6" CRD Lift, possible for around $4k?

PathFinder7 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 17, 2010 11:22 pm

Ok, I'm just getting my CRD and I am thinking of putting on a 6" lift. I have been looking at JBA's 6" Lift Kit, but it is through the roof. I totaled it up and it will cost over $6,200!!! Ouch.Now, the odd thing is that I shopped around for the parts separately on his site and came closer to $4,000. I'm sure I'm missing some things, but here is what I've got:

-Rear 6" Springs
-Rear LT Shocks
-Long Rear Control Arms
-Rear Control Arm Mounts
-Rear Axle Link Extension
-Front Struts and Springs
-SS Extended Brake Hoses
-Shaved CV Axles
-Blocks for the K member and transmission x-member
-Steering knuckle extensions

Obviously this is not a list I just made up, it's the one from Al's site. Even with the coilovers ($1500!!!) This still came to just over $4k. I can do $4k, just not so fond of the $6500 part. I can save even more by having my stock axles shaved. If I could put together a reliable 6" lift kit for the CRD for around $4k, I would be very happy.

If anyone has any input or suggestions for this I would be VERY grateful. If not, I will probably see what Marlin can do for me at JBA.

Thanks a lot for all the info and wisdom.

-Rob

KJ 119 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 17, 2010 11:36 pm

From the looks of your sig,you're allready setup as good as one can expect out of a CRD.
I'm not trying to be a buzzkill,but if you are willing to dump that much,go SFA. :2cents:

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Jul 18, 2010 8:31 am

It's not clear to me that "a reliable 6" lift kit for the CRD " exists.

Al's might be a reasonable collection of parts - but even at that I'm pretty sure you are the R&D group, and in the end you'll spend at least 2x what you thought.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Jul 18, 2010 9:16 am

Have to agree with all of the above.
Plus something else you want to think about
tires what size are you going to "try" and run
then the front diff itself, bigger tires =front diff not holding up possibly
regearing, yes you will need to with taller tires for sure
Then the question why? With what you can do with a CRD with the lift you have are you going to really gain that much with 6 inches, sounds like a lot but for the time, money and headaches involved is it worth it?
Just saying and my :2cents:

PathFinder7 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 18, 2010 12:16 pm

Bub, my sig is a V6 gasser. I'm picking up the CRD next weekend. If there was a decent SFA kit that I could buy reliably and still use as a daily driver, I would consider it. I am a firm believer in the benefits of independent suspension if properly designed, being a soldier for 18 years, the HMMWV has gotten me into, and out of, some amazing places. It's not that I'm trying to just throw money at the Jeep, it's that I want to set it up as best as I can in the beginning, without having it sit for 6 months waiting on parts and work. This will still be my only vehicle in the end.

Tom,

Al recommends 285/75R16 as the max size. I have yet to speak to him in depth regarding the pros and cons yet. I suppose there is always a weak link in any chain, I'm just trying to identify it ahead of time so I can budget accordingly. If the front diff is the next week link, then perhaps I should put the steel one on the list too. Not that I can necessarily afford all of this, but if I can crunch the numbers of how to do something like this "properly", then I am LESS surprised. :shock:

As for the regearing, I have not really considered that. I do have 4.10s in my current axle setup but figured the CRD would make enough torque to overcome 33" tires without too much of an issue. I could just remove them and put them in the CRD, if you guys think it would be benificial.

I honestly can't say if it will be worth it, I'm sure it will look awesome and it needs to be functional, I hit some very rough trails every weekend. I mean, in the end is it worth modding a Liberty at all? Everyone here seems to think so, including myself. There are many more vehicles more capable and tested, but I happen to like the lil' Jeep, I'm just trying to gather some data to take it to the next level. I may be the R&D, but someone has to do it right?

And as for why, the clearance sucks right now. It scrapes and drags on everything with a 2.5"-ish lift. One would assume with an extra 3.5" of clearance and the additional 1-2" of tire that I could more easily clear obstacles. And let us not forget the pure style of a properly lifted Libby. Sexy beast.

Thanks for all your input, please keep it coming. I am far from an expert on these machines and I am open to all constructive information you guys can provide. -Rob

InCommando · **Posted:** Sun Jul 18, 2010 12:31 pm

The torque of the CRD probably is greater than is really safe for a D30A considering that gassers snap them. Add heavy tires ( most 285/75/16's are d or e rated) and I believe you are asking for a disaster. Is .5" ground clearnace vs a 265/75/16 really that big of a gain? Worthwhile over the tried & true lifts out there? Bragging rights of being on the ragged edge are one thing, but stepping back some is not a failure.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 18, 2010 8:34 pm

After dropping the cradle/trans mount you do not gain anymore clearance then with a 3" lift.

You would need to add the steel D30 if you plan on running 32"+ tires on your CRD,the D30A will blow to bits on mild trails here in CO.

Oh and a SFA is so well worth the wait,I spent over 3 years collecting parts for mine.

PathFinder7 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 18, 2010 9:30 pm

Good point Troy, I wasn't thinking of that. And as for the D30A breaking, I'll preach your gospel here brother, when it breaks, upgrade.

So the consensus seems to be don't do it. As I value the experience you guys have, I will likely avoid that route. However, I am still gonna push some boundaries and get close to a 4" lift using most what I have along with some shaved CV joints and some 265/75R16 tires. If the D30A breaks then I'll probably look at the steel 30. If it ain't broke, don't fix it...yet. Actually, if the diff goes could it trash the ARB? That would suck...

Troy, do you know anyone here in CO who knows how to shave the CV axles for the CRD?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 18, 2010 10:49 pm

PathFinder7 wrote:

Troy, do you know anyone here in CO who knows how to shave the CV axles for the CRD?

Buy the ones from JBA.Last time we tried to get some machined would have cost more then what the JBA's run(or the JE Reels he sells).

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 23, 2010 10:40 am

I was at PA Jeeps last weekend and Marlin was there with his 6 inch lifted KJ. I have to say it looked very good. I am how ever not keen on the cradle drop I would think you would loose some of the ground clearance you are trying to gain just for tough looks and to spend $$$.

His other ideas are good and the struts/shocks with springs look well made. that said I would love to get one of his lifts but it don't fit my budget now. A nice OME lift if any is in my future.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Jul 23, 2010 11:43 am

Al recommends many things....

PathFinder7 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:13 pm

That he does JL, however, you have to give him credit for his commitment to the KJ. Not that I'm an expert, but I have seen no one single source provide the solutions and sheer amount of mods for our Jeeps. If I can sort out a deal with him, I would be glad to get myself into his R&D. Not looking to lose ground clearance just to make her look tougher though. I want performance, the style is just extra.

Still undecided. I guess I'll use what I have until it explodes in a flash of mud, gear oil and my son's college fund.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Fri Jul 23, 2010 3:50 pm

Tuning in to see where this goes, since I'm running a JBA lift (2.5") on my CRD.

Groo2 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:42 pm

Completely off subject,

Dude, I have not seen many pathfinder hanging around. Good luck with your endeavors. FYI I am currently running a Frankenlit II for the CRD with a 3/8" strut spacer on top. If luck holds out I will testing out the setup tomorrow. The CV angles look OK, and there is no clevis contact at full drop (even with the sway bar disconnected). I hope to have good news to report.

Cheers,

Groo

PathFinder7 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 19, 2010 12:32 pm

Hey Groo, how's your setup holding up?

JeepBumm68 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 19, 2010 1:41 pm

ok i'll help ya out a bit.

we are almost done with are SFA CRD.

My girls libby started off on 32.8's, 3'' of lift, some trimming, and no failures at all on cv's.

Of course after a lot of wheeling on it, nothing to crazy but enough to really flex the libby out, the front diff finally ate a spider gear at 70mph on the highway heading back from a trail.

Reason why we have gone ahead and did the SFA swap. In total with parts, and some labor we well be right around 6.5K.
We did the D30 hp to get it back on the road for now, and a TJ D44 in the rear, with a np231.

it well be worth the wait to collect parts as troy said. We have had the libby down for now close to a year rebuilding it. Trying to get the right parts for fitment and other issues. There are some changes between a CRD and a Gasser that you well have to do. take it from me and build it right the first time than doing what we are doing. granted the Libby is going to heading a different direction after a year and it well be a very unique building soon.

Groo2 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 19, 2010 3:28 pm

So far my setup is holding up pretty well. I have had neither CV binding on the trail with my current setup, nor have had any CV to clevis contact. I now have enough room to squeeze on a set of 32's and and have some articulation (IFS just doesn't flex). For the most part I am very happy with what I have. I think I am looking to gear the Liberty more toward overlanding, though I do still enjoy pushing my Liberty to see where it can "really" go.

My primary concern is, adding a traction device up front. I really want to put an ARB up front, but will likely hold off until I can afford to put in a steel diff and re-gear. I am still running stock 3.73's and I don't want to run anything larger than 245/75R16 until I have the gearing correct. Out of curiosity I think I will disconnect the front sway bar and check for Clevis to CV contact; if there is no contact I will likely install a set of quick disconnects (I will post pics, when/if this happens). Another thought is using a KK clevis fork, because the fork is longer you will get some lift, but it will also push the bottom of the the strut/clevis further away from the CV boot, hopefully preventing Clevis CV contact. My main concern there is, of course, CV angles (BTW Strut spacers are about $50, KK clevis forks are about $150/pair IIRC, then an extra rear spring ISO on each spring $24 total).

just a final thought, if I want to do rock buggy stuff, I figure I should bite the bullet and make a purpose built vehicle, until then I will enjoy what I have.

Cheers,

Groo

PathFinder7 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:35 pm

Thanks for the update Groo. I also have an update. I am in a transitional phase and trying to decide what to do next. I put the Frankie IIP from my gasser on the CRD. It has the 790 springs already on it so that was good. I took out my extra rear isolators and put in a poly spacer rated at 2". The front only has the gasser struts/shocks with their spacer in it. I have not had her on the trail yet, but the CV angle looks good and there appears to be no clevis contact or binding.

I also put in a set of Al's quick disconnects in the front and three link extension in the rear. These seem to fit nicely though I have not disconnected the fronts just yet. The rear sway bar as been gone. I also put in the SS brake line extensions. Very nice product, though pricey, it is one less thing to worry about.

My rear OME shocks now reach the end of their travel before everything else does. I'm thinking of maybe doing some Bilstein long travels, maybe the 7100 series.

Currently, I have a set of Goodyear Duratrac 235/85R16s and some 16x7 ProComp Rock Crawler 152s on the way. I was really hoping they would be here today...we shall see.

I have the rear axle from my gasser in. It has 4.10s and an ARB in it. I just disconnected the front DS for now. With my 245/75s it runs around 2300-2400 RPM at 70 so I don't really like that, not sure how different the 235/85s will be since they are a bit more than an inch larger dia.

I have my front D30A out from the gasser with the 4.10s and ARB in it. I have heard several (read three) people talk about how that combo in the CRD will just explode, especially with the GDE tune on the way. I am thinking of perhaps just selling the diff whole and putting the cash towards the steel front diff and new ARB. My buddy has a D30 front laying around with 4.10s he's willing to give me.

A key factor is that I want to get these tires on and see how the gears feel. I switched to the CRD because the V6 was killing me at around 13-14 MPG. I LOVE the diesel and believe it has been worth worth the cost and effort to switch, but I still want to keep her around 25MPG if possible on average. So many decisions, so little motivation it seems. I just want to get her back on the trails...now.

6" CRD Lift, possible for around $4k?

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