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Wow, I guess I have a magic device then, and a magical CRD to boot, because my experience has been the complete opposite of the opinions posted here.
My CRD has the Mopar remote starter. Yes, it has a separate little one-button remote that activates it.
The exhaust temps from an idling engine (as measured from the turbo inlet just off the manifold) are 375-400*F, within 2 minutes of starting. So I guess that means that the engine *IS* warming itself up. Yes, it will take a long time, but it WILL do it. Meanwhile, the Viscous Heater is running and heating the coolant too.
The A/C controls ARE energized, as the fan and temperature settings that I left them on will be the determining factor if the system is trying to cool or heat the interior while it is idling. Works great in the summer and winter.
The Mopar remote starter waits either 3 seconds or 30 seconds after "key on" before starting the engine, depending on how it is programmed. I have it on the 3 second "gas" mode, which is perfect. 3 seconds is longer than I usually wait between key-on and starting when I'm doing it live.
Fuel dilution in the oil? Soot in the turbo? Are we REALLY coming back to those old wives' tales? The turbo is ALWAYS MOVING, because the flow of oil puts it into an almost frictionless state. It is also ALWAYS getting soot flowing into it. I would contend that the soot levels from idling are the LEAST soot-producing engine mode however, because the engine is naturally running in an ultra-lean mode. Can't make soot without fuel, and idling is the most efficient user of that tiny amount of fuel. Soot in the intake is a problem, I agree with you on that... IN ALL operating modes. Thank the EPA nannies for that, not the engine idling. Unless you have done something about the problem, like an SEGR device... You WILL have soot contamination back into the intake and cylinders. Soot is bad b/c it is abrasive inside the engine. You don't want to re-introduce it, ever.
For the "fuel dilution" claim, simply look at your oil dipstick. Is oil shooting from the top of it? Overrunning the full mark at all? No? Even when you are "idling" your engine constantly in heavy traffic or at lights? The oil is still at a normal level? Oh, then I guess that means that the engine's rings are doing their job: Being spring-loaded and containing the oil where it needs to be, and the fuel on the other side. Unless there is physical evidence of this claim... It isn't happening. A normal functioning engine WILL NOT have this issue at ANY mode of operation, hot cold or in between.
Look at the evidence and make your decision. I love my remote starter, even though it looks like the wiring to fool the anti-theft key system (also factory designed) was installed by a drunk and a gorilla.
_________________ Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you! Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most. Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs. Bad noises = REALLY bad things.
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