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 Post subject: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:48 am 
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In my life, I have dropped two drive shafts, and don't want to do it again.
I have replaced lots of U Joints when I had my Auto Repair Shop (located in a dead end college town) I got out of 10 years ago and used mostly, "Dana" U Joints, with a lot of success.
Since I will be swapping out my Torque Converter for a Suncoast, Transgo Shift Kit, and the upcoming Suncoast TCM reflash.
I don't want to have my OEM U Joints go back in when I put the Drive Shaft Back in.

The first U Joint that failed was on my old Scout II when I was towing a trailer in Pontiac, MI. I removed rear drive shaft, put the Scout II in 4X4 and pulled the trailer to my parent's house and fixed the drive shaft.
The second time was many years later towing the same trailer East of Ottawa, IL with my C30 Chevy with a Perkins Turbo Diesel under the hood and Dana U Joints in the drive shaft.
Since I will be towing the same Trailer with my Liberty CRD, I want the strongest U Joints I can get, of coarse with grease fittings.

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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:07 am 
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I used Precision brand from O'Reily a couple weeks ago. They are made in the USA and lifetime guaranteed. Not that I'd probably bother trying to collect as they are only like 17 bucks, but it gives me a little piece of mind. We'll see how they hold up.

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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:28 am 
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Not that its much of a bragging point, I used the "lifetime warranty" duralast from autozone. That was about 40k miles ago. So we'll see just how many miles "lifetime" really is

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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:31 pm 
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Good news on the Duralast gold ones is they are lifetime warrantied and most are made in the usa, but they are not greasable. However the greasable duralast ones are made in china with a 2 year warranty.

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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:10 pm 
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I believe that Chrysler has an update to the rear drive shaft assembly which includes the Universal Joints, drive shaft and knuckle installed as a unit. Cost me $168.00 from MPA in November of 2009.

Also eliminated the thump sound you hear when releasing the brakes after a full stop.


30 minute install and haven't heard the thump or universal joint problem since.

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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 7:26 pm 
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Stupid question, but how easy is it to replace these things?

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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 8:40 pm 
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Another stupid question, how do I know if one is bad?


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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:28 pm 
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Quote:
To lube or not to lube

So the only remaining question is - do I use permanently sealed u-joints or re lubable u-joints (assuming there is a choice in the size/series you are using)

This is not so simple to answer, and has long been the topic of many fierce debates. It may well come down to personal preference, but there are some points to consider.

Most importantly - relubable u-joints MUST BE re lubed. It sounds obvious, but the one thing you do not want to do, is to kid yourself that you will do regular routine maintenance on your driveshaft and u-joints, and the not. And yet, this is exactly what a HUGE number of people do. Avoid it. Be honest with yourself. If you aren;t going to re lube them - use the "permanently" sealed kind, if not, you will experience premature failure.

So, we have to be brutally honest with ourselves, fine. But what if we are the kind that actually would re lube the joints EACH and EVERY time they require it, properly, completely (see Part 3), and without fail (am I making a point here? There aren;t many people who fit into this category). Is there then any reason to prefer on kind over the other? You have to decide for yourself, but some advantages and disadvantages to consider are:

Re-lubable

* (-) They have to be religiously re-lubed, a PITA
* (-) They generally are not as strong, due to the grease channels in the cross
* (-) If you lose or break a grease zerk (not uncommon) the joint is useless (you could just replace it, but it it's been out for a while, way more contaminant will have ingressed into the joint than can even be flushed out by proper lubrication
* (-) Slightly more of a pin to install, as you have to get the grease zerks in the right place and all lined up
* (+) They are generally cheaper
* (+) Depending on environment, they may last longer (if conditions are wet and muddy, the ability to purge the joint and relubricate it, may well extend the life of the joint beyond that of a joint that cannot be relubricated. However, in dry condition, this will likely be much less of a factor.

Sealed

* (-) Depending on environment, may have a reduced service life than a relubable, since nothing is ever really 100% sealed, so that if contaminants do get in, there is no way to flush them out
* (-) More expensive
* (-) A bit more of a PITA to install, as you have to make sure you have sufficient lubricant in the caps before you install the joint, since you cannot add any afterwards.
* (+) Stronger, due to absence of through-cross grease channels
* (+) Less to worry about - don't require any maintenance.


http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index4.html


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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:46 pm 
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RTStabler51 wrote:
Stupid question, but how easy is it to replace these things?


Takes some skill, you don't want to drop the needle bearings or have one slip into the cup.
The best way to tell if a U Joint is bad is to take the clamps off the yoke that attaches it to the axle or transfer case and move it by hand with out letting the cups fall off into the dirt. If it is not smooth, it is junk.
A second best way is to jack up the rear wheels, block the front wheels, put the transfer case in neutral and turn the drive shaft, slop or crunching is not acceptable.
I am leaning toward Precision Super Strong Regreasable from NAPA, the zerk is not in the cross to weaken it.
O'Reiley only sells the super strong in non regreasable.

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Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:25 pm 
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I would not want the strongest joints available. It just means something more expensive will break.

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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:53 pm 
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CATCRD wrote:
I would not want the strongest joints available. It just means something more expensive will break.


Have you experienced something else breaking with strong U Joints?

With all of the Engineering tools available Drive Shafts should only have their components like U Joints fail when they have been abused, used a lot, or neglected.
If some Dumb stupid puts a 1,000 HP engine into a Liberty and goes through the roughest off road coarse and breaks a drive line component, the debate should be weather he/she is having extreme fun or a candidate for the Darwin Awards.
I want reliability for my rig.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle


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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:18 pm 
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warp2diesel wrote:
CATCRD wrote:
I would not want the strongest joints available. It just means something more expensive will break.


Have you experienced something else breaking with strong U Joints?

With all of the Engineering tools available Drive Shafts should only have their components like U Joints fail when they have been abused, used a lot, or neglected.
If some Dumb stupid puts a 1,000 HP engine into a Liberty and goes through the roughest off road coarse and breaks a drive line component, the debate should be weather he/she is having extreme fun or a candidate for the Darwin Awards.
I want reliability for my rig.

See now you just need to learn how to engineer a "fuse" in your driveline.I know mine and carry spares of those parts and there cheap and super easy to replace.


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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 10:27 pm 
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warp2diesel wrote:
RTStabler51 wrote:
Stupid question, but how easy is it to replace these things?


Takes some skill, you don't want to drop the needle bearings or have one slip into the cup.
The best way to tell if a U Joint is bad is to take the clamps off the yoke that attaches it to the axle or transfer case and move it by hand with out letting the cups fall off into the dirt. If it is not smooth, it is junk.
A second best way is to jack up the rear wheels, block the front wheels, put the transfer case in neutral and turn the drive shaft, slop or crunching is not acceptable.
I am leaning toward Precision Super Strong Regreasable from NAPA, the zerk is not in the cross to weaken it.
O'Reiley only sells the super strong in non regreasable.



I used the Precision SuperStrength greasable joints when I did mine this week. I bought the joint for the front AND rear to do both in the driveshaft at the same time. One of the joints has the zerk in the cross...one has the zerk in the cap. The one that has the zerk in the cap ticks me off because it's the odd kind of zerk that you need a needle adapter to grease. PITA. I would much rather have the zerk in the cross, and a normal style zerk at that. Trust me...just from looking at the joints you can tell these are MUCH stronger than the OEM junk...these aren't going to break unless you really abuse them, regardless of where the zerk is located.

For the guy who asked how hard this job is.....you don't want to tackle it with basic tools. Trust me. Had the best mechanic I know with 35 years experience helping me...and the decision was made to just cut the old ones out with a torch. Way too hard to press them out on the vise...or beat them out with a hammer and risk breaking a yoke ear.

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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 10:35 pm 
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How do you cut them out with a torch? I'd be nervous to warp or cut into the flanges.

I used a vice and a few well sized sockets to press mine out and in and out and in and....

Worked pretty well, would be easier if I had 4 hands and a hydraulic press. Luckily you can drop the flange and just pull the shaft out and do it on the workbench. Can't imagine what a PITA it would have been under the jeep. Took me about an hour, being slow...then another hour of intermittent wire wheeling the shaft and painting, and dressing my hand after wire wheeling it instead of the flange...

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 Post subject: Re: Who makes the strongest rear Driveshaft U Joints
PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 7:00 pm 
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warp2diesel wrote:
CATCRD wrote:
I would not want the strongest joints available. It just means something more expensive will break.


Have you experienced something else breaking with strong U Joints?

With all of the Engineering tools available Drive Shafts should only have their components like U Joints fail when they have been abused, used a lot, or neglected.
If some Dumb stupid puts a 1,000 HP engine into a Liberty and goes through the roughest off road coarse and breaks a drive line component, the debate should be weather he/she is having extreme fun or a candidate for the Darwin Awards.
I want reliability for my rig.


I haven't, thankfully. But it stands to reason that with really strong u-joints you up the odds of breaking something else in the driveline - t-case, front diff, CV, etc. With over 300 ft-lbs stressing a marginal driveline, if I have "weak" u-joints that I can grease so the bearings never seize up again, that's good enough for me.

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RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.


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