Waiting for the bad news....

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

VM has specs for this engine peak exhaust gas temps for both pre and post turbine. If installing the probe in downpipe it should be 150mm downstream of marmon flange on turbine. The temp limit in this position is 650 C. If you install a probe in the exhaust manifold the temp limit is 750-800 C depending on some environmental factors.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:03 pm

GreenDieselEngineering wrote:

VM has specs for this engine peak exhaust gas temps for both pre and post turbine. If installing the probe in downpipe it should be 150mm downstream of marmon flange on turbine. The temp limit in this position is 650 C. If you install a probe in the exhaust manifold the temp limit is 750-800 C depending on some environmental factors.

Thanks for the specs Keith! That is something definite that I hadn't seen until now. For the Celsius-challenged among us, that translates to 1382-1472 degrees F, for the PRE-TURBO location, and 1202 degrees F for the post-turbo.

One clarification I have for you though - Are those numbers for sustained temperatures, or momentary peaks? Because with my probe, sometimes when I nail the throttle (and not towing) the gauge will run up to about 1300, then spike to it's limit of 1600. This makes me think that the temps are in excess of the probe's limit. As soon as I back off, the needle returns to normal operation.

For the record, I have never had sustained pre-turbo temps higher than 1250, and that was only sustained for about 30 seconds while getting my giant trailer up a hill at 50mph. Yea, I did a LOT of cooldown idling after that trip.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

The exhaust temp data we posted is for intermittant peak operation lasting 30 minutes or less. The limits for continuous operation are 50 C less for the pre and post turbine temps. It sounds like your sensor may be acting strange when it jumps to 1600F.

kdlewis1975 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 10, 2011 6:54 pm

[quote="geordi"]One clarification I have for you though - Are those numbers for sustained temperatures, or momentary peaks? Because with my probe, sometimes when I nail the throttle (and not towing) the gauge will run up to about 1300, then spike to it's limit of 1600. This makes me think that the temps are in excess of the probe's limit. As soon as I back off, the needle returns to normal operation.
quote]

Just speculation here...I wonder if your probe, and probably most others, are based on J-type thermocouples. At 1300 F (or 704 C), it's approaching the upper limit of the range which is 750 C. If a thermocouple has a magnetic metal as part of its composition, it starts doing odd things when it reaches its Curie point (loss of magnetism which will affect the voltage output, 770 C for the iron component). When I use thermocouples in the lab, I need to adjust the offset voltage for use with a temperature controller because no two read the same...once adjusted, that thermocouple is typically assigned to a particular instrument forever. I know the anomaly you are observing is a bit before the limit, but the probes sold for pyrometers may not be made to the same standard as those meant for use in a science lab....

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:04 pm

Interesting theory, and one which is entirely possible.

The probe and gauge came together, and it didn't always do this. The point that it starts spiking to the max may be as high as 1400*F, I just usually notice that it goes back to 1300~ when I let off. When it first started doing this, I thought that it might be a wire problem, as it was intermittent. But after swapping the probe to my other turbo when I switched them (VNT problem) I checked the whole thing and found nada. All looked good, the probe wasn't kinked or scorched looking... And the wires were fine. So I don't know. It only behaves in this way now, so if I replace the probe, I'm probably going to have to replace the gauge too. I don't know if the probe for the higher-limit EGT gauges will work with this 1600 limit gauge. Since it only does this when I nail it, or am pulling a steep hill... I don't really worry about it. Not so many big grades here on the Easy Coast, like out West. :goink:

jinstall · **Posted:** Mon Jan 10, 2011 11:53 pm

What would the after turbo location be exactly? Anyone have a photo of one? I would have to mark it for welding and would like to only do it once. I still ahev to get the deale rot remove it and send it to me.

jinstall · **Posted:** Wed Jan 12, 2011 2:54 pm

AUGH i just got a call form Jeep and they said the ETA on the engine is 2 MARCH2011. GGGRRRRR

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:14 pm

Well chin up... as the saying goes good things come to those who wait.

How much will this fiasco set you back?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:54 pm

jinstall wrote:

AUGH i justs got a call form Jeep and they said the ETA on the engine is 2 MARCH2011. GGGRRRRR

That wrecked CRD is coming up for auction next week. Still not too late.

dkenny · **Posted:** Wed Jan 12, 2011 6:10 pm

Thanks for the info on the EGT temps?

What should they cool down too before shutting off the engine?
Does is change with dino oil or synthetic?

-dkenny

jinstall · **Posted:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:42 am

I am looking at buying a beater in the coming week so I can give my brother his extra car back. Jeep refuses to pay more than 7 days for a rental. I keep explaining to them it is their problem that it is taking so long not mine. They are now pushing the issue onto the dealer.

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 8:56 am

jinstall wrote:

I am looking at buying a beater in the coming week so I can give my brother his extra car back. Jeep refuses to pay more than 7 days for a rental. I keep explaining to them it is their problem that it is taking so long not mine. They are now pushing the issue onto the dealer.

Then if Jeep is covering a 7 day rental, they are owning up to the fact they screwed up and will be paying you for your loss...... is that correct?

Will Jeep be paying for the vehicle to be repaired in total?

Inquiring minds want to know.

jinstall · **Posted:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:02 pm

No they will not be paying. I have to foot the entire bill. I will advise anyone else that asks me my opinion on Jeep, to look somwhere other than Chrysler products unless they are in Europe where there are CERTIFIED mechanics and serivice centers to work on their vehicles. My dad is already looking to trade his 2007 Dodge truck in on a new Ford F-150 with Eco-Boost just on the issues I have had with my Jeep. My brother is looking at dumping his Dodge Neon as well.

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:09 pm

Bummer!

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 1:52 am

x2 on the bummer, and welcome to my world. After the joy I had dealing with Mopar Corporate even BEFORE I lost the engine when they killed my warranty for no reason other than their computer decided... I decided that it would snow in Hell before I ever bought another Chrysler product.

reka12 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:46 am

Ditto with us on the Durango. Had issues that should have been covered under warranty (head gasket at 38K) or at least a goodwill gesture, but nothing. Nada. Not even a don't let the door hit on the #$%@ on the way out. Last Dodge we owned.

Now, as much as I love the Liberty CRD, I cannot imagine gettting another Jeep (even though the GCs look tempting) due to their customer support or lack of it, being provided to the diesel owners and by reading the rest of the board, the other Libby owners. I really feel like I have paid for temporary vehicle that once it breaks, I have to give it up.

jinstall · **Posted:** Tue Jan 25, 2011 11:45 pm

UPDATE: Motor now pushed back to mid March from Italy. I just returned from New Jersey from buying a car. Instead of forking out for a rental car from Thanksgiving 2010 to now lets say begining April 2011, I spent money on a used car. Why throw more money away? So I am now a proud owner of a 2004 Ford Focus SVT EAP with a80% ST170 conversion. Great car and not what I wanted but I am so glad I happened apon it. So is the previous owner. Super clean and looks great, I already had people take a photo of it at a rest area on the way back.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 3:04 am

Sir Sam wrote:

jinstall wrote:

AUGH i justs got a call form Jeep and they said the ETA on the engine is 2 MARCH2011. GGGRRRRR

That wrecked CRD is coming up for auction next week. Still not too late.

That wrecked CRD sold for $850 last week.

jinstall · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 8:25 am

No I am going to see this through. Thanks though Sam. Any other time I jump on this. Once all is said and done with the KJ, I am going to do service MY WAY. I tried to play it by their rules and look where I am now. So this time around I will do it my way, the proven way, on keeping this vehicle alive for more than 6 years. I have already dropped my bank that did the financing on my last 2 cars when thye would not give me the loan to fix the KJ. So now everything is done through USAA, a great company and fantastic customer service that goes above and beyond. Something Jeep Customer Service could learn from.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 2:34 pm

jinstall wrote:

No I am going to see this through. Thanks though Sam. Any other time I jump on this.

I think you misunderstood, I'm just saying that there may be less expensive and time consuming ways to get through this, that is if your not already locked into path you are on now.

Waiting for the bad news....

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