When the EGR is supposed to be open, the intake is not under boost. It can't be, or the boost would either escape through the exhaust or would slam the FCV plate closed and pop one of the boost hoses from the pressure backup. The exhaust flow is very much under pressure, as the turbo VNT vanes might be open or closed, but without the engine under load, the intake is operating at close to atmospheric pressure. The exhaust however is still expanding hot gas - which creates pressure. Open that valve, and hot exhaust WILL flow into the engine. You don't need to close off the intake to make the EGR work, it only makes it flow MORE exhaust back into the engine.
I was referring to cleaning the motor assembly of the EGR as cannot be cleaned. The valve itself can certainly be cleared of carbon, but if it has built up carbon, chances are that the motor was straining against that carbon to move the EGR valve, and may have burnt itself out already.
ATXKJ: I am quite calm, but I write long posts so that people can have a clear picture of the information all in one place. I might have been a little presumptive about suggesting a lawyer, but I do feel that Missy may not be getting the best service from this dealer on her car. Retail pricing for parts is one thing, but it doesn't mean that the customer has to accept the prices blindly. Asking for a better rate on parts or price matching with another dealer's online agent (or even a shop selling at a slight markup but STILL not buying at true dealer cost) is only good business. Why pay $10 for a McWhopper burger when you know it comes from the dollar menu? They are entitled to a markup, but at what point do those profits become excessive? It is up to the consumer to answer that, by asking for a better rate or shopping elsewhere. The merchant can compromise or lose business to a more affordable competitor.
Every time I go to the dealer parts counter to purchase something, I ask for the shop rate. Sometimes I get it without question, other times they ask what business name (I have a few that I use, none are auto shops) Sometimes they look up the company name and tell me it isn't in their system... And even then, they say that they can offer me 10-15% off of the original rate. Its all about pressing for the better deal. If they don't want to, the worst they can say is "No" and you are still stuck with the original price. I only get stuck with the original price about 1/10 of the time.
But paying far above retail rate on parts AND labor? That is unfair on the part of the dealer. If you are used to paying $200 / hour for labor, I feel sorry for you. I would have said it was a "in the South" thing about rates of about $120/hr at dealers, except I remember out in Las Vegas where the VW dealer's rate on the wall was $110, and the independent shop in Alb, NM where I got my RV's fuel pump fixed had a sign of $90/hr. But that doesn't excuse the stacking of the book rate on labor that seems like it is happening to Missy. If I read her list wrong, then I will edit my post and fix the errors. But it certainly seems like they are stacking. Book labor exists for a reason - It keeps everyone (hopefully) honest about the rates. Their labor rate should at least compare in the same range as dealers nearby, and it should be posted somewhere. How they apply that rate and the book values for the labor is the question here.
I agree with your last line, and I apologize to everyone if I seemed to be attributing this to malice. This dealer is incompetent, and Missy should not have to pay for that from her vehicle or wallet. Fighting these numbers with knowledge and examples to back her up is the best way to save money at this point.
_________________ Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you! Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most. Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs. Bad noises = REALLY bad things.
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