While changing my air filter today after 13,000 miles of use, I found a light dirty film on top of the Fram filter gasket at the front in the middle. After putting the lid back on and clamping down on the new filter it was easy to see that the lid is warping slightly, it certainly could have used an extra clamp in the middle.

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

Well that sucks the only thing i can think to do is to put the thing on a cookie sheet put it in a spare oven heat it up to around 500 degrees and it should fall back into place. Now don't do this in and oven that you use daily and definitely don't do it in your house. Or i could sell you a used one that is not warped for 20 plus shipping got one laying around from my airbox swap.

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My CRD Build Thread
Soon to Come:more lights

On a CRD you do the V6 air box swap, you reuse the top and change the bottom.
With any plastic air box you get some distortion and the rubber on the filter should fill up the gap and seal it.
Consider using a better filter element than Fram, which is one step up from the bottom when it comes to air filter quality and the amount of filter media. Reports I have read show that Fram does not even meet Mopar performance. You want to at least match OEM quality.
I use ProGuard 7 and some of our CRD members use Amzoil which is another great filter. Both brands provide great air flow way beyond Fram with out compromising the quality of filtration.
K&N will provide the flow of a ProGuard 7 or Amsoil, but has to be maintained perfectly to work well. Also K&N is prone to letting dirt into the engine if damaged by anything less than very meticulous cleaning and installation. When I saw light pin pricks coming through the K&N on my Wife's TDI after meticulously following their procedures, I tossed it and replaced it with a ProGuard 7.
To put the importance of good filtration into perspective, one Tablespoon of dirt will trash the rings of a Diesel engine the size of the Navistar DT-466T engine. For a 2.8L CRD engine all it takes is one Teaspoon. When I worked a lot on older VW IDI diesels all it took to trash out the rings was running the engine with one of the air cleaner clips missing.
Pinching pennies on air filters is going to cost more in the long run.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

thats good to know

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05 CRD Limited, SEGR Kit, EHM, Selectrack Alpine DVD, 6000k HID headlights, Aux Lift Pump, 2.5" straight pipe, Diablo Extreme Puck, Euro converter
02 SLT Cummins H.O. 6spd manual with southbend 3850dd, fass 150hd, ddp 150hp injectors, arp studs, adrenaline stacked w smarty, traction bars, 6 inch stacks, level kit, bhaf

Thanks for the advice, I had not read any reports on filtration. Oddly the Fram filter was the more expensive one at the local
discount auto parts store. I should know better though as I know of one engine ruined by a Fram OIL filter, the filter media came apart and clogged the oil passages. Who makes the ProGuard 7? I haven't seen them around this area.

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles