This test was done with ambient temperature of 15*C. There are no leaks and the coolant is topped up.



The truck has been out of insurance for a while now so I have only my driveway to test it.
I ran the truck for 25 minutes and every couple of minutes, I drove it up and down the driveway. Since it wasn't heating enough I even started dragging the brakes a little.

I probably should throw some cardboard in front and try to overheat it. But before I do this I thought that I would double check the hoses. It has been apart since April so I could have something in wrong.

I have the lower aluminum fitting going to a hose disappearing below. The upper black plastic fitting goes to a short hose to the left (if you are looking from the front of the truck) side of the viscous heater. The small black plastic fitting goes to the expansion tank.

Have you tried putting it in gear with the brake on?
I have had similar readings driving to work with a cover over the radiator.
Brrrr.

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms

I think the thermostat's stuck open -
the air through the radiator wouldn't matter if the thermostat was closed

although as a test to get the heat up you could block it off
Is the viscous heater still connected? that should provide some heat

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

But at an ambient temperature of 15*C (59*F), the thermostat should regulate to operating temperature even idling. But the truth is, I have never tested this on my diesel. I usually drive it to warm it up soon after I start it.


I think so too. I will wait for Mark before I crack it open though.


I did remove both hoses to it to gain room. I may have the hoses backwards, but it still shouldn't make a difference.

Just my luck, first person I send one out to has issues...lol

Don't worry, I'll take care of you and get this fixed.

At first glance I THINK something is wrong, but not 100% sure (lets just say 99.99% sure that the new thermostat is defective). It sounds like the thermostat is bad. But it could also be that idling it just doesn't get too warm. I do not remember what my cold idle temp was, but I would THINK that it would be hot enough to get the engine to operating temp. Especially with the VH running it should be at least 150ish I think.

I have seen before that my 89 honda CRX 1.5L would never warm up enough to kick in the cooling fan so there is a point where it would not create enough heat to overcome the ambient temp while idling. Note that it didn't have a fan opther than the electric so it was very similar to a closed loop since there was no air running through the radiator.

I also know diesels lean out really lean and don;t need much fuel to idle, so it may be possible it just isn't creating enough heat...but i doubt it.

When you say you may have gotten hoses mixed up that doesn't boost my confidence that it is the tstat that is the problem, but I am still leaning towards that. ha ha, I'm sure you got it right.

Anyway, I'd either get it registered, then go for a drive, and if its not coming up to temp, then change out the thermostat since you have that extra...OR swap that first and see if it will come up to temp idling with the different tstat. If so, then the first one is bad and I owe you another tstat. It would be weird that a tstat was bad being new, but I've seen it happen with alternators so why not. If that is the case it's gonna make me want to switch brands for sure.

Here is the application for what vehicle the parts fit so you can try different brands, buy locally, or replace down the road, etc:

Thermostat 195* or 180* - 95-99 hyundai Accent 1.5L
Radiator Hose - 93-97 Dodge intrepid 3.3L

I still need to come up with a good torque spec for you, but you can hand tighten w/o worries of breaking it if you hold the ratchet right by the head so you do not have too much torque. It shouldn't have to be that tight to seal, if it leaks just tighten a bit more.

I'm pretty pissed that that tsat could be bad...brand new in the box! GRRRR

Let me know what you find out. Good thing I sent you 2 tstats. If that one is bad, let me know....let me know what happens either way, but if its bad I'll send you another. Probably not worth the shipping to send it back to me so I can return it, so I'll just send you another.

Keep me updated,

- Mark

**EDIT** O, just thought of something. The test procedure for the fan clutch is to block radiator and hold rpm's at 2400 untill it engages. Anyway, I'd leave the radiator open and hold at 2400rpm's and see if the temp comes up since that is a known safe rpm to hold the engine w/o load.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

I'm not sure if everyone else has the same experience, but I can't get my CRD up to temp without driving it. It warms up fast, but not unless I'm moving.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

thx for the imput. I don't have mine anymore to test that. The weird thing is that he VH is supposed to kick in I thought, but it may only come on if the cabin heat is on. maybe he should try that? Seems counter productive, i know, but it may work to get u up to 150ish.

Hard to say w/o driving it. I know these cast iron blocks do take a bit to get warm.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Squeeto, looks like you're not online, going out to dinner with wife...been a long day for both of us and I could use some good food. Applebees 2 for $20 and good food.

Good news is I got the charger back w/new hood and hail dents fixed, bad news is they need to readjust the sunroof as it is making wind noise now and may leak and they need to clean the rear carpet where it looks kinda stained. Wife had a bad day at work so we both need some cheering up.

I'll check back in in a coupple hours when I get back.

Just for fun, heres a pic w/the new hood. It looks nice. I'm doing everything I can to make it look like a RWD so ppl don't know its AWD...especially when insurance nearly covered the hood cost completely (only had to pay a little of the paint cost):

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Squeeto, sorry, I missed the 15C, was thinking 15F.
They do not produce enough heat at idle, but some guys idle all night when cross country driving.
Slap a plate on it and go for a ride, Mark has enough to worry about without a rigorous test of the thermostat.

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'06 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD with: GDE Hot Flash and Tranny Flash, ehm, Cummins fuel pump, 3" Magnaflow muff, Moog K3199's, Skids, 225-75-16 10 ply, OME springs, Euro T/C, Shift kit, Trans cooler w/thermal bypass, Bigboy bkt, Samco CAC, Brake controller, Trans temp gauge, Al's Upper Arms

Im still interested.

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2006 KJ CRD Ltd - Suncoast, GDE Eco, EGR Delete, After market T-Stat, Skid Row skids, V6 airbox, 2.5" Turbo back
2005 KJ CRD Sport-Suncoast, Transco, GDE Hot-GDE Trans, EGR Delete, Skid Row skids, V6 airbox, 2.5" Turbo back, After market S-Stat
1987 Suzuki LWB Samurai -diesel powered, custom 4 link coil suspension 38.5 SX Swampers

Last time I was in the cold, Phoenix never counts, I tried sitting in the parking lot for about ten minutes with the motor running to get the engine warmed up. It didn't move much above that mark, if I recall correctly... Not sure what the idle temperature would normally be, so I'd definitely slap a plate on it and drive it for a couple of miles. If it doesn't budge then, you know it's the tstat.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

Thanks all. Lots of good points.

I figured, even with a good thermostat, it may take driving to get it up to temperature.
Riding the brakes up and down the driveway may not cut it.

It is about $50 to transfer insurance, buy new plates, pay HST, etc. and the wife wants to keep her Audi on the road. I will probably just block the rad.

I found a diagram in the FSM that shows that I did put the hoses in correctly. I was fairly sure that I had.

I just wanted to keep Mark in the loop.

Might be interesting to note that with the 192 and a FFF (once at operating temp from driving) I let it idle over night for heat and it maintained heat all night into the morning while camping in the back of the jeep in the mountains. May not create enough heat just idling, but when churning that heater (VH) the engine works harder and therefore consumes more fuel and makes more heat. The VH itself also creates its own heat, but is only on I think below 150*F I think. Would have to talk to Keith to b sure at what temp it kicks off. Perhaps after she is warm she becomes more efficient and leaner is hotter I believe.

So, Squeeto, For now try this: Start her up and turn heat on in the cabin full blast and let her idle for at least 30 min and see what happens. Then try holding it at ~2000rpms and see. I think it will come up. If not you'll have to try driving it or swap the tstat and see.

keep me informed and thx for keeping me in the loop.

Time for bed. Gotta be up in the morn. I'll check back tomorrow

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Cannot really check using my CRD as I know the tstat has failed open but for what it's worth at 60F this am 7 minutes at idle and the needle still sits on cold. More to the point my 1993 Dodge D250 Cummins that sat for several years before stoutdog got it was cranked every month. Doing so I immediately found that it simply would not get off almost dead cold sitting at idle in any reasonable period of time even some in gear and driveway forward/back but if I simply ran around the block (ca. 0.5-0.75 mile) the temperature would come up as it should.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

10*C (50*F) - heat fully on - radiator blocked as shown

truck started - 770 rpm
01min
02min
03
04
05min - temperature gauge at 'C' - increased to 1.75k to 1.8k rpm
06
07 - heat from vent just starting
08
09
10 -gauge just above 'C' - heat from vent is noticeably hotter
11
12 -gauge just below first line above 'C' - increased to 2.1k rpm
13
14 -gauge at line 1-1/2
15 -gauge at line 2 - lots of vent heat now
16
17 -gauge at line 2 - too much diesel smell (where is my respirator?) - reduced to 1.8k rpm
18 -gauge at line 2-1/3
19
20 -gauge at line 2-1/3 - reduced to 770 rpm
21
22
23 -gauge at line 2-1/2
24
25
26
27
28 -gauge at line 2-1/2 - increased to 2k rpm
29 -gauge at line 2-1/3
30
31 -gauge at line 2-1/2
32 -gauge at line 2-1/2 - reduced to 770 rpm
33 -gauge just below line 3
34 -gauge just below line 3 - turned vent heat off
35
36
37 -gauge just below line 3 - turn off truck

Basically got up to temperature and started regulating by minute 18. Slight temperature increase as the block and surroundings caught up to coolant temperature.

Probably have to wait until tomorrow to crack open Mark's stat (hmmm... Mark'nStat ).
But I did boil test the spare thermostat. Open at 194, closed at 190. Perfect.

Well, if you're gonna register it anyway you might as well just wait and drive it. If you are enthusiastic about it, swap it out and throw the faulty thermostat in water to verify it's bad.

thx for keepin me in the loop.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Mark, PM sent.

Just in case for later, is the new cap from the Intrepid as well?

Back on Aug 14 in this string Mark said "Turns out the hose is from a dodge, the water outlet is from a kia (shouldn't ever have to replace that, unless you break the casting), the thermostats (both temps) are for a hyundai." At that time he did not have access to the part #s but would dig them out. Based on your query I assume that the hose is from a Dodge Intrepid.

Mark - still looking forward to a unit but if you won't get to me before the end of October drop me a PM or email as I'll be on travel status in Nov. and would consider stepping to another place in line if there is someone from up north that's in line with a failed open tstat in urgent need. Under those circumstances I can live with my failed open for a bit longer as I can at least force the system up to normal temps on 72 degree plus days by running the ac.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs