Help Fuel injector problem

spud68 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 11, 2011 7:08 pm

I know you guys are the foremost authority on these little buggers..... up until now Mine has been behaving pretty good. I've had a Turbo hose go and I have the GDE eco tune to fix the EGR. Other than that she's been good.

While under the hood today checking things out, I heard a air leak sound.... I tracked it down and it looks like its coming from around the base of the first Fuel injector looking from the front of the Jeep. The only symptoms are it is a little hard starting in the morning and there is an exhaust smell from the area. No codes show up on the reader. My questions are:

1. Is there a gasket that may need replacing? I checked the bolts and they are tight.

2. What are the signs of injector failure.

3. Can I just take it out and re-seat it and hope for the best? any thing I should watch out for?

Thanks a bunch for your help! Have a great day!
Spud

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Fri Feb 11, 2011 7:35 pm

Most of the time one bad injector will cause a partial miss causing the engine to shake at idle.
In the old days, I would be very careful (not to inject myself with fuel, a very bad thing to do), use a long wrench and crack open the injector line to find the bad injector. With the common rail having just shy of 10 times the pressure at times the old stuff ran at, I would never try it. Also since it is common rail, if you opened up the line, all of the injectors would not get pressure and you would have a big leak along with a stalled engine and a greater risk of injecting yourself with fuel.
Check your codes with an OBD II scanner, even if you don't handle wrenches well, you need to check so you don't get hosed by the shop or stealer. Sometimes the OBD II will lie to you with a false code when you have a bad connection to the ECM or the injector, so check the plugs before you get out your credit card.
Use a small hose in your ear to verify an injector to head leak, they are very rare, manifold gasket leaks are more common. Sound has a way of throwing its' self around under the hood.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri Feb 11, 2011 7:54 pm

Sounds like you need to replace the copper washer sealing the injector to the head. It has happened to someone on this board. Lucky for you it's the front one, much easier to get to.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Fri Feb 11, 2011 7:59 pm

CATCRD wrote:

Sounds like you need to replace the copper washer sealing the injector to the head. It has happened to someone on this board. Lucky for you it's the front one, much easier to get to.

X2

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Has the aluminum around the injector been darkened from the leak?

If you have air, clean out around the injector before removing. The injector can be wiggled a few degrees each direction to help work it out if it is frozen. There is a o-ring on the side of the injector, it may tear on the way out...hopefully not. Needs a little antiseize on the injector body for reinstallation. It just makes the next service much easier.

Clean the sealing surface in the head as best you can. The copper gasket can be removed and usually cleans up well, if not, it can be lightly hit with 600-1000 grit to smooth it out. The torque spec is 24 ft*lb, but it seems a little light.

Could be a good morning project.

spud68 · **Posted:** Fri Feb 11, 2011 10:42 pm

Thanks a lot guys! I was thinking it was the copper washer or the O-ring. its clearly coming out near the head at the bottom of the injector. I didn't notice if it was darkened or not (will look tomorrow) can you just change out the O-ring and washer, without a new injector?

the engine is smooth. just a pssst- pssst- psst- psst :-)r

sound from around the injector.

I read about the high pressure, but with the engine off is there anything special to do? It didn't look like it from the FSM?

Thanks again for the help. knock on wood it is the front injector :BANANA:

Spud

spud68 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 12, 2011 5:57 pm

Hey Guys.... I just looked and the area around the injector is black and gooey. what does that mean? also is there a trick to getting that sucker out? I have the fuel line disconnected and the little hose on the top. what else am I missing? it will twist side to side about a 1/4 inch but no movement upwards. any help is greatly appreciated! Have a great day!

Spud

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

I assume you removed the retention bolt and crow's foot clamp. The black goo is from the injector leak. Just keep working it from side to side while putting upward pressure on the injector with a small crow bar. Make sure the crow bar is in the same location where the crow's foot held the injector. I little penetrating lube at the base of injector migh also help.

spud68 · **Posted:** Sun Feb 13, 2011 8:02 pm

Whew... Finally worked that thing out..... The copper washer looks good, its just the O-ring was torn apart, black and crusty?????

There is a LOT of carbon buildup in the hole down to the cylinder head. Is there a trick to cleaning it? The FSM say to use a bore brush????? How clean does it really have to be?

Spud

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:00 am

Without looking at the FSM, normally "bore brush" would translate as a pistol/rifle/shotgun bore brush which I've used from time to time to clean interior threads. You will need a bore brush of the appropriate "caliber" and a rod/handle to hold it (base of brush has threads so it screws into the rod/handle). Pay attention to the direction of the bore brush threads so that you don't unscrew it from the handle as you use it.

spud68 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 14, 2011 8:38 pm

Thanks for all the great advise! I knew this was the best place for answers. I got her all back together and she runs better than in a while! seems to start easier....and runs smoother.... aynway I just thought I would share a couple of things I learned.

1. a ball joint spreader fits where the crows foot was and made it easier to pry out. just use a crescent wrench to twist the injector and put upward pressure and it will come right out.

2. To clean out the recess. I used the 12 Ga bore brush from a gun cleaning kit. It fits perfect!

3. I taped a 3/8 inch fuel line to my shop vac to clean the debris from the hole and around the injector.

Have a great day!
Spud

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:47 pm

It's always good to hear what the outcome is, many times we are left hanging not knowing if the issue was resolved.

JadeCrew · **Joined:** Thu Nov 25, 2010 12:41 am **Posts:** 12

i think you need to replace the gasket. heres how.
1
Open the hood and locate the lower radiator hose.
2
Place a drain pan under the radiator. Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator.
Drain the cooling system.
4
Remove any parts, electrical connections, or hoses to gain access to the intake manifold.
5
Gain access to the valve cover.
6
Remove the valve cover.
7
Unbolt exhaust manifold from the vehicle.
Remove head bolts in reverse of manufacture recommended installation procedures.
8 4 2 6 10
Example: Ã Front of engine
7 3 1 5 9
9
Remove cylinder head from engine block.
10
Remove head gasket.
11
With a straight edge and feeler gauge inspect cylinder head for straightness.
12
Clean mating surfaces making sure to remove all old gasket material.
13
Install a new head gasket.
14
Reverse removal procedures for installation.
15
Refill the radiator with coolant.
Fill overflow reservoir with the same coolant.
17
Perform pressure test the cooling system and check for any leaks. Top off the coolant level.
18
Install the radiator cap.
Road test the vehicle. Keep an eye on the engine temperature gauge- if the vehicle runs hot, there still might be an air pocket in the cooling system. The cooling system should be toped off after the vehicle has fully cooled down.

source: http://www.automd.com/83/102643/how-to- ... 8-cyl-68l/

Help Fuel injector problem

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