Wanted to say thanks.

KoRnyBrad · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 7:43 am

I came across a RRO lift on Craigslist for $75. I thought this was a great price and contacted the seller asking if they still had it. After reading here and on JeepKj.com I have decided I know why it's so cheap and am going to back out of the deal. He is just wanting to unload it, probably for the same reasons.

Just wanted to say thanks for all your posts and insight on lifts, especially the one in question. I'll be saving my $$ and going with a Daystar lift instead (plus I get a club discount if I order from 4wd.com). Yes I know I should save more $ and get a OME/Rancho, but this is what suits me.

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 12:31 pm

Well there's one person we (LOST) have saved. Now I can have a great day knowing we made a difference.

I would still recommend a Frankie or OME if you plan to stay 2.5-3".

KoRnyBrad · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 5:37 pm

I mainly want the "look". My KJ has never seen a trail, and with my work schedule it probably never will. In the future I'm going to look into springs and shocks. But with all the school loans come crashing down, this fits my budget.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 04, 2010 5:50 pm

at least you can sell the daystar later, however mind your expendables, if you get replacement stock coils to replace sagged coils, you're halfway money wise to real lift coils and they won't be worth much after 20-30k

Boiler (chip) makes upper strut shims in two different thicknesses for like 45 dollars a pair or so, and conduit nuts will lift the clevis for a dollar plus some electrical tape and you can get an inch out of those two easily for the front and both techniques are useful even with true lift coils such as OME, so they aren't expendables nor are they wear parts and you can get an inch to 3/4" in the rear by adding two extra upper iso's per side for a total of about 50 dollars, again, useful as well with OME type coils so not an expendable

Just a thought if you're trying to reduce your expendables in lieu of having money for the bigger stuff

KoRnyBrad · **Posted:** Sun Sep 05, 2010 5:20 am

JeepinJarhead03 wrote:

Boiler (chip) makes upper strut shims in two different thicknesses for like 45 dollars a pair or so, and conduit nuts will lift the clevis for a dollar plus some electrical tape and you can get an inch out of those two easily for the front and both techniques are useful even with true lift coils such as OME, so they aren't expendables nor are they wear parts and you can get an inch to 3/4" in the rear by adding two extra upper iso's per side for a total of about 50 dollars, again, useful as well with OME type coils so not an expendable

Just a thought if you're trying to reduce your expendables in lieu of having money for the bigger stuff

So you think skip the Daystar and do the Boiler shims/clevis for the front and the upper isolators in back(WesWay Lift) for under $100 would be a good way to go? I read a great how to on jeepkj.com. Looks a lot easier than the Daystar and no coils to compress either!

Are the WesWay and Daystar comparable in height?

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sun Sep 05, 2010 5:56 am

There's less strain on the rear coils when using pucks than there is in the front so it doesn't cause pre-mature coil degradation

not sure what the height on that WesWay puck is for the rear, pretty sure I've seen it but I can't accurately say

but yes, that's the route i would personally go since it's acquiring items that can be and more than likely will be used again / in conjunction with lift coils at a later date and will lift the vehicle without causing any adverse coil performance other than what you may or may not already be experiencing with the stock coils

KoRnyBrad · **Posted:** Fri Oct 15, 2010 12:17 am

Changed the oil today and got a wild hair to try to put on the rear lift....with success!! I didn't have jack stands, but I used ramps and a couple jacks to get the axle to drop enough to pull out the spring. Worked pretty good so far. I even drove to KCI and back. Cara can notice the difference. I ran out of day light and time before I could snap to many pics. Also gotta measure tomorrow. I'm so proud of myself, now to tackle the front sometime.

Before lift, only pic I could find. I forgot to clicky clicky. :oops:

After lift

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 15, 2010 12:43 am

looks like a lifted scale model to me

tire clearance is about right with that size tire and the extra clearance, later on, you can add coils, adding more clearance and shove bigger tires in closing the gap

glad ya got it together and indeed there's much less to those additions than the front coil R&R hehe

SabaII · **Joined:** Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:48 am **Posts:** 62

So if I am strapped on cash right now and want some lift to get taller tires for the winter. I should do the clevis lift and spacers in front and the rear lift that KoRnyBrad did?

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 15, 2010 12:54 am

as long as you don't plan on overdoing the tire size for the increased amount of clearance the only thing holding you back is actually doing it

KoRnyBrad · **Posted:** Fri Oct 15, 2010 1:05 am

Might of been easier if I had jack stands. But the ramps worked fine for holding the axle while I used the jack to make it flex a bit more to get the spring back in after installing the isolators.

KoRnyBrad · **Posted:** Fri Oct 15, 2010 1:06 am

Oh and I used the Jeep jack that was under my seat. Worked pretty awesome if you ask me!

SabaII · **Joined:** Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:48 am **Posts:** 62

Well stock on my 02 I have 235 70 16. Could I realistically fit a 245 75 or is that out of the question? I do not want to go more wide as it sucks more in the snow. Especially with the light jeep, but its the height I want.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 15, 2010 1:30 am

to be totally honest with you, i ran 255-70's on mine unlifted and sagged to like 17.5" from hub to fender flare lip

it rubbed the **** out of the pinch until i beat it down, and rubbed the fog light doors even after the lift to a certain extent

pound the pinch welds, that will take care of a majority of it

jafstl38 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 19, 2010 12:37 pm

KoRnyBrad wrote:

Oh and I used the Jeep jack that was under my seat. Worked pretty awesome if you ask me!

What part of Missouri are you from Kornybrad? I go to school in St Charles and Live in Creve Couer.

KoRnyBrad · **Posted:** Tue Oct 19, 2010 1:12 pm

jafstl38 wrote:

What part of Missouri are you from Kornybrad? I go to school in St Charles and Live in Creve Couer.

I live 60 miles north of Kansas City in St. Joe.

Boiler · **Posted:** Tue Oct 19, 2010 3:04 pm

I think 245/75 is pretty much out of the question if you're only adding 1.5" front and rear with stock springs. My shims add about 3/4, and a 3/8" clevis lift will add another 3/4. Two isolators in the rear add about 1.25" as they are about 5/8" thick (for uppers, lower isolators are about 1/2").

I have OME HD lift plus shims up front and I had a ton of rubbing with 245/75. I had to trim the air dam off, pound the pinch weld, and I still have rubbing when turning in reverse.

You might be able to fit them but there will definitely be contact when turning.

The best reason to do a WESWAY is that the components you use don't hurt anything and don't wear out, and can be used with the standard OME/Rancho type lift down the road. You can get improve your entrance/exit angle and breakover angle by having some lift, but you're not going to add enough height to increase the tires much.

SabaII · **Joined:** Wed Sep 08, 2010 12:48 am **Posts:** 62

Boiler wrote:

I think 245/75 is pretty much out of the question if you're only adding 1.5" front and rear with stock springs. My shims add about 3/4, and a 3/8" clevis lift will add another 3/4. Two isolators in the rear add about 1.25" as they are about 5/8" thick (for uppers, lower isolators are about 1/2").

I have OME HD lift plus shims up front and I had a ton of rubbing with 245/75. I had to trim the air dam off, pound the pinch weld, and I still have rubbing when turning in reverse.

You might be able to fit them but there will definitely be contact when turning.

The best reason to do a WESWAY is that the components you use don't hurt anything and don't wear out, and can be used with the standard OME/Rancho type lift down the road. You can get improve your entrance/exit angle and breakover angle by having some lift, but you're not going to add enough height to increase the tires much.

Thanks for the info. Main reason I want it is snow. I have to be to work sometimes at 3-4 in the morning to plow and just want to be sure I can get out of my driveway. Last year it took me 2 hours to get out and then I got stuck on the road with my old car. But even 4wds can be sketchy getting out of my driveway. You would think with 3 exits one of them wouldn't be uphill. Worst part is you cant get a run at any of the either. Stupid townhouse. I just need to make sure I have good tires first and foremost.

One quick question. Do I gain anything with being 'Pre-lowered'? It looks like I have more wheel gap then a lot of other Libbys do with stock tire size or is that just me wishing I did?

KoRnyBrad · **Posted:** Fri Oct 22, 2010 1:19 am

Finished up my lift today with help from my Jeep club President and my Dad. Couldn't have got anything done w/o them!

Just had a little trouble with the sway bar bolt and the bolt holding the lower control arm to the clevis. Thanks Missouri salt! Other than that just a little messing around to get parts out and back in.

Rear was already done in these pics

Lift complete!

So far I love it. Perfect lift for me. Not much taller but enough to notice when looking at it and getting in an out of it!

liquidxit2 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:14 pm

Pretty nice for under $100! I would love to do this but I think my shocks/struts and springs are done for. Any more strain and Im afraid they will be 100% shot. Hopefully Uncle Sam will be nice next tax season for my franken HD.

Wanted to say thanks.

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