Hey Bub... Your local chain parts shop should have these hanging on the wall, probably behind the counter. I got mine at Advance Auto, but Autozone, PepBoys, Checkers, Napa... They should all carry them. This will work with ANY style of the engine's filter manager head... Because it will be supplying fuel right from the tank, just like every other vehicle out there already has. Leave it to the bean counters to remove a useful part in the name of cost savings. Like GM's transmission drain plug all over again.
The main thing is that it doesn't have to be a "Mr Gasket" brand name, they all kinda look the same. Check the package for the specific pressure output, and the delivery should be about 30 gallons per hour at 4-7 psi, which is perfect for our systems.
Installation is simple, I did it in about 15 minutes in a parking lot while on a day trip. Trace the fuel line that runs from the tank up to the filter, the other one is the return line. Leave the return alone, you don't want to mess with that. The sending line however... Pick a spot on the plastic line that looks promising for easy access, and cut it in half. Don't disconnect the ends, you are using the line in-place. Oh yea... You will now be bathing in diesel fuel, so be ready for a shower. Biodiesel makes great conditioner, BTW.
Take a decent length of fuel line hose from the parts store (I bought 2 feet of it, IIRC it was 3/8 ID hose - 1/4 will NOT fit) and shove that over the plastic line with at least a 2 inch overlap. Use 2 hose clamps on each connection to the plastic line... Especially the side that is now going to be pressurized. Don't ask me how I know that little tidbit, but it was messy.
Then just connect the fuel hose to the pump (get the direction right) and use a couple of self-tapping screws to secure it to the underside of the body. Make sure you are screwing it into the body... And not that convenient vertical surface just to the rear of your work area. I didn't learn that one the hard way, but I'm reasonably sure it would ruin your day.
Wiring... LW will have to help you with the wiring if you go for the under-the-seat already existing wire. I don't know where that one is. I ran a dedicated positive supply wire all the way to the engine fuse box and cheater-plugged it into the pump relay's power pin. (I think it was pin 87 on the relay) When the key is on, the pump will start right up and do it's thing. In your case, it probably wouldn't be the worst to let the pump run by itself for a good minute before trying to crank the engine, but the pump cannot supply fuel beyond the low-pressure-and-lubricating-pass-thru of the CP3. So if the bubbles are in the high pressure lines... You are just gonna have to crank the engine until they get pushed through.
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