Not to revive an old, dead thread, but... had this fan replacement done, along with timing belt replacement, water pump. Was hoping this would resolve the issue with pegging the temp gauge when going uphill with the a/c on at 65mph, 80 degrees F, 8000 feet elevation. No joy

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'05 CRD Liberty Sport with stuff.

Did you replace the thermostat? Sounds like you aren't getting the water movement that you should be. These CRDs have a habit of running cool, and don't usually react like that unless there is something wrong in the cooling system.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

My CRD will overheat under those conditions as well (AC on, warm to hot ambient, highway speed uphill). I have a new thermostat, and the mechanical fan seems fine. I do know for a fact my electric fan has a blown fuse -- the fan is bad, on my first fuse replacement running the AC the cab filled with a horrible insulation burning smell. Haven't fixed it yet.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

I need to order these parts online, but most of the retailers you guys mentioned won't ship to South Africa.

Does anyone have suggestions of alternative suppliers,

or would anyone be willing to be a delivery point for me? I'll order everything and pay for it my side and get it shipped to you. Then can arrange UPS or similar to send over to me here?

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD (55 000 Miles)
GDE Eco Tune - Distributer for Southern Africa.
Running better then when she was new - Thanks to LOST

Will try the t-stat (Mark? You there?) and go from there. --Dan

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'05 CRD Liberty Sport with stuff.

Is a smaller diameter flex fan available? A 17 or 18" diameter fan could reduce drag considerably provided it would work OK in the shroud. I could not find manufacturer info by googling?

Edit,
I found Imperial listed under Haydenauto.com. They also list a Hayden 2905 fan clutch for our CRD application, looks like about $55 delivered from Amazon. Still looking for other flex-fan diameters.

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Mail Rated 2005 Red CRD Sport with large rectangular hole in top right behind the EVIC and above the heated leather seats.
2004 Jetta TDI

I think you are right about the shroud.
Engineers correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you lose efficiency when there is too much gap between the fan and shroud.

Also, (in aviation anyway) efficiency increases with propeller diameter, as a rule of thumb. So I suppose this considers prop drag and available thrust.

Maybe you could consider a less aggressive (less pitch or more flexible) 19" fan.

I suspect power requirements go up as a square of the diameter given similar blade designs.

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Mail Rated 2005 Red CRD Sport with large rectangular hole in top right behind the EVIC and above the heated leather seats.
2004 Jetta TDI

Correct, if the shroud gap is too large, you get recirculation instead of air being pulled through the radiator. If you want to reduce the power consumption of the fan, I think you're splitting hairs, but a full diameter with a less aggressive pitch would be the way to go.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Has anyone gone with an electric fan?
I replaced the clutch fan on my 2000 Cherokee with an electric fan and it works great.
I can see no reason not to do the dame with a CRD?
I would love some comments on this approach.

Bob

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2006 CRD Limited, tow hooks, GRD eco Tune, Transgo shift kit, Provent 200, 2005 Cummins lift pump, Sedimentator, Magnaflow muffler, AFE-pro dry filter and modified air box, ARB Bully Bar bumper

I did the FFF mod about a month ago on top of a new thermostat. Since then I've driven mixed city, mountain, and I've been to Moab and crawled around on the rock in 90 degree heat. I was concerned about highway fuel consumption due to drag. I just checked mileage last night and got 25.0 mpg. That about 200 road miles and the rest mixed. Economy doesn't seem to suffer since this is the first 25 mpg tank I've seen:)

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

Been awhile since I've checked in on this thread. Been busy working on the thermostats and posting results there. Yeah the cheap "log" software from ebay ended up only being a trial version. Well thats what you get for $20 I guess. At least the connector was working for that $20. but then....my wife's laptop (that has eaten 2 usb wireless cards in the past) ended up frying the connector i think because it stopped working. I think her laptop is running too much power to those ports, something wrong there. Won't use that PC again for any USB stuff.

Geordi, I'm curious about your enhanced AutoEnginuity. Is that a handheld or a laptop setup? Sounds like it is software for a laptop, but just wanted to make sure. I really need a new laptop before I attempt any more logging.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Yeah, sorry. I've been immersed in the thermostat thread and haven't check in here enough. Between the Stat development and posting pics I've been so busy.

Sorry to hear about your overheating. I am running the 192 temp (even higher than your stock thermostat) and haven't had an issue since I've replaced the fan. I used to overheat with the factory stat due to the fan clutch failing. I replaced the fan and then ran closer to normal, but was too cold due to the thermostat being stuck open. I replaced the tstat with the new modded unit and everything is great. Now my temps stay between 190 and 195 no matter if its 100*F ouside or if its 30*. Last winter with the bad tstat was brutal, I always was cold in the car.

So far I think everyone's thermostat has failed in the full open position so it would be weird that you would be overheating unless it failed closed. But then you would overheat even not under load.

On the FFF, did you get the exact part number I posted? Can you post a pic or 2 of it installed? Make sure the fan is the reverse cooling (that is the exact part number I posted). If it is the regular fan and not reverse cooling you will be pushing air the WRONG direction. I think the part numbers are only 1 number different between the two so make sure you have the right one. If the wrong fan was used it would cool at idle reat, but down the road overheat.

Keep in touch and let me know how it's going.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Yes, the same number with a 18 at the end instead of the 19 is the 18", the factory fan on our jeep is a 18" so it would work fine. I just wanted the xtra cooling of the 19 since it fits.

Nice that now there is a aftermarket fan clutch option. When I pioneered this there wasn't a aftermarket fanclutch available and the jeep one was 150.00

That said, the fixed fan will obviously cool better than with a clutch because it's cooling all the time, not just at high temps and I an VERY happy with mine and haven't seen any noticeable drop in economy.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Yes that is correct and air can circle around and not pull as much flow through the radiator. Like I mentioned earlier our factory fan is a 18" so that is a good option also and would be less drag than the 19". not much of a economy drop going to the FFF so probably wouldn't see much of a gain w/18" over the 19". I'd rather have the added air flow.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Good to hear, glad you like it. Its great that more members are trying this and good to hear back with results. The reason the economy doesn't suffer is because the air trying to flow through the radiator at highway speeds matches the demand for air the fan has so it is not working the engine for that nearly as hard. I'm not sure what speed will match the fan speed at what rpm, but it is obvious that it helps when the jeep is moving. Around town and low vehicle speeds is probably where the maximum loss will occur because the fan is working harder (little air trying to flow through the radiator at low vehicle speeds). Additionally the torque converter is unlocked so engine rpm's will be higher and more loss there.

All this considered, I have seen very little if any loss to my economy. My tanks have averaged around the same.

Well, keep up the info sharing. I want to get more peoples opinions on here.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Some of you were wondering why I chose the flex fan over electric. Heres my thoughts as I went through the debate.

Electric primary fan VS Mechanical. My thoughts and reasons I went Flex Fan:

1) Price - a small point if you have lots of money...but i dont. LOLOL. If you get the proper setup to have different speeds for the fan (which is more efficient) it costs a pretty penny. the mechanical was cheaper.
2) Is electric more efficient...usually yes but not in all cases. Electric is most efficient when not in use. this is simple when is that? on the highway. It still has some loss there due to the air being turbulant and turning the fan, but that is almost negate compared to the giant jeep. What about mechanical? Is it really inneficient at higway speeds? Turns out its not. Since rotational inertia stays the same, there is no loss there. The only loss is from the friction of the air hitting the blades, and when the air is going through the radiator at 60mph, its not hard for the fan to turn through the air...it almost pushes the fan. Electric pulls amperage from the electric system and has to be recharged by the alternator which draws power from the engine when it is in use. True that it is not used unless needed though. If you do not have at least 2 or 3 speed settings the fan will cycle drawing HUGE amperage all at once, alternator loads engine, efficiency lost. If you do have a multi speed setup it is easier on the charging system and more efficient due to less load on the alternator unless needed and not wasting fule to turn the alternator under load. How about at high rpm or under load locked towing. Well under load the electric will come on. Mechanical is already moving air so even there. At high RPM's mechanical flattens out and has less drag, but still moves significant ammount of air. Electric needs to be on at high rpms unless it is brief due to the heat created. All in all we'll say electric is probably more efficient, but not by much.
4) Most aftermarket electric setups are fastened directly to radiator (no shroud) and do not pull air through the entire radiator like a fan shroud and a fan does. They only pull from the little circle it is in. There are a few that have 2 small fans and a thin shroud, but look at their CFM ratings. also look at where the cooling is most efficient. It is most efficient over the larger area at a slower speed than a small area at a high speed. Once the temp in a given spot in the radiator drops say 10 degrees, it is much hardr to drop that cooler water down another 10 degrees since the ambient air is the same temp. Ideally we eant to cool the hottest water (where it enters the radiator) a shroud does this. Ok so we are down to a shrouded fan setup. This leaves those 2 small fans. Less efficient than one big electric, but how about against the mechanical. Probably much less efficient, but at least thay can pull from the edge of radiator also. Now what happens if you have a dual on setup with these? Well you get the air circulating from the fan that is on and out the other fan hole and back in. VERY inefficient. thats why dual fan setups are mounted on or close to the radiator. all in all I would say a shrouded mechanical is more efficient than a non shrouded electrical or dual electrical at cooling

5) Also, are you gaining any transmission cooling from the electric when it is not needed for cooling the engine? NO. To me thats the scary part. Also, what about your AC? Only the little fan to help with that. (though you could setup the large fan to go with the small one, but then again theres your efficiency loss with teh large one being on all the time the AC is) I think stoplight to stoplight city mileage would suffer with electric due to it constantly cycling because of lack of air flow at stoplights and always being on. At least even with the fan clutch it still moved the fan at partial speed at lights.

6) Another reason for me is long term reliability. For that a mechanical takes the cake, especially when you take the fan clutch out of the equasion. I do not want to be on the road and have a relay go out, a fan go out, or the alternator go because the xtra amperage the large electric fan (has to be big enough to cool the jeep) pulls. I want to ADD reliability to my jeep not unreliability. The FFF adds more efficiency to the trans cooler, cools the intercooler, cools the AC condensor.

All in all the electric is a option, probably would work great, but not so sure it would see better numbers than the mechanical and the mechanical has more gains pluss is cheaper to setup and EASY. For me I chose mechanical due to reliability, price and the other attached gains of cooling the Transmission, AC condensor, and intercooler all the time.

Thanks for listening to my thoughts...this is what I went through when considering the 2 options.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

You sold me at point 6).
The reliability of this setup is enough to convince me to buy.

Who is the smiling pilot in your avatar?

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

It's me......but 15+ years ago. I don't want to update it because it is all over the net.