My rig has been overheating to the point that the chime activates. Dealer says that it might be the thermostat. Is there anything else that could cause this? I live in the high desert so it's hot out and have a 2000' elevation change just going to town and back. Any suggestions?

Mileage?

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Sorry, 71,000 miles

I'd start by making sure the fans are working; one of which (the clutch fan? - I don't know the fan system very well) should kick in when the temps start to climb like that...

If all fans are working properly, it's probably the tstat (it probably is anyways, but the fans shouldn't be hard to check...). Did this just happen suddenly? If the tstat breaks closed, keeping coolant from circulating, then you should notice a fairly sudden and sharp spike in temps, rendering the vehicle almost pretty much.undriveable

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

05 or 06

There were a number of 05's that had bad fan cultches from the git go. They seem to be working but sitting next to one that works correctly it's night and day difference

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

05, blue, AT, pwr everything, stock everything...

fan appears to be working fine but since I own the only CRD in 50miles I can't chase someone down and say "hey can I listen to your fan???

New Tstat is my guess, $98.00 for the part and if you do the work yourself then add a few hours for removal and installation.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

you have 2 fans - one's electric - tends to turn on with the AC - the other's mechanical - rotates slowly while the engine's running - until water temp is about ~200 and then it should get loud and turn fast ~engine speed.
The bad clutch keeps the mechanical one from turning 'on'
there's a specific test - but Kap pulled his out and went with a solid connector.
here's the test - and he updated the beginning of the thread to his fix.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=575149#p575149


(the thermostats that folks have complained about - failed open - and stayed cold in the winter)

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Do you have a scantool? You may have one that the temp gauge has not been reprogrammed (like mine).

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SOLD 2005-Eco & TCM tune-no elec fan-F37-#3 TC
Now have 2009 Durango

Good idea ATXKJ. I'll go out now and run this test on the clutch fan. No scan tool. But I believe Dr. McCoy has one! I'm pretty sure my gauges were reprogrammed as the dealership put a sticker on the underside of my hood that says in Dec. 06 they replaced the torque converter, reprogrammed the ECM and TCM (whatever those mean) and something about recall F32, Dealer Code 68840.

Okay I did the test for checking the clutch fan in the sun at 80deg. F and though I never heard a loud whooshing noise when it turned on, I did hear a low rumble and the clutch fan did speed up at 200-201deg F. and the temp immediately started to drop even with the fan blocked. Also It took like 20-30 minutes for the rig to reach this temperature even after blocking the radiator and putting a giant moving blanket covering the front and underneath, and the thermostat gauge still never went past the half way mark.

So... I'm starting to think that it's not the thermostat either as this would have heated up much quicker in my opinion. I'm now wondering if the tranny cooler is causing the overheating. What would cause the tranny to run so hot?

You might also want to check if your brakes are locking on. If a caliper is seized or is seizing intermittently while you are driving, the engine finds itself working against the brakes - temps go up. It seems to be what has happened to mine at the weekend. If you have the auto box, when the engine is hot, and you are in drive - does the jeep creep forward or does it stay put?

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Light Khaki 2.8CRD: TJM alloy bumper; Skid Row &Asfir skids;ext. breathers; SAMCO hoses; Grabber At3 235/70/16; Fumoto; Euro TC; Odyssey PC1500;GDE FTEcotune; OME lift; lightforce driving lights;ARB diff cover;nylon fan+Hayden2905;ss vortex exhaust; Airflow snorkel; Frontrunner roofrack; rock rails

I'll check tomorrow. Going fishing. Took it to the dealers and had them flash the temp gauges for the updated temps. Also added a tube of the Dr Tranny instant shudder fix. So far looking good but tomorrow will be a better test as I'm towing a 19' Starcraft and returning home I have a 6 mile long grade at 6% plus I unplugged my MAF and removed and cleaned my MAP sensor (it was completely clogged up). Learning all kinds of tricks on this forum!!! Hopefully soon I'll be able to get the GDE ecotune and a new torque converter.

so what happen did she over heat any more????

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05 crd, old man emu, jeepin by al upper control arms, spider track wheel spacers, bf mud terrain t/a, full 3'' with a magnaflow exhaust,rocky road super sliders,skid row gas tank cover,surco roof rack with hella 500 lights,front hooks,b&m trans cooler!