FLCV Mod (Flman check valve mod)

Many CRD owners are plagued with air in the automatic transmission lines at start up, this causes many problems, slow initial engagement, and even a binding situation that causes stalling when switching from reverse to drive. Others on this forum have stated in was the valve in the front pump and a poor casting, and you either need a new front pump, or a repair kit, doing this requires removal and tear down of the transmission, but does it work? Or does the new spin on filter installed during the tear down give the illusion that this did work?

I came to the conclusion that ever since I did a filter change this problem started for me, I even blew into the spin on filter to insure it had a check valve, it did but it must not be very reliable. So do you pull the pan and repeatedly change filters and hope you get lucky, or do you make a permanent repair?

Here are the parts:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/APOLLO ... Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PARKER ... Pid=search

So order the check valve and 2 compression fittings, use Teflon tape or a suitable thread sealant then tighten the fittings into the check valve. Go under the Jeep and cut out enough tubing from the lower transmission return line and install on the line, you can locate it any where you want, just be sure the flow direction to the check valve is correct.

Here it is on the line, but not secured.



Here it is secured, I slit a piece of 3/8" vinyl tubing and put it on the top line, then tied the two lines together with a nylon tie, this prevents metal to metal from rubbing together, and stops vibration.



I have put 500 highway miles on my mod with no adverse effects and more confidence when I put it in gear.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

I certainly hope you have found the cure. I might be trying this mod too.

Which line did you splice into? To cooler or from cooler?
How do you tell which line is which?

Thanks

Dave

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U.S. Army Retired

I went underneath while the transmission was warm and engine idling, I felt the two lines and the lower one was the cooler of the 2 so I put it on the lower return tubing from cooler, being the filter gets fluid from the return line, that would be the best location. Let me know how it works out, I am already forgetting to cross my fingers when I engage forward and reverse. I ordered the parts for the wife's CRD because she said it is doing the same thing.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

This is the first time I've heard about this... you new guys are really broadening the horizons!

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

Nice job on the writeup. I always let ol-blue sit in nuetral for 30 seconds before I engage. Always been a pain in the butt.

Thanks

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

If you buy the spin on cooler line filter from the dealer, that fixes it too.
I put a Fram filter on it, and it was terrible. Installed the OEM filter, and haven't had any problems since......
Not necessarily picking on Fram only, other brands may have problems too.

Brand new vehicle, no problems
Fram filter installed with fluid change, immediate and constant delayed engagement after overnight sit (for ~ 25, 000 miles)
New OEM filter installed, back to working perfect!

That was an option for me, but the FLCV mod is a lot quicker, permanent and easier then pulling the pan, unless it needs to be done. Only had to top off with 1/3 of a quote. You can do it either way if you wanna drop the pan.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Good work flman!

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Is this a diesel-specific Chrysler transmission issue or is it spread across the 45RFE V8 petrol WJs as well?

I know mine seems to hesitate a bit going from gear to gear before it gives me a reassuring jerk on engagement (first automatic transmission and first diesel is never a good combination), but a mate of mine's mum has a petrol V8 WJ that does the same thing, only worse. She says on some cold starts in the morning it won't go anywhere without excessive throttle.

Just curious as to whether this was isolated to the CRDs because of the differences between the CRD's 545RFE and the other 45s and 545s.

If this only happens on a cold start, it might be a good idea to try it? Does the tranny work fine after words?

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Just an FYI,
Here are the 2 TSBs related to this complaint.

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2005/21-016-05.htm

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2006/21-007-06.htm

Hmmm, mine just started doing this too. About 2 months after changing the filter. I used a WIX brand.

Dave

My mate says it's slow to downshift and upshift and generally feels lazy, but there's no slippage beyond the cold start.

This may be the way to go. I'll have to source this stuff locally, maybe I can be the hero of the day

Did the mod on the wives Sport, will let you know the results on that in a couple of days.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

I'll be doing this next weekend on my mate's mum's car

One thing I can say, is you need to press on the accelerator alot less with this mod. My wife has looked at me a few times as if I were backing out of the garage, and into the street in an reckless way. I am getting full torque to the rear wheels on a cold start now. Never realised how much it was slipping all that time previous to my mod.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Sorry if I sound dumb ( would rather you think I'm dumb than to mess up the CRD ) I'm assuming when you cut the line 1 transmission fluid will come pouring out of both tube, and 2 air will proceed to enter both tubes. How do you control the outflow of fluid while trying to fit up the check valve, and is there any specific way one needs to bleed the air out?

With the trans in neutral, start the engine and let it run for a couple minuets. Shift into reverse and hold the brake for 30 seconds. Back up, shift into 1st and hold the brake for 30 seconds. Drive 1/2 a block with the selector in 1st. Drive 1/2 a block with the selector in 2nd. Stop, shift into drive and drive easy for about two blocks. Drive normal around town for a few miles and then drive hard. Keep the engine running, open the hood, pull the trans stick, wipe it off and check the fluid, add what is needed.
You can have the trans totally drained of all oil and the above procedure will get all the air out.
It will also do the slow learn to get your TCM to adapt to the way you drive.

PS, do the procedure if you change the filters or Transmission fluid.
USE only ATF+4, don't let anyone sell you anything else.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

With the engine off, you will lose about 1/3 of a quart, just add the same amount when you are done, and be on your way. The air will bleed out when you start the engine, just let it idle for 30 seconds before you put it in gear.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Stupid question: Which way does the arrow (flow direction) point on your mod? Does it point to the rear of vehicle or front of vehicle. Sorry if this appears to be a stupid question.

Also, what size compression fittings did you buy? Can you point us to a part number or link to the compression fittings?

Thanks a bunch. I just developed this issue with my tranny and I will probably be unemployed in January and want to spend as little $$$ as possible before I consider buying a new front pump and a torque convertor.