Coolant Flush (round 2)

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:34 am

Roostre wrote:

Quick question. Are these systems supposed to have pressure on them when cold?

I have seen a lo coolant alarm on very cold mornings that goes away in a few minutes of driving. Yesterday, I popped the hood to investigate. The coolant level was about 1/2" below the cold mark. It surprised me when I opened the cap it 'popped' off like it had several pounds of pressure- and this was on a stone cold motor.

I had the same problem, turned out to be the small OEM spring clamps holding the 3/8" coolant hoses at the top and bottom of the plastic reservoir tank. They had lost their strenght and leaked (small drips) when the engine reached at high temperature and high pressure.

I replaced them with 3/8" screw strap/hose clamps and the problem went away, this maybe what you are experiencing.

Roostre · **Joined:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 3:57 pm **Posts:** 195

racertracer wrote:

Roostre wrote:

Quick question. Are these systems supposed to have pressure on them when cold?

I have seen a lo coolant alarm on very cold mornings that goes away in a few minutes of driving. Yesterday, I popped the hood to investigate. The coolant level was about 1/2" below the cold mark. It surprised me when I opened the cap it 'popped' off like it had several pounds of pressure- and this was on a stone cold motor.

I had the same problem, turned out to be the small OEM spring clamps holding the 3/8" coolant hoses at the top and bottom of the plastic reservoir tank. They had lost their strenght and leaked (small drips) when the engine reached at high temperature and high pressure.

I replaced them with 3/8" screw strap/hose clamps and the problem went away, this maybe what you are experiencing.

Thanks racer!

What about the pressure on the cold system?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 01, 2011 1:21 pm

Roostre wrote:

What about the pressure on the cold system?

That was vacuum and not pressure and in some cases normal.

Roostre · **Joined:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 3:57 pm **Posts:** 195

tjkj2002 wrote:

Roostre wrote:

What about the pressure on the cold system?

That was vacuum and not pressure and in some cases normal.

I'm used to vacuum; this was most definitely pressure- the cap jumped up into my hand which surprised the heck out of me. Started me worrying that I had a head gasket issue, but there are zero other symptoms right now.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:19 pm

Roostre wrote:

Thanks racer!

What about the pressure on the cold system?

I also felt pressure under the cap when the engine was cold, which confused me.

I was told that a failed spring clamp will hold a lesser amount of pressure when cold, but that it will not have enough strenght when the engine reaches high temps and full pressure.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sun Apr 03, 2011 12:31 am

I have been monitoring posts of members doing coolant changes.
I still not convinced that all of the fluid can be drained. Even with the truck at an angle, lower hose off and shop vac'ed.

But an RV inline filter may do the trick:

Finish flush with filtered water.

RJM · **Posted:** Sun Apr 03, 2011 1:45 pm

I use a "Mighty Vac" to blow out any residual coolant or water after flushing lines. After a few minutes you can be sure that anything left in coolant passages and cavities will be gone.

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 292

RJM wrote:

I use a "Mighty Vac" to blow out any residual coolant or water after flushing lines. After a few minutes you can be sure that anything left in coolant passages and cavities will be gone.

Can you explain your procedure in detail. I am about to do my coolant change for the first time and read a lot about citric acid after using Shout. Shout rids you of oilly residue and Citric Acid of any other scaling, etc.

So, what is your total procedure, if you do not mind sharing.

Thanks for contributing.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Mon Apr 04, 2011 6:45 pm

RJM wrote:

I use a "Mighty Vac" to blow out any residual coolant or water after flushing lines. After a few minutes you can be sure that anything left in coolant passages and cavities will be gone.

I used a 675 W (5.6Amp) Shop Vac. Small but fairly powerful.
I did blow through the foam to keep contaminates out and to vent a little. I was hesitant to blow directly from the vacuum for fear of breaking something. It is always hard to go first.

Let me know the Amp rating of your model.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:29 pm

Squeeto wrote:

I was hesitant to blow directly from the vacuum for fear of breaking something. It is always hard to go first.

Let me know the Amp rating of your model.

OK, lets get this into perspective:

http://www.mytoolstore.com/shopvac/indspecs.html

Look at the static pressure specs.

1psi = 28H2O" Your vac is capable of generating 2-3psi. You won't damage anything with it.

RJM · **Posted:** Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:49 am

Yes! low pressure....high volume. Thats the ticket. The Mighty Vac is designed this way to blow out swimming pool lines for the winter.Works well on cooling systems to.

Coolant Flush (round 2)

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