Our TS and the one that Kap found are the same type - They have two expansion parts, instead of just one. So his re-design will do the same things, in the same ways as the original... But once you buy the housing once... You never have to again. The replacement TS is only a few bucks from then on, just like it should have been originally.

To answer your other question, the size of the bypass (when it is opened) flows the same IIRC as the main outlet (when that is opened instead). Too bad there isn't such a thing as a temperature-operated Y valve... That would have solved ALL this silliness in one throw.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Thanks for the input.

I still have the oem TS in place and added the inline 195* in between the oem and radiator (upper hose). So the oem TS is still regulating bypass but there is only a small flow to the radiator untill the inline opens @ 195*. It is all working good and the increased operating temp is yielding better mileage, which was my reason for experimenting.

There is an increase in pressure between the pump and inline unit, caused when the oem TS opens (closing the bypass) and the higher temp inline has not opened yet. Originally, my worry was blowing the hose, but it turns out the pump is not capable of producing pressure anywhere high enough to do that. But now I am worried that even a small increase in pressure may cause cavitation in the pump? I hadn't thought of that, so I may end up requesting to get on the list.

As for the antifreeze, the owners manual says to use HOAT (hybrid organic additive technology). As far as I can tell, its the red stuff. It also advises not run propylene glycol.

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Life's short - Play hard

Cam sprockets do not need to be removed to replace thermostat...just 3 bolts on side of engine. Once new design thermostat is in, it is just 2 easy bolts on top of housing to swap thermostat, no hose disconnections, easy to get to.

I believe the inline hose thermostat was discussed earlier in this thread, it doesn't perform the same function of the factory with the bypass. Please look back in the thread for more info on that.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Thanks for all your hard work. As I mentioned earlier, your method is superior and definitely the way to go. I was well into my mod before I knew you were working on this.

Is 192* the hotest thermostat available that you could find?

I will watch to see what others report concerning any mpg increase.

Thanks again,
Dave

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Life's short - Play hard

I realize the main need is to replace failed oem t-stats and servicability. But approaching this subject purely from a mpg standpoint, I figure I need to see a 1/2 mpg increase. Based on my 12,000 miles per year, a 7 year payback, speculating the price of diesel @ an average of $3.00/gal during those 7 years (dreaming?); a .35 mpg increase is break even.

Based on my experience with the inline, I believe I am seeing over a 1 mpg increase with the 195* t-stat.

I would love to install your unit with a 212* t-stat.

How many do you have out there so far?

We need mpg reports!

Dave

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Life's short - Play hard

Mr. K is still working on these tstats, nobody but him has driven with one yet. I believe we arrived at the decision to use 192* on the recommendation of the folks at GDE, as the European CRDs use that temp.

As for payback, this new unit will cost about the same as replacing a broken old one - so the cost benefit is already equalled out. After that, it saves you ~$90 every time you have to replace a dead tstat. Mpg gains aside, it's a smart move...

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

How close is he to having these T-stats ready to install and test in the real world?? Any idea? I'm needing to do something soon I think. Mine is getting worse...

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2005 Stone White KJ Limited CRD 4x4
Off-Road Pkg
Trac-Lok
Emu 790s/948s
Skyjacker H7088s rear/Bilsteins front
15x7 Black Rock Lobos/31x10.50 Firestones
GDE HOT Tune + TCM Tune
Euro TC
CB radio
Thrush Turbo muffler
AEM DryFlow filter

He just got back from his trip and has at least one other thing to do first. I know because we exchanged a few PMs. The good part is that the design is probably complete.

He has yet to machine the last (bottom) piece or test it. I think the test could be done in a pot of water though.

I think it's awesome that he's working on this and is willing to try and make them for members. Very kind of him.


However, I personally would like to see the units actually field tested for a decent amount of time to make sure they work as expected and do not pose any danger to the engine. Not that I don't trust him.. I just don't have any possible way to put a $3,500 engine in this thing if something goes wrong.

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2005 Stone White KJ Limited CRD 4x4
Off-Road Pkg
Trac-Lok
Emu 790s/948s
Skyjacker H7088s rear/Bilsteins front
15x7 Black Rock Lobos/31x10.50 Firestones
GDE HOT Tune + TCM Tune
Euro TC
CB radio
Thrush Turbo muffler
AEM DryFlow filter

I have adequate understanding of the mod and am happy to test it.
Total confidence and $ already sent.

Zerex G-05 is what you need for any late model Chrysler including our jeeps. It's more orange then red and NAPA carries it
http://www.valvoline.com/products/brand ... ifreeze/42

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Yep, there was only 2 choices based on the physical size I needed to fit the housing. Its been quite a project to make everything work. I have been running one in my jeep with the 192* for several months now. Mine doesn't have the adapter piece inside to completely seal off the bypass and absoultely no temp issues at all stays right in the middle no matter how I drive. .

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Its not about making your money back for the ~100.00 part, its designed to be an alternative replacement at roughly the same price as an OEM unit with added benefit of easier maintenance an possibly a bit of economy gain. I'm not sure how much of a mpg gain, but I will compare the two when all is said and done. ANY mpg increase is free money if your thermostat was already bad and in need of replacement...which happens frequently on these jeeps it seems.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

That is correct, Mark at GDE mentioned a 192 would be better for economy and wondered why they didn't come with that temp already.

I do not believe the euro jeeps run 192* temp though. Mark said he contacted the manufacturer of our thermostat housing and asked about a special 192* replacement and it wasn't available. Maybe the newer jeeps run that over there now, but it is a different part all-together or something?

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Everything has fallen into place so far. The units just need a last piece machined for them. I have been running an older version that doesn't have the piece that allows for the full block-off of the bypass port. This is the part I am going to machine hopefully this weekend if all goes well. Just been SOO busy lately. We sold a car, are preparing another car to sell, just bought a car and just got back from vacation. Have to catch up on life before I'm allowed to do the fun stuff like this.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Well, for the summer here in Michigan, my Jeep seems to hit close to operating temp with the AC on, so I can wait for a little bit. I would love to have one of these though (when you're ready) before winter. This post has been a great read, and a great testament to LOSTKJ website members.

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2005 Black KJ Sport CRD,
GDE Full Torque ECO TUNE, GDE Transmission ECO Tune,
Samco British Racing Green Hoses
Build Date 1/05
200k miles.
Original Owner

Waiting patiently and hoping to see something soon. I'm driving in rush-hour traffic in 90+ degree Atlanta heat with the AC on having a hard time keeping it in the operating range. I found that driving the temps up with the AC on high INCREASED my fuel econmy slightly

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

Driving home last night, S.W. Michigan to Oak Brook area outside of Chicago, and hit an incredible Thunder/Rainstorm. We're talking torrential. At any rate, traffic slowed because of visibility, and after being blinded by one of the lightning flashes, glanced at the speed and temp meters. Way low! Is it possible that huge amounts of rain are able to cool the block, or is this the beginning of the end for my t-stat?

Probably on its way out. I just replaced my tstat and its rock solid straight up like morning wood. Before I changed it out it would vary from 1/4 to 1/2, most of the time I couldn't get the engine up over 160. Only way to keep it at 180 was with the A/C on.

Mr. k, I have a housing I can send when your ready.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

I'm back


First of all, and this goes to everyone following this thread...sorry I haven't been on in awhile...yard work...lots of yard work. More to come too. Sod, landscaping back yard (just dirt right now), and sprinkler system to come hopefully all this summer.

Needless to say I just HAD to take time away from work and the house work, etc to work on this some more. It is my little escape from the real world...and besides I was starting to feel guilty that I was letting you all down.

I took a couple hours to design and machine a couple of the adapter seals as we talked about earlier. I just pressed one in a housing and everything worked perfect. Project should continue under way soon. I currently need to machine 4 more adapters and press them all in and things will be ready to ship. However I will want to install the newly designed thermostat with the adapter on MY jeep first of course...not to make you all jealous, but to ensure it works as planned and to monitor temps for awhile.

Not sure if you all were aware I have been running the first version of modified thermostat housing with the 192* and w/o this adapter for probably over 6 months now. No issues at all and still plugging away good economy. I really don't expect any problems whatsoever with the new design either since it doesn't really change anything other than making the bypass more efficient.

Anyway...enough talk, heres some pics.









As you all can see, the original adapter seal design was changed from the one in this picture. Here's why:
1) simpler to machine
2) cheaper (less material)
3) the original longer design would not work due to a slight taper in the area it was getting pressed into.

It took me 2 1/2 hrs to design and machine the first prototype piece and it pressed in flawlessly with the 20 ton shop press. Just have to make a few more and assemble the housings. Then we are back in business.

Unfortunately its 3:45am and I don't want to operate the saw to cut some more material and wake up the wife. Probably about time for me to go to bed anyway.

Talk to you all soon,

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)