Timing belt - OUCH

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri May 07, 2010 8:30 am

Called the only reputable CRD dealership in the area. Got quoted $200 for the timing belt, and $500 for the labor. OUCH.

Is the CRD tool kit absolutely necessary to change this belt?? I'm going to have to do this in the next 12 months and I've already dumped thousands in repairs into this thing lately. My wife will kill me if I tell her it needs a $700 timing belt.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Fri May 07, 2010 8:43 am

There have been posts about this before viewtopic.php?f=5&t=43238. The special tools are not required but you will need to know what part these tools play and be prepared to improvise. I've not done the CRD yet, I'm only about half way at 75,000 km, but have done other engines that supposedly required such special tools.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri May 07, 2010 9:12 am

LibertyCRD wrote:

Called the only reputable CRD dealership in the area. Got quoted $200 for the timing belt, and $500 for the labor. OUCH.

Is the CRD tool kit absolutely necessary to change this belt?? I'm going to have to do this in the next 12 months and I've already dumped thousands in repairs into this thing lately. My wife will kill me if I tell her it needs a $700 timing belt.

About right for a timing belt.You also want to figure in new tensioner,idlers(if there is any) and a new water pump while it's all torn apart,so add about another $200 or so to that cost.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri May 07, 2010 10:20 am

5.3 hours labor.

plus parts

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Fri May 07, 2010 11:55 am

THat price don't sound that bad to me either. just make sure the water pump is done at the same time while that is appart it will save you to have it done so its not needed to pay labor to take the same stuff apart.

I had an estimate given on the outback I traded for the jeep. $1100-1200 for a timing belt and tensioner, water pump, new front cam seals and new coolant. the cam seal were an extra add in needed for the subaru cus they leak oil by 140k if you don't change them at 105 with the belt. we shouldn't need that. so 700-900 seems good

dkenny · **Posted:** Fri May 07, 2010 7:02 pm

possible to change without the special tools..yes..but if you plan on changing the water pump..
buy the 2 locking pins..otherwise forget it. I think these around $50 for the pair.

I think it would be easier with the locking pins. when i did my wife's I had the CP3 pulley loose. if this wasn't the case I'm not sure it can be done.

I didn't do the water pump or idlers because the jeep has only 53K miles on it. I also didn't drain or remove the radiator.

another thought $700 doesn't sound too bad..I got the belt for $140 from one the places listed on the timing belt parts list threads. labor..after doing it $500 seems reasonable.

-dkenny

stoutdog · **Posted:** Fri May 07, 2010 7:55 pm

If you feel like doing it yourself and saving $500, GDE rents the tools for $20 (plus a $100 refundable deposit).

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri May 07, 2010 10:03 pm

Good to know. thanks for the advice.

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Sat May 08, 2010 1:04 am

No offense but this happens once every 100,000 miles. That doesnt seen like to much to spend to me every 8 years!

jinstall · **Posted:** Sat May 08, 2010 9:35 am

Once every 4 years for me. I have racked almost 50K in less than 18 months.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sat May 08, 2010 11:25 am

Mine is almost half way to that service. I hope to have it nearly paid off or totally paid off by then and plan to have money saved in advance for the job so its not a big shock to my wallet or I have to put it off longer than I would be comfortable with. I am not sure who I will get to do mine, dealer or maybe I will find a good diesel mechanic until then.

willymopit · **Posted:** Sat May 08, 2010 6:51 pm

Just throwing in my $0.02.

I would strongly recommend you not change just a belt unless you KNOW the idler/tensioner bearing are in very good shape. I've had a premature belt failure (60k miles) on a GM OHC (interference head of course) engine due to a seized idler. That little bearing cost me a new engine head (bent valves) and alot of unnecessary time under the hood.

Ahhh, the days of timing CHAINS! Granted I don't want a chain the size of an OHC engine timing belt flying around in there! :lol:

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun May 09, 2010 9:52 pm

The moral of the story is that any fuel economy advantage is easily over-ridden by the cost of maintenance on this things. You have to love diesel, because financially there is zero benefit.

Well...I will start saving up the money and will likely be doing this in the next 12 months as I am coming up on 100K faster than I thought.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun May 09, 2010 11:28 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

The moral of the story is that any fuel economy advantage is easily over-ridden by the cost of maintenance on this things. You have to love diesel, because financially there is zero benefit.

Well...I will start saving up the money and will likely be doing this in the next 12 months as I am coming up on 100K faster than I thought.

A real diesel uses chains or is gear to gear.Timing belts are for honda's.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun May 09, 2010 11:34 pm

What a troll.

Oh, and learn how to use apostrophes.

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Fri May 14, 2010 8:11 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

The moral of the story is that any fuel economy advantage is easily over-ridden by the cost of maintenance on this things. You have to love diesel, because financially there is zero benefit.

Well...I will start saving up the money and will likely be doing this in the next 12 months as I am coming up on 100K faster than I thought.

I dont see how this is accurate. So far the only issues Im having to deal with will be the timing belt. Its years away. Im getting in the 30's on the highway and mid twentys around town. The gasser KJ's I know of are in the 12 to 14 range around town. There is a clear benefit to the CRD.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri May 14, 2010 11:00 pm

CRD Joe wrote:

LibertyCRD wrote:

The moral of the story is that any fuel economy advantage is easily over-ridden by the cost of maintenance on this things. You have to love diesel, because financially there is zero benefit.

Well...I will start saving up the money and will likely be doing this in the next 12 months as I am coming up on 100K faster than I thought.

I dont see how this is accurate. So far the only issues Im having to deal with will be the timing belt. Its years away. Im getting in the 30's on the highway and mid twentys around town. The gasser KJ's I know of are in the 12 to 14 range around town. There is a clear benefit to the CRD.

Around here, gassers are averaging 16-17 MPG and CRDs are averaging low 20s. So the fuel savings for the average person is about 50-100 bucks per month. In the 4 months I've had this CRD, a total near $2,000 has been spent keeping it on the road. So the fuel economy savings is EASILY wiped out by the upkeep.

Factor in that oil is more expensive, and there are more delicate parts such as the turbo to worry about, there is thread after thread about EGR problems, dumping hundreds on the timing belt, TC problems, and the truth is you are NOT saving money over the life of the vehicle by driving a CRD rather than a gas KJ. We drive them because we love the diesel torque.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri May 14, 2010 11:11 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

Around here, gassers are averaging 16-17 MPG and CRDs are averaging low 20s. So the fuel savings for the average person is about 50-100 bucks per month. In the 4 months I've had this CRD, a total near $2,000 has been spent keeping it on the road. So the fuel economy savings is EASILY wiped out by the upkeep.

Factor in that oil is more expensive, and there are more delicate parts such as the turbo to worry about, there is thread after thread about EGR problems, dumping hundreds on the timing belt, TC problems, and the truth is you are NOT saving money over the life of the vehicle by driving a CRD rather than a gas KJ. We drive them because we love the diesel torque.

Total shock from a CRD guy:shock: :shock:

Heck I'm getting 14-15mpg(city) turning 35" tires that weigh 116lbs each (wheel tire combo).

stoutdog · **Posted:** Sat May 15, 2010 1:00 am

LibertyCRD wrote:

CRD Joe wrote:

LibertyCRD wrote:

The moral of the story is that any fuel economy advantage is easily over-ridden by the cost of maintenance on this things. You have to love diesel, because financially there is zero benefit.

Well...I will start saving up the money and will likely be doing this in the next 12 months as I am coming up on 100K faster than I thought.

I dont see how this is accurate. So far the only issues Im having to deal with will be the timing belt. Its years away. Im getting in the 30's on the highway and mid twentys around town. The gasser KJ's I know of are in the 12 to 14 range around town. There is a clear benefit to the CRD.

Around here, gassers are averaging 16-17 MPG and CRDs are averaging low 20s. So the fuel savings for the average person is about 50-100 bucks per month. In the 4 months I've had this CRD, a total near $2,000 has been spent keeping it on the road. So the fuel economy savings is EASILY wiped out by the upkeep.

Factor in that oil is more expensive, and there are more delicate parts such as the turbo to worry about, there is thread after thread about EGR problems, dumping hundreds on the timing belt, TC problems, and the truth is you are NOT saving money over the life of the vehicle by driving a CRD rather than a gas KJ. We drive them because we love the diesel torque.

I get 27 in town, 32 on the highway. That is at least 10mpg better in both categories than nearly every gasser KJ on the road, which saves me $10-15 a fill up. Total cost of upkeep, besides normal maintenance (oil, filters, etc.) in my 8k miles of ownership? $99.95 for a window regulator. So far, I've come out on top.

I've done some things out of personal preference (GDE, Amsoil filter, new Mopar fuel filter, Samcos - my OEM hoses were fine, etc.). But I've yet to experience a problem with the engine itself *knock on wood*. All my "mods" have been for performance and prevention, as many people do to other vehicles as well. No money pit here :SOMBRERO:

yakers · **Posted:** Sat May 15, 2010 2:05 am

I'm sort of neutral whether the CRD will ever pay off financially if a regular KJ would do. But for me the torque is particularly good for towing, although not up to the bashing my XJ Cherokee gets off road it is still OK off road and in winter weather. The long distance covered on a tank of fuel was a critical element on a trip I took to the Canadian & Alaskan Arctic. So far I have not had any problems. I did do some preventative things like adding the SAMCO hoses, the ones I took off looked pretty good, running Provent and was running ORM now GDE ecotune. I have 72K miles on my 06, original TC and I tow a bit. I just love this Jeep, its the one I always wanted. I run some % biodiesel when I can find it. Don't know how long it will last but I am hoping for a long, long time.

Timing belt - OUCH

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