transmission cooler??

toyota jeep man · **Joined:** Tue Aug 25, 2009 5:19 pm **Posts:** 110

i have been reading all about people and putting on another trans cool so i ordered one but i just relize there already is one in the front is every one putting 2 aux coolers or is mine different and mine dos not go into the radiator???

mag03kj · **Posted:** Fri Sep 17, 2010 1:43 pm

What the hell did you just say?

slacker · **Posted:** Fri Sep 17, 2010 1:47 pm

Lots of us JK owners are running these on our JKs. Should work for the liberty as well

http://www.amazon.com/70268-SuperCooler ... YWL77L5UO5

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Sep 17, 2010 1:52 pm

Are you talking about the trans cooler that comes with the CRD package (in the US at least)?

If I recall, it has connections at the bottom end of the intercooler. Some have added auxiliary coolers that would do a better job than the "integrated" one, such as EurekaBoy: http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/transcooler.htm

Dan

toyota jeep man · **Joined:** Tue Aug 25, 2009 5:19 pm **Posts:** 110

everyone was talking about putting them on and it sounded like a good idea and i just went out to go look at it and mine has just one aux cooler not in the radiator and i was wondering if every runs 2 coolers or is mine different

slacker · **Posted:** Fri Sep 17, 2010 2:09 pm

Normally the stock trans cooler is integrated with the AC condenser.

An aux cooler will greatly help, especially when driving in sand, towing or driving in the mountains.

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/sho ... hp?t=92755

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Fri Sep 17, 2010 8:45 pm

Our 545RFE transmissions require 3/8" lines not the common 5/16" lines most trans coolers have, like the BM 70255 SuperCooler I bought in error.
Check before you buy unless you want a really big return line Fuel Cooler when you can't return it.
Plate type coolers are more efficient than tube type but cost more.
No trans cooler will work well unless you have air going through it so mount it where the air flows through.
The farther South or the Higher Altitude you live at or travel in, plus the load you tow, the more you need a bigger trans cooler. The cooler your trans runs as long as you get it warm enough to evaporate the water out of it (not a problem on mine), the longer it will live. Spend a little more for a bigger cooler and you will only need to do it once.

Going to a enhanced TCM tune that slightly raises the pressure (or using a trick resistor), will make your trans run a little warmer, my Experimental TCM has raised my trans temp by 10F-15F under most conditions. One advantage of the Experimental TCM is that I get 34MPH with an InMotion Stage 2 ECM Tune on Midwestern Back Roads where I am stuck driving under 65MPH is nice.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Fri Sep 17, 2010 8:51 pm

slacker wrote:

Lots of us JK owners are running these on our JKs. Should work for the liberty as well

http://www.amazon.com/70268-SuperCooler ... YWL77L5UO5

Summit has it for $49.95 and it does have the 3/8" lines, great cooler, just ordered it.
Anyone want my BM 70255?
If not I may up size my fuel cooler :lol:

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:15 am

Is this necessary if youre not towing?

SJBrooks · **Joined:** Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:01 am **Posts:** 80

In other threads y’all can read where I just completed a 200k service on my little tractor (2006 CRD). Next month, I’m going to haul my SxS up to/from ID, a total load of approx 3400 lbs and 2400 miles round trip. That in mind, I’m looking into adding an auxiliary transmission cooler and came upon this old thread. The cooler and location shown in the link by Eurekaboy has me interested in going that route…

Does anybody have any good/bad experiences with those choices? What other alternatives can anybody suggest?

Thanks in advance for the replies!

Steve

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Apr 20, 2025 11:02 pm

Early on not long after purchasing my Jeep CRD, I added a Derale 10 plate stacked transmission oil cooler in series (after) the OEM cooler to help control fluid temperatures when towing loaded trailers. I mounted it in the opening below bumper so as to not add any additional heat into the OEM radiator stack. I also installed a transmission temperature gauge with a sensor using a Tee block on the metal oil cooler outlet line before the factory cooler so I could monitor fluid temperatures leaving the transmission. When under load pulling load up long hills, the temperatures still wanted to creep up above 220 in the very hot sunny south (100 deg days)

So next I purchased and installed a cast aluminum PML deep sump oil pan that has large cooling fins both inside and outside of the pan to help with heat dissipation. With the addition of the PML pan along with adding another temperature sensor in the aluminum pan's sump, (it comes drilled and taped for a temperature sensor and a drain plug).

The PML pan was the icing on the cake, after the install, no matter what load I was pulling during high heat & humidity conditions, I never saw any fluid temperatures rise above 200 degrees even on long hills on the hottest days. I added a switch so I could switch from one fluid sensor to the other to be able to monitor the hot fluid going to the coolers, and the fluid sump temperature. About a 20 degree difference when working the transmission hard during towing.
The deep sump oil pan allows the addition of several more quarts of ATF+4 along with the cooling fins really helps control temperatures.

And, if you pull or replace the transmission oil pan, get a "LUBELOCKER" pan gasket, best I have ever used, has silicone impregnated into the gasket and is reusable.

SJBrooks · **Joined:** Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:01 am **Posts:** 80

Many thanks again, WW, for the info. I’ll order one of the pans today and get it installed. Appreciating your experiences with our CRDs, I’d like to know if you see a problem with simply cutting the metal trans fluid return line and double-clamping the rubber line onto it. Over the years on other applications I’ve seen that, IF it’s done right, this can be a fully sufficient way of doing the job.

Steve

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Apr 21, 2025 3:19 pm

SJBrooks wrote:

Many thanks again, WW, for the info. I’ll order one of the pans today and get it installed. Appreciating your experiences with our CRDs, I’d like to know if you see a problem with simply cutting the metal trans fluid return line and double-clamping the rubber line onto it. Over the years on other applications I’ve seen that, IF it’s done right, this can be a fully sufficient way of doing the job.
Steve

Geno's Garage is a good place to order the PML oil pan from: (545RFE Same as 68RFE) Geno's has them for $100 off retail price right now.
PN: PML10304
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/PML ... ssion-pans

If you simply cut the metal fluid line, I would put a slight flare on the end of the cut metal line to help hold a rubber hose on the line when clamped.
3/8" PEX crimp type clamps really work well for installing rubber hose on metal fittings. Never have to worry about them working loose like screw type clamps.
You can buy them at hardware and builders supply stores or order them online. (Can crimp them with a pair of end nippers, no special tools required)

Or you could get two 3/8" compression fittings that use a metal ferrule compression ring to clamp down on the metal line and a barbed 3/8" hose fitting on the other end to attach your rubber hose to. This would be the safest way to do it.

SJBrooks · **Joined:** Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:01 am **Posts:** 80

Appreciate the advice, WW!

Steve

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 292

So....WWDiesel is the best. I also went a step further and installed a Derale 13315 between the intercooler and radiator then installed a Derale 13011 Fluid Controlled Thermostat (180 degrees) between the transmission and the cooler. I then have the return from the 13315 going to a Derale 13740 dual fan remote cooler. I also have the finned pan.

WWDiesel wrote:

SJBrooks wrote:

Many thanks again, WW, for the info. I’ll order one of the pans today and get it installed. Appreciating your experiences with our CRDs, I’d like to know if you see a problem with simply cutting the metal trans fluid return line and double-clamping the rubber line onto it. Over the years on other applications I’ve seen that, IF it’s done right, this can be a fully sufficient way of doing the job.
Steve

Geno's Garage is a good place to order the PML oil pan from: (545RFE Same as 68RFE) Geno's has them for $100 off retail price right now.
PN: PML10304
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/PML ... ssion-pans

If you simply cut the metal fluid line, I would put a slight flare on the end of the cut metal line to help hold a rubber hose on the line when clamped.
3/8" PEX crimp type clamps really work well for installing rubber hose on metal fittings. Never have to worry about them working loose like screw type clamps.
You can buy them at hardware and builders supply stores or order them online. (Can crimp them with a pair of end nippers, no special tools required)

Or you could get two 3/8" compression fittings that use a metal ferrule compression ring to clamp down on the metal line and a barbed 3/8" hose fitting on the other end to attach your rubber hose to. This would be the safest way to do it.

transmission cooler??

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