192º Thermostat - Parts Diagram/dimensions added page 1

Squeeto · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 1:14 pm

Quote:

Unless some kind person ships (I'll pay shipping) their old thermostat for me to Kapalczynski, I guess I am out of this.

Europachris has kindly offered his thermostat for my use. So I am back in the game. :BANANA:

Thank you Chris.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:04 pm

You should include a MotoRad thermostat in the package instead of a standard type. Standard thermostats fail CLOSED (and cook your motor). MotoRads fail OPEN. Never understood why ALL thermostats are not made to only fail OPEN.

http://www.motoradusa.com/products/fail ... index.html

DOC

europachris · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:40 pm

DOC4444 wrote:

You should include a MotoRad thermostat in the package instead of a standard type. Standard thermostats fail CLOSED (and cook your motor). MotoRads fail OPEN. Never understood why ALL thermostats are not made to only fail OPEN.

http://www.motoradusa.com/products/fail ... index.html

DOC

I've actually never had a thermostat fail closed - they always fail "weak", i.e. open too early and cause the engine to run under-temp. Granted, I have pretty limited experience in vehicles....over my 25 years of driving I've only owned 3 cars, and my wife, 5 cars.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 3:07 pm

europachris wrote:

DOC4444 wrote:

You should include a MotoRad thermostat in the package instead of a standard type. Standard thermostats fail CLOSED (and cook your motor). MotoRads fail OPEN. Never understood why ALL thermostats are not made to only fail OPEN.

http://www.motoradusa.com/products/fail ... index.html

DOC

I've actually never had a thermostat fail closed - they always fail "weak", i.e. open too early and cause the engine to run under-temp. Granted, I have pretty limited experience in vehicles....over my 25 years of driving I've only owned 3 cars, and my wife, 5 cars.

X2 and I've been driving 50 years and owned more cars then I care to count.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 3:08 pm

Personal cars:
83 Lincoln Town Car,
93 Taurus,
90 Lincoln Mark VII,
01 Jetta TDI,
05 Liberty CRD
90 Chevy 454 RV

Family cars:
87 Datsun 200sx
89 Mark VII
94 Town and Country minivan
96 Grand Cherokee (I6)
97 Grand Cherokee (V8)
05 Mariner Hybrid
05 Mariner Hybrid (yep, 2 of them)

Of all of those, I've been the wrench on them except the hybrids (so far) and when a thermostat dies, it has always failed weak or open. The spring fatigues from the heat cycles and can't "spring" anymore.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 6:07 pm

So here's the thing. I have had a "failsafe" thermostat fail closed. That is the only thermostat I've ever had fail on me. "failsafe" are supposed to fail open as well...unfortunately mine didn't and I overheated on the highway on my way home. I pulled the 2 bolts, ripped the crappy thermostat out and bolted the housing back on. Only slightly leaked on the way home and made it with plenty of coolant left.

I will look into the fail safe design, but if one failed, others apparently can. I was really disappointed and am just running a regular style in my new jeep. at 10.00 a stat, easy access and only 2 bolts I can change it out every time I flush my coolant and I'm sure it will be fine. On road trips I've made it a habit to have a small set of tools with me always. Might as well have a serpentine and a thermostat too on a road trip...just in case.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 6:14 pm

Squeeto wrote:

Quote:

Unless some kind person ships (I'll pay shipping) their old thermostat for me to Kapalczynski, I guess I am out of this.

Europachris has kindly offered his thermostat for my use. So I am back in the game. :BANANA:

Thank you Chris.

Sounds like you got things figured out. Do you currently have your jeep operational or are you down because of this housing break? I'm sure others wouldn't mind If I moved you up in production to help you out. You're currently 4th on the list, but like I said I have 3 cores I can make up and I'm sure people wouldn't mind if you get it a bit sooner than the rest of them.

I am leaving Sunday (April 11th) morning for Texas on business and won't be back until 22nd of April. I do have tomorrow off though so if its an emergency and you need it pronto I can try and get one done before I leave.

Let me know man, If nothing else I do have a factory one brand new in box that you could borrow if you need one sent out today. Let me know as the post office here closes in 45 min.

- Mark

Squeeto · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 7:03 pm

I don't need the truck for a while; no rush, but thanks.
I could use your address though.
I will be checking my messages next.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 7:04 pm

Squeeto wrote:

I don't need the truck for a while; no rush, but thanks.
I could use your address though.
I will be checking my messages next.

Already PM'd you my address.

Let me know if you need a rush on the housing.

Gonna be AFK for a bit...taking a break.

I'll check in later tonite.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 7:13 pm

Got it and forwarded it on to Chris.

I know that it will probably be about a month (or more?) before I get the refurbished stat. Happy to wait.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:43 pm

The three cores I have I'll complete upon returning from my trip. I will get those out to whoever on the list is ready to buy. Since your core will be here when i get back, I'll get it done in the same batch.
- Mark

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Apr 14, 2010 3:00 pm

europachris wrote:

DOC4444 wrote:

You should include a MotoRad thermostat in the package instead of a standard type. Standard thermostats fail CLOSED (and cook your motor). MotoRads fail OPEN. Never understood why ALL thermostats are not made to only fail OPEN.

http://www.motoradusa.com/products/fail ... index.html

DOC

I've actually never had a thermostat fail closed - they always fail "weak", i.e. open too early and cause the engine to run under-temp. Granted, I have pretty limited experience in vehicles....over my 25 years of driving I've only owned 3 cars, and my wife, 5 cars.

My '98 Subaru Outback failed closed. Needed a new motor because of a $20 part.

nescosmo · **Joined:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:17 pm **Posts:** 202

If you have the idea of replacing the t stat, how long does the core last before you have to replace it.
When you replace the water pump is at 100K but if you replace the t. stat and use the old core at 100K how many more miles can you scoop from that core.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Tue Apr 20, 2010 11:22 pm

nescosmo wrote:

If you have the idea of replacing the t stat, how long does the core last before you have to replace it.
When you replace the water pump is at 100K but if you replace the t. stat and use the old core at 100K how many more miles can you scoop from that core.

I can't speak for Kapalczynski but I would think as long as the truck, since the core is just an aluminum shell. The only movable part is the actual thermostat which can be replaced every year.
The housing (core) does have some plastic hose fittings which may crack though.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Wed Apr 21, 2010 12:52 am

I too was very frustrated when I tried to replace my Tsat and found it was one integrated piece. I was even more frustrated when I realized it wasn't the problem. Instead, it was the viscous clutch in the mechanical fan. (The only way I was able to tell was side by side revving and idling of mine next to my wife's because if spun by hand, it appeared perfectly normal. The dealer tried numerous times to hunt it down after I described the problem while it was under warranty but finally declared I was imagining it.)

When I replaced my Tstat, I put a bleeder valve on the top of it. Saved me a lot of headache.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Apr 21, 2010 1:04 am

Bleeder valve? Uhm... Cool, but why?

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Wed Apr 21, 2010 2:49 am

geordi wrote:

Bleeder valve? Uhm... Cool, but why?

Because it's cool! Actually it's hot.
That is the spot where air gets trapped in the system - Which I found to be a pain in the azz to get rid of on the numerous occasions I've had to drain the system to work on this cranky mule. It's no longer an issue.
- Chris

europachris · **Posted:** Wed Apr 21, 2010 7:14 am

There is actually already a bleeder valve on the CRD....it is on the top of the radiator right by the top hose. A little black plastic knob with a flat grip tab on it. Twist half a turn and it comes loose to let the air out. Fill at the reservoir until it bubbles out the bleeder, shut the bleeder and top off the reservoir. Piece of cake.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Wed Apr 21, 2010 7:19 am

Thats interesting, I've not had that issue, just swap, add coolant and go. My friend has had issues with his dodge magnum srt8, but most dont with those cars either...his however he said ran hot after new tstat untill he got all the air out. I remember my honda had a bleeder valve from the factory and I always bled a little till there was no bubbles, can't hurt.

Check out the fan clutch replacement info on this link...a coupple pages in it also mentions test procedures for testing the fan clutch.

- Mark

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Apr 21, 2010 3:03 pm

europachris wrote:

There is actually already a bleeder valve on the CRD....it is on the top of the radiator right by the top hose. A little black plastic knob with a flat grip tab on it. Twist half a turn and it comes loose to let the air out. Fill at the reservoir until it bubbles out the bleeder, shut the bleeder and top off the reservoir. Piece of cake.

Excellent. Now I know.

192º Thermostat - Parts Diagram/dimensions added page 1

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