I was reading about how difficult it is to get rid of varnish build up on internal engine parts once the parts are caked with it. Regular oil changes will not dissolve the varnish, but what do you all think about this stuff?

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-308/LUBEGARD+Engine+Flush

or this:

http://www.gunk.com/CAT_MFD1.asp#

http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo/MFD1.PDF

or this one:

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/flsh.aspx

It looks like that it's been around for some time and the web has some good and bad reviews.

Here is a note on the manufaturers web page that I don't like about it:

"Note: High mileage vehicles and those that have not been maintained properly, according to their service manuals, should have the oil screen and pan examined and cleaned of accumulated dirt and wear materials. Failure to do so can reduce lubricant flow and may lead to engine damage."

What are your thoughts?

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

Yes that stuff has been around for many years

The problem is you only have a problem when the "NOTE" applies and what it indicates is it's too late. 55-60 years ago oil was not like it is today and neither were the engines. Oil started improving around 1960 but it didn't happen over night. Routine oil changes were 1500-2000 miles but sludge was still a BIG problem It was common for fords and chevy's from the 1950 to sound like crickets. It was the rocker arms on the rocker arm shafts making the noise because the oil galley(s) were clogged. It was almost impossible to clean them out.
But if you tried one of those products all h@%% would break loose

I bougt a spotless 00 Cherokee Classic with 148k miles on it two years ago this coming Feburary. Like most XJ's the rear main seal leaked so I pulled the pan. I has happy to see that someone took as good of care of the engine as they did the body and interior. There was nothing to clean, the pan was spotless

So if you use good oil and change it on time there should not be a problem. But "on time" in my thinking is different for everyone. My driving since retirement is way down and mostly short trips So my three vehicles, a 1993 Eurovan I5, 00 Cherokee and 06 CRD get their oil changed every six months that may only be 2k miles on the EV and XJ. The CRD might get a extra one but I change all of them right before winter and in the spring. That way the moisture that might build up inside them is there for the least amount of time.

Your mileage may vary

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Camper?

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

No, a Multi-Van with rear facing second row seats and folding rear seat that makes a bed, twin ac units and heaters. It has a heavy cloth drape with snaps that goes all around the interior so people can't see in the windows that has never been used still in the plastic bag they came in. I'm the second owner and have had it for 10 years. It's the "grandma mobile" that she picks up the grand kids from school in. they're far enough apart they can't hit each other. And the 11 year old grand dog Loki the Rotweiler who has trouble getting around these days. I use it for picking up lumber and other large things too. It's in pretty good shape considering it's age and here it lives.

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Joe,

Thank you for your your advice, it is always well received.

I am just a little concerned about my vehicle because it was not maintained well by the previous owner... It cost me a good amout of change to bring it up to driveable conditions and I am wondering if the oil was neglected as well.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

racertracer

There seems to be a trend with highter milage CRD's that's disturbing. I think one contributor is the oil Chrysler speced for them.

I have used shell rotella, 15-40 in the older and 5-40 in newer ones, in around 20 VW diesels and have never had a engine failure. Neither of my TDI's ever need any oil added between changes and I drove both over 100k. So I bet you know what oil I'm using in my CRD. The last one, a 99.5 Jetta, has the EGR devil too. It's my son's now. (think stage 2 Rocket Tune)

Since you have good reason to suspect neglect if I were you I would cautiously use SeaFoam. And by cautiously I mean put it in and driving it only at lower speeds and for 10-20 miles. Then change the oil and say 500 miles or less later change it again. The whole time keeping an eye on how dirty the oil looks. (can’t stress that enough). Or maybe a small amount added over several 1 or 2 k change itervals.

I would be interested in hearing WARP's thoughts on this.

The last thing you want is a bunch of junk circulating around inside your oil. Just like cholesterol caused clots in your body

I would like to think a good oil changed on time would slowly clean it out. But I would like a lot of things

Joe

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Marketing hype. I've never seen anything build up when synthetic oil is used. Even when it's not; my '98 Subie overheated and cracked the head at 120k, and it was spotless inside. I used cheap-crap 10W-30 every 5k miles whether it needed it or not. And my 240D, I use 15W-40 4x a year. Spotless under the valve cover, and it's got over 200k miles.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---