Noise from throttle body

Dean · **Joined:** Sun May 09, 2010 7:52 am **Posts:** 16

Hello all. I have a very loud noise that is coming from the thrttle body housing. It sounds like an electric motor that is spinning against a stuck gear. It starts when the key is in the on position, and it stops a few seconds after I turn the key off. When I removed the electrical plug that is attacted to the housing, the noise stopped , so I am sure that it came from there. (Actually, it was hard to miss!) Up to now, the truck is running normally in spite of the noise, and the dealership wants $800 to change it, so I am not in a hurry to do anything yet.
So, as usual, any suggestions from all of you would be greatly appreciated.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Dec 15, 2010 3:35 pm

What's making your noise is the FCV (flow control valve). It operates during normal operation in conjunction with the MAF to activate the EGR. At shutdown it partially closes to make shutdown a little "softer".

You can unplug it if you want the noise to go away, though that will throw a CEL if that bothers you.

It's a pricey little part new but fairly easy to install. If you choose not to replace it it will just keep making noise for a long long time but never throw a CEL and should still pass an emissions test just fine.

Also, since you seem pretty new here you should check out the noob guide:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54207

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The part number for the intake throttle (FCV as Chrysler calls it) is 5142799AA and sells for about $310 online. $500 for less than one hour in labor from the dealer is not the best deal! You can always invest in a tune that will fix the CEL and just unlpug the unit.

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Dec 17, 2010 4:26 pm

Mine died about 6 months ago and the gears (luckily) stripped in the "open" position. If you have a good set of metric allen wrenches and a little skill, you can replace it yourself in under one hour...or you can just unplug it and not worry about it (I forget that mine is disconnected). No codes, no CEL.

If you replace it yourself, take the cool-side intercooler hose, the battery, and the brace that runs between the engine and the alternator. The 4 allen bolts are around the perimeter of the unit and the back side ones are hard to see, but not hard to reach with an L-shaped allen wrench and a little cheater-handle.

Dan

tonycrd · **Posted:** Tue Dec 21, 2010 2:00 pm

Here's what's wrong with it....it has plastic gears..of which 2 teeth break of after a while

And if you wonder what we are talking about, it's number 5 in this pic. If you follow the intake hose you can't miss it.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Dec 21, 2010 2:52 pm

An easier solution to avoiding the CEL idiot light from unplugging it, is to simply unscrew the disc from the center shaft inside the intake path. That blocking plate is held in by two screws. Once removed, you can simply ignore the broken motor buzzing, as your CRD will be able to breathe properly whenever it is running.

GDE is correct, one of their tunes would also neuter the device, and will make your CRD run better than it was new. That is worth it, but expensive.

Noise from throttle body

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