Think I found a Libby CRD.

ceversole · **Joined:** Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:00 pm **Posts:** 9

I found a black 05 limited with 102,000. Asking price is 11,587. I know the coming timing belt change and other maintenance is going to be pricey, so I hope I can talk him down even more. (It's been sitting on the lot for a couple weeks already)

My question is, should there be any concern buying one after the 100,000 mile mark, aside from the timing belt change? Or should I keep looking for one with lower miles even if it means paying a higher price? If I get this rig, I'd like it to last for another 150,000 miles.

Thanks for any tips, and this forum has been a great resource for me.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:14 pm

If that one is the color you want and has exactly the options you want, I'd buy it. Then I would immediately make sure the timing belt and other maintenance is done.

In my opinion, these engines are too hard to come by and too expensive to gamble with. I'd do the timing belt ASAP and not wait around. If the belt did happen to break at 125K or whatever... you'd kick yourself for a LONG time for not having that taken care of.

I drove 500 miles round trip to get this CRD... but I got what I wanted this time. Leather, sunroof, Limited, color I didn't hate, etc. It's worth getting what you want even if you have to go a little farther. It'll be worth it.

stoutdog · **Posted:** Tue Oct 12, 2010 12:44 pm

Other than the timing belt, you should have nothing to worry about at that mileage. Some would even say the engine is just getting broken in... :2cents:

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 12, 2010 1:34 pm

well if its in great shape and has the equipment and is the color you like I'd buy it and get the timing belt ASAP. I GOT LUCKY I guess I found mine about 40 miles away but it had more toys than I wanted and was more than I wanted to pay. I ended up looking around several counties and finding one close to what I wanted but then to add the missing things it was going to cost me. The first deer called back with a final offer that was only a few hundered more than adding the towing package vent visor and bug shield. Then I still was giving up a sunroof with the silver one. So I got the green one I liked best and got all the toys. I have not regretted it either.

These seen to be getting harder to find and prices are holding

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Oct 12, 2010 8:05 pm

There's another thread about hjow many CRD's are for sale.

As I remember that price be high.
Check the thread.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Oct 12, 2010 11:16 pm

Do the Timing Belt. Figure out what you want the CRD to do and mod accordingly.

ceversole · **Joined:** Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:00 pm **Posts:** 9

Thanks for the info. The Jeep is pretty much what I'm looking for, black with all the goodies except for navigation. The dealer sent me an Autocheck report today, looks like it has been in a "minor accident." Waiting to hear what happened in the accident, etc. I also asked for a carfax report as they are more thorough. The vehicle is about an hour away so I won't get a chance to go check it out till Saturday.

I plan on bringing in a copy of the service manual that shows the 100,000 mile maintenance, a list of CRD's that I've seen sell for less online, and with the "minor accident," (assuming it doesn't affect the performance) I am hoping to take it under 10k out the door. If not, I found an 05 sport a little further away, same mileage, asking 9,995.

We'll see.

Thanks again.

ceversole · **Joined:** Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:00 pm **Posts:** 9

Im back from the dealer. Test drove the Jeep and I really like it. Super clean and looks like its been really taken care of. I called the dealer that did 90% of the maintenance and they said they had to rebuild the tranny twice. (not sure why but I think it had to do with towing too much weight) It has the new (assuming euro) TC on it, new tires, and all recalls have been done. There was a shudder around 55-65 though, only slight but noticeable. I'm hoping an eco tune would get rid of that. Its also still running the stock battery.

They are asking 11,5xx for it. I drove the timing belt issue home, and they offered 10,982 plus a discount on a timing belt change, it would only cost just over $600 for the belt and idler pulleys. So roughly 11,582 with new belt. I told them I'd sleep on it. I was hoping to find one for 10,500 or less, but with the addition of the timing belt, I'm starting to think its a pretty good deal.

What say you?

Thanks again,

Chris

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

I won't buy a used car unless I can get it for 2.5-3k off of the sticker price. Its your money and I wouldn't give it away.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 2:23 pm

Rebuild the tranny? Or replace the torque converter twice?

If it's the tranny they rebuilt, I'd be scared of that one. If it was just the TC that had to be replaced twice, that's very normal. :mrgreen:

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 4:51 pm

Drewd wrote:

I won't buy a used car unless I can get it for 2.5-3k off of the sticker price. Its your money and I wouldn't give it away.

So if I were to sell you a used car and a fair price is $10,000 I should put a sign on it for $13,000 instead?

Westfork · **Joined:** Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:09 am **Posts:** 6

[quote="ceversole"lThere was a shudder around 55-65 though, only slight but noticeable. I'm hoping an eco tune would get rid of that..

What say you?

Thanks again,

Chris[/quote]Shudder around 55-65 should fall in to the out the door cost also. New TC or possibly a pump. I'm guessing the eco tune will not help the shudder, may make it worse. Was the past trans work done by this dealer? If so, buy it at less than wholesale and take it somewhere else to have the work done. Or walk.

dritchie · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 11:11 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

Drewd wrote:

I won't buy a used car unless I can get it for 2.5-3k off of the sticker price. Its your money and I wouldn't give it away.

So if I were to sell you a used car and a fair price is $10,000 I should put a sign on it for $13,000 instead?

I thought that is how it works............ :SOMBRERO:

ceversole · **Joined:** Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:00 pm **Posts:** 9

The tranny was rebuilt by a different dealer, and it was a couple of years ago. When I called them, they said that the previous owner did't have any problems after the rebuild. The TC was only replaced once, and it is the Euro TC. I wish I knew more about how these vehicles are supposed to feel on the road in order to better understand what might be causing the shudder. The dealer was quick to say, "Well, it's a diesel. They vibrate." Also, when I asked about the timing belt, they said they looked at it and it looked fine, expecting me to believe that they would go through all that trouble just to look at it and not change it while they had it apart. :banghead:

Regardless, the shudder is very minimal. Any ideas what could cause that?

I know a guy that owns a different dealership. He is trying to see if he can pick it up from them for wholesale price (I guess dealers do that sometimes), might be able to save me a little more money. Still not sure I'm going to spring for this one though.

ceversole · **Joined:** Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:00 pm **Posts:** 9

Got them down to 10,700 out the door, plus a discount on a timing belt change. ($600-ish)

I'm trying to find extended warranties for this rig, anyone got any tips?

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Fri Oct 22, 2010 4:16 pm

Seems to me you should be able to find a truck with less miles for that price.....

bigbillyboy · **Joined:** Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:10 pm **Posts:** 75

I just bought a 2005 limited with 132,00 miles on it. The rest of the truck was very clean and straight. Drove great. After reading on here, I was no more afraid of the mileage than of one with fewer miles as I it seems like the the things that go wrong with the CRD's aren't related to high mileage. I paid $7,000 for mine, but it needed a new rear axle. I then spent $900 on a new axle, roughly $250 on all new filters and fluids, $550 on timing belt and pulleys, $100 for a new Thermostat, $60 for a new alternator decoupler. I'm in it about $8400 and I have a vibration like you also. I'm pretty sure it's u-joint or driveline related. I imagine I will spend $200, or so on that getting it sorted out. I'm happy with the price paid and the mileage. It's always the little things that add up after a purchase. I try to factor some of those things in to the purchase price, as it's almost guaranteed. In my area, CRD's that weren't equipped like I wanted were going for $12-$17, with about 70K -90K miles. I looked for about 3 months, and didn't want to look any longer.

ceversole · **Joined:** Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:00 pm **Posts:** 9

Thanks for all the info. I've called several other dealers just to see what they would give me for a trade in on this jeep, and both quoted me anywhere from $4,000 -$6,500. It might just be the area im in, but that seems incredibly low.

I am also getting tired of looking so I think I'll probably go for it. They put new tires on it, changed all fluids, and it comes with a 3 month 3,000 mile warranty that is pretty extensive. I'll have to figure out what is causing that shudder within that time to get it fixed. I guess the only thing I really dread is if the turbo goes out without warranty. Other than that, maintenance should be fairly nominal.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sat Oct 23, 2010 5:21 pm

I've got a $5 dollar bill that says the U-joint(s) in the rear driveshaft are about to go boom in that Jeep. It's a VERY common issue in Libertys...and mine went poof this Summer with a shudder feeling noticeable in the steering wheel before it did. Good news is... I bought greasable U-joints at O'reilly Auto Parts for around $30 bucks and replaced both of them and the shudder disappeared. Now I can service them with grease when I want to also.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Oct 25, 2010 8:06 am

I'm suspecting it may already have a tune and possibly the tcm not has not been F37'd. Even with the Euro TC the pre f37 flash you can feel the power of the engine. Kind of like lugging with a stick shift. Post F37 with highter rpms that feeling is gone.
But what I'm discribing is nothing like the original shuddering caused by the tc springs collapsing then bouncing back. That is more like a rocking horse feeling. Mine did that in the first mile I drove it off the dealer's lot new in 06.

As far as what tc it has see if you can get the part number they put in.

Towing a 3000-3500# travel trailer about 6k miles my original TC was disentrigating and spewing clutch material inside the transmission at 33k miles :shock:

Think I found a Libby CRD.

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