I have a very similar situation as Turbo Tim. It appears that I am being victimized by a lack of knowledge about the Liberty CRD.

About three months ago I took my 2005 CRD to a repair shop I have used for many years (but only for gassers before I owned the CRD) because the thing was hesitating badly and belching big clouds of black smoke. The shop determined that the EGR valve and turbo needed to be replaced...for the small fee of $3,000!! From what I've read in this forum, I probably wasted a whole bunch of money.

The story gets even better. I took the CRD in for my first emission test last month. As was the case for Turbo Tim, I had a hard time convincing everyone that worked there that it was, in fact, a Jeep Liberty with a DIESEL engine. None of them had ever seen such a thing before. Well, they ran it on the rollers for the dyno test and it failed the opacity test (I must have over-looked the part of the owner's manual that states that the rollers will cause problems with the traction control and/or ABS systems). As I pulled the vehicle out of the testing bay, the ABS light came on (now I know why), but it went off after a short period of time.

My shop that replaced the turbo said they did not have the equipment to test for diesel emissions, so I would have to get a dealer to fix it. I took it to a dealer and they have told me that it needs $4,000 in repairs, but that I should be able to get it fixed "good enough" to pass emissions for $1,695 plus tax!!

I was on the verge of basically junking the CRD, but then I started to do some searching on the Internet and I found this forum!! I could really use some help on what my next step(s) should be. Do you, Turbo Tim (or anyone else in the Phoenix area), know of a mechanic that is knowledgeable enough to work on CRDs? Or, is this going to be a DIY job in order to save the life of my CRD (and save my sanity)? I do have some experience working on gas engines, but I'm not familiar enough with diesels to jump under the hood and start pulling hoses and swapping parts. Nevertheless, I follow instructions very well.

Thanks in advance!

I have a hard time believing that it failed the opacity test if there was no smoke visible to you. If memory serves, the federal opacity test allows up to 20%. 20% is some really dark exaust. Your level should be printed on your paperwork. They may have failed you because of the CEL which they tripped. What are your symptoms, if any? If you can't see great clouds of black smoke coming out the tail pipe, try going back for the test with a tank of biodiesel. It really cuts the smoke level down.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

Run biodiesel next time... Also, ask the dealer what "needs" to be fixed to reach the minimum and what "needs" to be fixed overall. I'm curious, as dealers are often as inexperienced with CRDs as your run of the mill mechanic. Let us know what they say.

For a good mechanic, diesel only, try Reliable Diesel in Mesa. They are more a Cummins/Power Stroke kind of place, but they at least know the engine type (and charge a reasonable price).

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

According to the dealer's "diesel specialist," the CCV filter is saturated with oil, causing oil to enter the turbo, intake, emissions/charge, and boost air systems. He recommends replacing the CCV filter, inner cooler, and charge hose. He also recommends cleaning soot and debris from the intake and EGR system, replacing the fuel filter, and possibly replacing the "clogged EGR and cooler." (The EGR was just replaced three months ago). Finally, he says that the throttle does not appear to be operating as it should, and eventually needs to be replaced to the tune of $1,220.

As for the results of the emissions test, the opacity reading was a whopping 62.9%!! You are correct that the federal opacity standard is 20%. I was watching the tail pipe as they were running the Jeep on the rollers and saw a little black smoke at times, but it certainly wasn't what I would call really dark exhaust.

This part is normal and can be made worse if too much oil is being put in. The dip stick is marked wrong. The engine takes depending where your reading is 6.3 or 6.4 quarts of oil.

If you have a charged air hose leaking that can cause smoking You need to remove both charged air hoses and check them thourgly for leaks and replace as needed.
How do you normally drive the jeep? If you use a soft pedal and rarley flog it down the expressway then maybe a good hard run using Bio as suggested in the strongest ratio you can get then retest it.

If the EGR were bad you would have a cel that you've not indicated that you do.

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Unfortunately, it doesn't appear that biodiesel is readily available here in the Phoenix area. There are a couple of stations in town, but neither of them are anywhere near where I live. It might be worth the trip to fill up on bio before the next emissions test, though.

Does anyone have an opinion on the Liberty repair manuals sold by Repair Pro Manuals for $16.99 on eBay? Are they well produced and accurate, or are there better repair manual options?

AZ Biodiesel in Gilbert is good... Probably worth the trip.

Joe's probably right. I'd run it hard to burn off any excess oil that may be in the system from an unintentional overfill and check the hoses for ruptures.

Without a Provent or EHM, there will always be some level of oil running through that system; that's no surprise. And without the ORM, SEGR, or GDE Tune there will always be some soot. The two together = caked up sensors/hoses. Clean what you can and install at least one of the five things I just mentioned. That should fix most of the problems you are experiencing.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

This may have already been done in one of the other forum threads, but can you possibly prioritize the five "fixes" you mentioned (Provent, EHM, ORM, SEGR, GDE Tune) in terms of how much impact it can have on improving vehicle emissions?

This is entirely opinion:

- GDE (kills EGR expect in one rare situation for safety/engine durability; no soot will enter the engine, as this situation involved gasses going out the EGR, not in) - lots of other benefits make it worth the extra $150-200 over the SEGR
- SEGR (completely kills EGR function)
- ORM (SEGR with a CEL light)
- Provent (a little oil is not harmful and is common in many diesel engines)
- EHM (Provent, but releases CCV vapors into the air and tends to drip oil on your driveway)

Some would argue that you need both an EGR and a CCV mod. Personally, I feel that the combination of soot and oil is the true problem, and that the soot is by far the worse of the two.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

Another thing I just remembered that I don't think has been mentioned besides the air cleaner and that's the MAP sensor
Here's something from the newbie FAQ section
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50930

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

So they do not have an AWD set of rollers? What do they do for AWD cars? These are probably the same ones that propped a Diablo on a set of RWD rollers adn gave it gas and snapped the front driveshaft.

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No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.

Does your Jeep drive well? I can't believe they did all that work and it still needs more. You better read this site more and catch up. That's insane money for this engine if you could still get down the road.

Hoses and filter are easy DIY jobs that can have a huge impact. EGR I can believe, but the turbo sounds like a snow job. Did you keep the old one?

Read about ORM more. The EHM is ok, but I stopped after my GDE tune last month. I agree that the limp mode could have been a problem with the test.

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2005 Black KJ Sport CRD,
GDE Full Torque ECO TUNE, GDE Transmission ECO Tune,
Samco British Racing Green Hoses
Build Date 1/05
200k miles.
Original Owner

Ok, "Diesel Specialist" in this case is code for "Hose job Specialist". The CCV valve is not a filter. It has some condensation media in it, but it is not a filter. They are all loaded with oil within five minutes of leaving the factory. This is the reason that we all have oil in the intake system. Why on earth would the intercooler need to be replaced? I haven't known of any with holes yet. If the CAC hoses are sweating oil, then yes they will eventually need replacement. Possibly one of them has a small leak now which could be causing a slight power loss and darker than normal smoke ( a big tear is instantly noticeable). For less than $200 and in less than an hour, you can replace them both yourself but the job is very messy. As for cleaning the intake gunk; just clean the MAP sensor. If you get a GDE tune the EGR will be disabled and gunk will no longer be a problem. The oil coming from the CCV is harmless in itself(except to the original hoses) but when it mixes with the soot from the EGR, you get gunk. oops I have to leave for work, more later....Ok I'm back.

Replacing the fuel filter is always a good idea and costs $30. If you don't have a CEL lit up, your EGR is functioning just fine. How he figures that the EGR cooler is clogged is a real mystery and should be in a museum as the first one ever to clog and leave the rest of the cooling system untouched. As a "diesel Specialist" he ought to know that no Diesel engine in history has ever had a "throttle". I wonder if he is referring to the FCV which costs no where near $1220 to replace.

Get away from that dealer and either fix it yourself of find a real mechanic. I will let someone else find the links to the step by step instructions to CAC hose replacement, MAP cleaning, fuel filter replacement, lift pump install, etc because I've just worked all night and want to sleep.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

Thanks to everyone for your advice. I feel like I've been raped by the dealer! Fortunately, you all have helped me get my beloved CRD back, so to speak. I'm looking forward to jumping in and working on it...and then I'll stick my oily middle finger up at the dealership! I'll post a follow-up message later to let you all know how things went.

I have one last question before I go, where is the best place to buy parts for my CRD?

Depends on what part, but moparpartsamerica.com generally has the cheapest parts. My local Jeep dealer matches all their prices if I show them the online price. Crap. I'm still awake.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

I would go get a retest at a different facility if possible. 62% sounds a little bogus to me. Ok, a lot bogus.
Make sure that they DO NOT put it on the rollers as it will throw the ABS CEL on and the Brakes as it thinks it is in a skid. If they have a fit, then run it until the lights come on (which will be very quickly) and then reach over and pull the key out of the ignition. Tell the nice man that it is not a requirement to tear up your equipment for this test. Obviously this is not a normal condition as the lights were off at the beginning of the test, and now on during the test!
Case in point: Ask them how they check the Cadillac Northstars on the rollers? Or the new Mercedes? They shut the car down now! (Just to name a few).

Opacity is just that. How black is the exhaust? It is possible that they were trying to run the engine harder with the CEL’s on. That would not be a certifiable or acceptable test. Go get the nice mans supervisor. Have them call headquarters and ask how many DIESEL JEEP’s they have tested before this way? You could even upset him a little and demand to see the IM240 spec for a diesel Jeep.

I take my CRD to AZ Mobile Auto Repair in Mesa. They're experienced in both fleet and passenger diesels. They even designed an EGR cooler for Ford Powerstrokes that sells quite well. I downloaded the service manuals and gave the owner the link to this forum's technical section.

http://www.azmobileautorepair.com/index.html

I buy my bio at Western States Petroleum downtown. It used to be virgin soy. Now it's converted WVO. BQ-9000 certified and meets ASTM specs.

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2006 CRD Limited Dk Khaki
InMotion S-II, GDE TCM, Cummins Lift Pump, Mishimoto CAC hoses
Cooper Discoverer ATP LT245/75, Rola roof basket, JCR S3 sliders
OME lift+JBA UCA's, custom front hitch receiver, Mile Marker winch
All J Products rear cargo shelf
Sips biodiesel as if it were 12 y/o Scotch

Wow, how did I miss this shop?!? They're only 3-4 blocks from my apartment..... I need to have my routine brakes/AC/etc. checkup in the next couple of weeks, so I'll just drop by there and see what they can offer. Thanks.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

God bless Kentucky.

When I brought my CRD into my home state from Ohio, and had it inspected, the only thing they checked for was that it had 4 tires and it wasn't on fire. Emissions test? What's that?

Good story though. It's interesting to hear what fellow owners are going through.

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2005 Stone White KJ Limited CRD 4x4
Off-Road Pkg
Trac-Lok
Emu 790s/948s
Skyjacker H7088s rear/Bilsteins front
15x7 Black Rock Lobos/31x10.50 Firestones
GDE HOT Tune + TCM Tune
Euro TC
CB radio
Thrush Turbo muffler
AEM DryFlow filter

Rand Paul.

Granted, not far from Gov Brewer, the AZ legislature, and Sheriff Joe, but still.

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2006 CRD Limited Dk Khaki
InMotion S-II, GDE TCM, Cummins Lift Pump, Mishimoto CAC hoses
Cooper Discoverer ATP LT245/75, Rola roof basket, JCR S3 sliders
OME lift+JBA UCA's, custom front hitch receiver, Mile Marker winch
All J Products rear cargo shelf
Sips biodiesel as if it were 12 y/o Scotch