Right on track, if you already have it out this works.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Just curious, where did you get this information? If your fan clutch is spinning, centripetal force moves the fluid out anyway, right? Aren't these shipped in boxes, tossed in freight trucks at weird angles all the time. Never heard about not putting it flat. Worked at a parts store for about 4 years several...several years ago, they just came shoved in boxes in totes to us.

Maybe that is why I had to turn it a few times to get it to free spin after i pulled it out of the oven. I held it vertical while doing this. I used 220* because the lockup specs are 195*-205* F for lockup and unlock at 145-185* F.

Mine was definitely bad.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

The higher you go the thinner the air and the lower the thermal mass = worse for dumping heat.

Plus, how steep are the grades you are talking about? And for how long do they continue?

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Hmm, didn't know that. At the same time, I thought that the fluid was more for transmitting the heat to that thermocoil in the center - That actually does the twist that engages the clutch...?

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

One thing to remember about flex fans is that they can (and have) taken out radiators when fording streams. Seems the resistance of the water forces the blades to flex to far and create an interferance fit with other parts.

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2006 Libery Sport CRD, Lt Kakhi, nicely equipped
*****GDE Hot Tune at 38,879 miles
*****Stock TC.....for the time being!!

First off, when they flex they get flatter and move away from the engine accessories...if installed correctly that is.

Seconely, my factory fan clutch on my 86 jeep Cherokee snapped, and put my factory jeep fan through the radiator spilling coolant EVERYWHERE on HWY 94 and left me stranded...this is more likely due to the factory fan blades being angled next to the radiator, where as the flex fan is relatively flat at the front and the blades curve away from the radiator (unless of course if it was put on backwards!?!). The blades will flex in water very easily as well unlike the factory fan that does not. Also my adapter is STEEL not aluminum so it should hold up better/as well as the aluminum fan clutch. I'll take my chances...though I don't PLAN on fording any streams nearly 2 feet deep. (I just measured 23" from the bottom of my fan to the ground)



Here's my 86 that had over 256k miles on her little 2.5L throttle body injected 4 cylinder before trading her away.

R.I.P. Old friend:

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Heh, I'll go you one better - The FACTORY fan PULLEY on BOTH my 96 Grand Cherokee (Inline 6) and on my 97 Grand Cherokee (V8) shattered and ejected the fan into the radiator... Multiple times.

The 96 did it twice while my family owned it, once through the radiator, then a third time when the girl I sold it to had it. She sold it shortly after, but at least didn't lose the radiator again.
The 97... Tossed it and scored the radiator, but no real damage thankfully. The power steering pulleys ALSO shattered on the 97 at least twice since we have had the 97.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I'm just curious, is this flex fan designed for a gas engine with a redline of about 6500 rpm, or for a diesel engine with about a 4000rpm redline? What's the intended application, in other words.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Ha ha, I've only had this happen once and I was probably due. That's a lot of miles on her. As far as I know it was the original fan clutch. Happened at near the end of here reign, probably around 250K miles at the time. Too bad our CRD fan clutches don't last this long...LOL

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

This part number is most commonly used on 350 v8's. I'm sure the design specs exceed anything it will ever hit in our little low-revving jeeps. Like I said I used this same fan, but forward cooling (this one is reverse cooling for our application) on a 383 that hit 6500 RPM's repeatedly.

I think you may be getting at the fact it will not flex much in our application, which is true. Flex doesn't start till about 3k RPM's and it only half flexes around 4K RPM's. On my V8 it would nearly go flat at around 6k and looked almost completely flexed. Having less flex for us means better air flow, so I am fine with that as long as the economy is not hurt. Time will tell.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

I think you might have it wrong tho - They aren't supposed to flatten out due to RPM (although I'm sure that does happen to a degree) but they should be bending MORE due to heat load from the radiator - A bi-metal fan blade that has a larger-flexing metal on the leading face to force the blades into a stronger curve and pull more air.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Thats a negative. All the one's I've ever seen are just plain sheet metal, not bi-metal...they flatten, I've watched it a hundred times while tuning my carburetor and timing on my 383 by ear. It reduces drag at higher RPMS, hence the performance gain with still great cooling at low rpms. All the hot rodders, etc use them. There is no thermostat device at all in the flex fan. Though, that would be a good idea to implement. Give it more of a curve at higher temps...you should patent that if its not already out there.

The heat load doesn't cause things to bend unless there are 2 metals bonded together with different expansion rates. Like a thermostat on a heater, etc.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bimetallic_strip

"The strips are joined together throughout their length either riveting, brazing or welding. The different expansions force the flat strip to bend one way if heated, and in the opposite direction if cooled below its normal temperature. The metal with the higher coefficient of thermal expansion is on the outer side of the curve when the strip is heated and on the inner side when cooled."

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

I've slept since then, but I'm pretty sure it came out of a 1970 something GM service manual. It may not even apply to the CRD for all I know, but then again it might. I do know that I have seen used, working fan clutches leak when layed face down. If the fluid doesn't leak out it will be redistributed to the right places when the unit spins up like you said, but it could conceivably change the outcome of the test.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Interesting, yeah i had it right side up, upside down, all different ways...lol It never leaked as it is sealed. I think as long as you hold it as it should sit in the jeep for the spin test you should be good.

I DO know that when it's cold and been sitting for awhile it locks for a little bit until the engine turns it a few times...also may be due to the fluid location. You can notice this from the fan noise on a cold start that goes away after a minute or 2.

Really, the best test is on the vehicle as it would normally operate - Plus you don't have to remove the clutch or fan shroud which is annoying getting it past the hoses it hits.

A really simple and easy test...Insert cardboard right in front of radiator (behind grill) and hold at 2400 RPM's and just listen for the fan engagement. Use a scangauge or keep an eye on the coolant gauge and don't go over 225* F (5/8 on the gauge) for the test. Should lock up at 195*-205* F, and unlock at 145*-185* F Per the manual.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Personally, if I were going to test the fan clutch, I'd cover the grill and run the engine on a high idle while watching the temp gauge. The fan should clutch in before the engine gets to a dangerous level of heat. If a person had a thermometer to monitor the air temp between the radiator and fan it would be even better.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Ha ha, see edit above...lol I was adding the quick version of the proper test procedures I had in the thread on the previous page.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

With the amount of air that passes the fan clutch mechanism and the cooling fins, I wonder if the device only works by the temperature traveling along the shaft.

Also, I was curious about the electric fan for the air conditioning condenser.
Does it ever get powered to high speed for the sake of engine temperature rather than compressor pressure?

Do a/c-less trucks have this fan?

I don't know for the speed of the electric fan, do we have a multi-speed fan controller, or is it a simple "you put on the A/C and that fan is cut in with 12v" kinda system?

I guess we will find out soon. I'm thinking about pulling the clutch and engine fan this week, just to lighten the engine a bit and see what it does for temps. It has been warm in Va here for the last few days, I'm interested to see what the engine temp does (if anything different) without that in there.

I'm certainly not adverse to a flex fan for the sheer weight savings. Those iron factory fans weigh a TON on the nose of the engine.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

What about the cold weather?
I guess the thermostat better work well.
On cold mornings after chugging up hill on the way to work mine would come to temperature. On the way down the steep hill the temp indicator would drop way down.
I guess the Alaska tent better be on.
Still an interesting mod, let us see how it works out.

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms