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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 3:57 pm 
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Bypass you say? Hmmm. that sounds very interesting in deed. excuse my lack of knowledge, but does that mean we can relocate the oil filter to a safer loacation or does that mean there will be an additional filter added to the system for all that micron filtration stuff :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 4:02 pm 
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OK we have pricing and part numbers. The valve will be the F108 or F108N. The "N" type will allow you to slide a hose onto the end of the valve. The adapter will be part number CDR108. Price as follows The F108 is $20.95, F108N is $21.95 and the CRD108 is $15 shipping $4.50. So you end up at $40.45 for the F108/CRD108 or $41.45 for the F108N/CDR108. If enough interest we can also supply a 2 foot section of the hose to put on the nipple for and additional $1.50. We will have all this on the web sight in a day or so. What we would like those that want to order do is place it online as soon as we get it up. This way as soon as we get the parts in they can be shipped right away. Keep in mind that from 3/23/2006 - 4/03/2006 orders will not be shipped. We do have to take a vacation once in awhile.

Just a bit of information, the thread in the pan is something that is not available and has to be machined. Also the adapter is made just like the OEM plug so you will reuse the seal that is on the plug now with the adapter.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 4:19 pm 
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I want to send the money now !!! But I guess I can wait a day or two . :?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 5:02 pm 
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If you are sending a check you can do so now.

Greg


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 5:09 pm 
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LanduytG wrote:
If you are sending a check you can do so now.

Greg


how would that work. just put the item numbers on the check ?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 5:31 pm 
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0311_DoC wrote:
LanduytG wrote:
If you are sending a check you can do so now.

Greg


how would that work. just put the item numbers on the check ?



That would be fine.

Greg


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 9:56 pm 
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LanduytG wrote:
Just a bit of information, the thread in the pan is something that is not available and has to be machined. Also the adapter is made just like the OEM plug so you will reuse the seal that is on the plug now with the adapter.

Greg



Can someone explain this to me in more detail?? So do we have to machine this to work?

Also, if I buy the one with the nipple on it I can still use it without a hose if I want to right?

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 09, 2006 10:20 pm 
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LibertyCRD wrote:
Can someone explain this to me in more detail?? So do we have to machine this to work?

Also, if I buy the one with the nipple on it I can still use it without a hose if I want to right?
This is a replacement for your stock drain plug. It is a FUMOTO oil drain valve that will come screwed into an adaptor and when you next change your oil you just screw this valve with the adaptor into to the oil pan. There is no machine work for you to do, that is why the adaptor was made.

Yes you can use it without a hose, but why would you???

Can I assume you understand that this FUMOTO Drain Valve will turn an oil change mess into no mess operation. The CRD is real mess to change the oil in and even more so if you have a tranny skid plate. You will be able to drain the oil into a container just by attaching a 3/8" ID hose over the nipple then turn the lever and let the oil drain into your container without getting oil all over you and your garage floor and prevent it from catching in your skid plate and dripping for a week.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 8:46 am 
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OK, so Greg's last statement was just to let us know that IF we ever had to get something made to fit our oil pan, that it would have to be machined as it is not a standard thread. Ahhh... OK. I see now. The way he threw that comment in there it sort of sounded like there was more to it than just screwing this thing in.

So...if I buy this thing for $40 I can unscrew my stock oil pan bolt, screw this adapter and valve in it's place, and I'm done. Right? Cool.

And this in no way affect the oil filter. There was some mention of a bypass filter, and some odd pics in this thread somewhere that confused some guys. This Fumoto valve does not affect our stock oil filter in any way. Right?

OK I am definitely ready to order one now. The CRD oil changes are a mess. And diesel oil is the worst. This valve will be great!

You said the one with the nipple is a tad longer in length, didn't you?

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 9:01 am 
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LibertyCRD wrote:
OK, so Greg's last statement was just to let us know that IF we ever had to get something made to fit our oil pan, that it would have to be machined as it is not a standard thread. Ahhh... OK. I see now. The way he threw that comment in there it sort of sounded like there was more to it than just screwing this thing in. You got it dude.

So...if I buy this thing for $40 I can unscrew my stock oil pan bolt, screw this adapter and valve in it's place, and I'm done. Right? Cool. Correct

And this in no way affect the oil filter. There was some mention of a bypass filter, and some odd pics in this thread somewhere that confused some guys. This Fumoto valve does not affect our stock oil filter in any way. Right? That's correct. The picture I posted on my website mentioned the oilpan had a spot drilled and tapped that you coul possibably add a by-pass filter like Greg sells. However we don't know as yet what thread that plug is and it could be a sensored word thread like the oil drain plugg.

OK I am definitely ready to order one now. The CRD oil changes are a mess. And diesel oil is the worst. This valve will be great! That's a fact

You said the one with the nipple is a tad longer in length, didn't you? about 1/2" is all


This will pay for itself as long as you own the CRD, all it would take is for you to cross thread to OEM bolt and you could be up the creek. However the common thing is it will make the oil change easier and lots and lots cleaner for you. If this adapter had not gotten mfg so as to use the Fumoto drain valve I would have always taken it to the Jeep dealership for the oil change as it is such a mess to do the change on the grage floor. My garage floor doesn't have a sealer on it and the oil stains from my first change will not come out.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2006 2:29 pm 
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Greg,
When will it be up on your web page?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 11:55 am 
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0311_DoC wrote:
Bypass you say? Hmmm. that sounds very interesting in deed. excuse my lack of knowledge, but does that mean we can relocate the oil filter to a safer loacation or does that mean there will be an additional filter added to the system for all that micron filtration stuff :roll:


can anybody answer the above question? :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 3:12 pm 
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Normally it would mean you would have a second filter, but I guess you could block off the original oil filter mount. Hey call Greg and ask him, maybe he can figure something out for those who would want to do a remote mounting or a by-pass. Heck if you have enough money anything can be done.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 3:43 pm 
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oldnavy wrote:
This will pay for itself as long as you own the CRD, all it would take is for you to cross thread to OEM bolt and you could be up the creek.


I agree that this thing will be worth it. But I am not so sure that it would be easy to cross thread the oil pan/bolt.

The oil pan is cast iron and the bolt is brass. They are both pretty hard. You would know if you were not getting it in the threads, in fact you would have to WORK probably to cross thread it...

Not that it is impossible, just not as risky as an aluminum oil pan or the like...

Now, the real deal is the tranny skid. With that in place the oil change is a PITA.

What I want is a way to have something like the fumoto valve to catch oil from unscrewing the oil filter. :) That darn thing is on it's side, so as soon as the seal is broken oil goes all over, and it gets in all the skid plates and is a pain.

Can we get an oil filter valve that lets us drain the oil filter easily (haha). OK, seriously though. The Fumoto will drain the pan effortlessly. What do people do about the oil filter mess?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:11 pm 
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From what Old Navy and Greg were saying, is there is an option with a nipple that you can hook up a small hose to and route it anywhere you want and avoid the skid plate getting a shower.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:29 pm 
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valkraider wrote:
Now, the real deal is the tranny skid. With that in place the oil change is a PITA.

What I want is a way to have something like the fumoto valve to catch oil from unscrewing the oil filter. :) That darn thing is on it's side, so as soon as the seal is broken oil goes all over, and it gets in all the skid plates and is a pain.

Can we get an oil filter valve that lets us drain the oil filter easily (haha). OK, seriously though. The Fumoto will drain the pan effortlessly. What do people do about the oil filter mess?


Shouldn't be much mess from the oil drain plug. When I put my tranny skid on there is a hole that the oil will drop straight thru. Use a piece of cardboard to direct the drips of the oil filter away from the skid plate. Have a can of CRC brake clean to spray off and residue and your done. Opps dont forget to put the plug back in, put the new oil filter on, put oil in the engine. The engine will sound better, and last longer. Disclaimer: If anybody blows up thier CRD by changing the oil, your on your own.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2006 5:44 pm 
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valkraider wrote:
oldnavy wrote:
This will pay for itself as long as you own the CRD, all it would take is for you to cross thread to OEM bolt and you could be up the creek.


I agree that this thing will be worth it. But I am not so sure that it would be easy to cross thread the oil pan/bolt.

The oil pan is cast iron and the bolt is brass. They are both pretty hard. You would know if you were not getting it in the threads, in fact you would have to WORK probably to cross thread it...

Not that it is impossible, just not as risky as an aluminum oil pan or the like...

Now, the real deal is the tranny skid. With that in place the oil change is a PITA.

What I want is a way to have something like the fumoto valve to catch oil from unscrewing the oil filter. :) That darn thing is on it's side, so as soon as the seal is broken oil goes all over, and it gets in all the skid plates and is a pain.

Can we get an oil filter valve that lets us drain the oil filter easily (haha). OK, seriously though. The Fumoto will drain the pan effortlessly. What do people do about the oil filter mess?
Boy what you been smoking??? The oil pan is cast aluminum, not cast iron. :roll: Never seen a cast iron oil pan. :lol:

Buy you books, send you to school, and you still spell tater's with a "p", what are we going to do with you???

When I changed the oil I didn't get oil from the oilfilter anywhere but the drain pan. I just loosened it a turn and let it drain.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 2:18 pm 
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I swear I had read that it was cast iron, in a discussion about skid plates and how the oil pan would be brittle and not take a rock hit well.

Or would that be a characteristic of a cast aluminum pan as well?

Anyway, you (OldNavy) would know as you have actually worked with it. :)

If it is indeed aluminum, then yeah - it would be easy to cross thread.

But my other question was not about draining the *pan*. That drains out clean, once you get your hand and wrench out of the way (which is why I want the Fumoto) - but my question is about the oil *filter*.

When you break the seal on the oil filter, since it is on it's side, all the oil drains out right there. It makes a mess.

Any ideas for that one?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 2:23 pm 
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All I know is im JONESIN for the link to buy the Fumoto setup. I hope Greg puts it on his site soon...

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2006 3:19 pm 
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valkraider wrote:
I swear I had read that it was cast iron, in a discussion about skid plates and how the oil pan would be brittle and not take a rock hit well.

Or would that be a characteristic of a cast aluminum pan as well?

Anyway, you (OldNavy) would know as you have actually worked with it. :)

If it is indeed aluminum, then yeah - it would be easy to cross thread.

But my other question was not about draining the *pan*. That drains out clean, once you get your hand and wrench out of the way (which is why I want the Fumoto) - but my question is about the oil *filter*.

When you break the seal on the oil filter, since it is on it's side, all the oil drains out right there. It makes a mess.

Any ideas for that one?


Yes cast aluminum oil pan will still be easy to bust or crack if you whack it with a rock or road gator.

As for as the filter goes have a large pan under it and then back the filter off just one or two turns to let it dribble iur easy. Then there is the get a plastic bag (Wal-Mart bag works well) and slip over the filter and try to keep the oil in the bag. I would go with the big pan and removing the oilfilter before the drain plug. Then once that is done slide it over to drain the pan, like I did and the oil filter won't be a problem. It wasn't for me, just that drain plug and skid plate.

Hey it was nice to finally catch you slipping up, you were hard to catch. :wink:

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