we did. That's the major cost. Hard to complain about a total of $250 to fix the shudder problem once and for all.

DOC

yakers · **Posted:** Wed Mar 17, 2010 1:05 am

DOC4444 wrote:

2Mopar,

Almost any CRD with miles has a leaking rear main seal.

DOC

Is that true? Maybe a time for a poll? I have 70K mi on mine including some towing and 1K MI off road and I do not see a leak. But if I do notice a leak and I am still on my original TC then that looks like a good time to replace it with a new TC. Is the rear seal replaced automatically with a TC change?

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Wed Mar 17, 2010 2:36 am

DOC4444 wrote:

2Mopar,

Almost any CRD with miles has a leaking rear main seal. If your dealer won't agree to replace your TC now under warranty, just supply one from MPA when they R&R the trans to fix the seal as we did. That's the major cost. Hard to complain about a total of $250 to fix the shudder problem once and for all.

DOC

And are you talking about the rear seal on the tranny or engine??? Either way, mine doesn't leak a drop anywhere.

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

The aftermarket performance market is totally different than the factory market and cost not as big a factory in aftermarket products (as compared to factory where cost is everything). However, the liberty market is very small for Suncoast and it appears they don't have all the bugs worked out.?? Hence the question; do you go with a well known diesel performance vendor, or the updated factory product. In the case of my high hp truck toys, the former, no question. But in a non-toy libby, the factory often seems to be doing quite well. If you guys are flogging the euro TC with the GDE hot tune, I can't see a reason for the extra $ on the Suncoast.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 17, 2010 5:21 pm

Rear main seal keeps oil from leaking where the crank exits the block to connect to the flywheel. On a CRD, the trans and flywheel need to be removed in order to replace the rear main seal. Most leak because of excessive crankcase pressure. You will see it at the bottom of the bellhousing.

DOC

linewarbr · **Posted:** Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:11 am

70K on mine too and the only time it has ever leaked oil is when the dealer forgot the copper washer on my last in-warranty oil change. I have spots on my driveway from the EHM and then from my Provent when I waited too long to drain it, but no leaks.

Of course, now that I write that, watch me find an oil spot tomorrow morning, hehhhh. . .

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 19, 2010 1:12 pm

On moparpartsamerica.com the Euro TC was $195 when I checked last month. Now it shows $286!! :shock:

WTH??

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

I checked with the service dept. and if I got the f37 now, they said it'd come with TC part C2CAF370. I assume that is the old f37 converter. Would this converter be superseded with the Euro now?

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 20, 2010 2:22 pm

That number isn't a valid Chrysler part number - that number is the supplier's part number for the torque converter. Unfortunately, I don't remember the cross reference between the two - hopefully Danoid can chime in.

As far as I know, the new Euro TC should superceed the old crappy TC for all purposes. You might ask the dealer to check the superceedence of the old TC part number to the one for the Euro part.

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:02 pm

I was lucky enough to have purchased a truck with a Suncoast and Transco. I also have an Inmotion stage two chip. I can spin both rear tires on drive pavement from a standing start with new tires!!!! Its a sturdy unit.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:14 pm

So now my Jeep is vibrating and bucking while cruising thru parking lots. I think my TC is on it's last leg.

Where is the cheapest place to currently purchase a Euro TC?

Suncoast or Euro TC

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