So, my turbo is toast - Help!

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Dec 05, 2010 10:48 pm

Interesting find on Garrett's website. I did a search for their OEM turbo replacement after reading about the turbo speed sensor they have, and got this in result:

Garrett Part Number 763360-5001S
Direct Service Replacement -
OE 35242115F
Turbo Model GTA2056V
Technology VNT
Actuation Pneumatic
Vehicle Classification PV
Manufacturer JEEP
Model Liberty 2.8 CRD
Year 2005
Fuel Diesel
Engine Manufacturer VM MOTORI
Code R2816K5
Emission Regulation Euro IV
Displacement (L) 2.8
Cylinders 4
Power (KW HP PS) 120 KW 161 HP 163 PS@ 3800rpm
Torque (Nm LB/Ft) 400 Nm 296 LB/Ft @ 1800rpm

The interesting thing here? - The "Engine Code" as listed by Garrett. We have all thought the engine in our CRD is the VM R428. Turns out, we are looking by the wrong number! I wonder if a visit to a Detroit Diesel shop with THAT number might turn up the ability to order parts? I know they couldn't find the R428 in their books when I went after my engine blew... With the right information (rather than trying to search by application) they might be able to get some happiness delivered by the UPS Santa to us needy CRD owners.

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 05, 2010 11:58 pm

The two terminology are synonymous: R2816K5 and R428 can be considered the same. K5 is 05MY, K6 is 06MY, then ended with K7 as 07MY.

R2516/R2816 would be more fittingly used to describe the first-gen engine used in 02-04MY KJ.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Dec 06, 2010 12:58 am

Well Garrett's site did offer only 04 / 05 as the model years for that engine, but it was searching by vehicle make and model. I figured their info might have been off based on when they delivered to Mopar, and possibly the turbos then sat for a while. No big deal, my point was that I knew the R428 number when I went to Detroit Diesel, but their book didn't have that number. Maybe they had the R2816 number, I don't know, but isn't it worth a shot? As for the K5 / K6 / K7 to the year, that is familiar to me from somewhere else... But it escapes my mind at the moment.

shelbydz · **Posted:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 3:50 pm

I have the old turbo almost out.

I can't seem to get the last two bolts loosened, these would be the two connected to the exhaust manifold that are towards the front of the car. I've removed the oil return line and the support bracket. I just don't seem to have room. I can JUST barely get a wrench on there, but I don't have enough torque to loosen it. I tried my longer breaker bar, but it has too much flex and there's not enough room to break it loose.

I did spray some liquid wrench on them so hopefully that will help, but does anyone have other advice? I was going to hook up my compressor and see if my 3/8" will fit up there AND give me the leverage I need.

I will be
* Changing the oil and the filter (I found Mobile 1 5w/40 API CJ-4)
* Cleaning the air filter (K&N)
* Cleaning the Intercooler hoses
* Cleaning the air intake hose

Anything else I should do before I start my Jeep back up after the swap? Is there a way to prime the oil to the turbo before I actually start the engine?

thx

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 4:31 pm

My suggestion would be try a 1/2" standard wrench with the loop end over the nut for the bottom one - I have never been able to hit that with a socket, the body of the snail is in the way. The first time I did it was from below, that wasn't much fun at all. The second time, I got all 4 from above, laying on top of the engine and reaching behind the turbo (between turbo and firewall) to get the wrench onto that same nut.

If you have a shallow-depth socket that is a 1/4" drive, you *might* be able to get that onto the nut and use an extension to get the wrench past the snail, then use a small length of pipe over the wrench to lengthen the handle for power. Not saying you won't break the extension, but it is an option. Wobble extensions are also a possibility. I had the best results with just the wrench for the tough nuts, and a socket on the easier ones. Really crap location, isn't it?

ibedonc · **Joined:** Mon Feb 12, 2007 2:40 pm **Posts:** 236

Did you get a Turbo ?

I have one if you need it , < 25k on it , was pulled for GDE turbo upgrade

shelbydz · **Posted:** Tue Dec 14, 2010 7:01 pm

ibedonc wrote:

Did you get a Turbo ?

I have one if you need it , < 25k on it , was pulled for GDE turbo upgrade

Yeah, I got a remaned one from http://usedturbos.net/. Thanks though (:

I'll post some pics up of the old/new one. You can totally tell that the oil was coming FROM the turbo. It's all over the compressor housing, the oil return line and the under side of the skid plate. I have to send the old one in for a core, but I may take it apart first and take pics of the seals.

shelbydz · **Posted:** Sat Dec 18, 2010 9:32 pm

Awesome, I got the old one out today. My large breaker bar with a 6" extension JUST squeezed in there and broke the front bottom bolt loose. I took the wastegate off the turbo and was able to see the last bolt from the top! That one was actually the easiest.

I have the new one 90% in. I'll finish tomorrow.

After I get everything done, how do I prime oil to the turbo? Is there a way for me to crank the engine and not let it start?

Thnx

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Dec 18, 2010 11:13 pm

I wouldn't worry about that - The turbo will be oiled within the first second or so of the engine starting, and as long as you don't start the engine with your foot on the floor of the go-pedal, the turbo won't be given enough exhaust energy to spin fast enough to cause damage. I didn't do anything special with mine at all, just started and let the engine idle for a couple minutes while I checked everything for leaks.

You might even want to start the engine briefly with the heat shield off, just to visually verify that the tubing gaskets are sealed and not leaking / weeping oil.

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 19, 2010 12:02 am

You removed the pneumatic VGT actuator from the turbo? That is a big big no-no, since they are precisely calibrated in their actuating position from the factory and removing them disturbs that relationship (the ECU will have to command a different duty cycle to the PWM actuator on the passenger side wheelhouse to have the turbo in the same relative location).

shelbydz · **Posted:** Thu Dec 23, 2010 3:53 pm

geordi wrote:

I wouldn't worry about that - The turbo will be oiled within the first second or so of the engine starting, and as long as you don't start the engine with your foot on the floor of the go-pedal, the turbo won't be given enough exhaust energy to spin fast enough to cause damage. I didn't do anything special with mine at all, just started and let the engine idle for a couple minutes while I checked everything for leaks.

You might even want to start the engine briefly with the heat shield off, just to visually verify that the tubing gaskets are sealed and not leaking / weeping oil.

Good call. I did that last night. I caught a tiny trickle of oil coming down the under side of the turbo. I tightened down the oil feed line and that seemed to take care of it. Now, I didn't put any teflon or sealant on that bolt but it's in there super tight. I could see where some anaerobic RTV would work at the top of the bolt, but I wasn't sure if it was needed. Does any one know?

I didn't drive the Jeep today. I wanted to take it slowly around the block a few times before I got on the highway.

thx

KYMidnight · **Posted:** Sat Dec 25, 2010 10:41 pm

MrMopar64 wrote:

You removed the pneumatic VGT actuator from the turbo? That is a big big no-no, since they are precisely calibrated in their actuating position from the factory and removing them disturbs that relationship (the ECU will have to command a different duty cycle to the PWM actuator on the passenger side wheelhouse to have the turbo in the same relative location).

I think he just did this to the old "dead" turbo to break the last bolt free. At least, that's the way I read it.

So, my turbo is toast - Help!

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