Code after timing belt

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 2:32 am

Replaced the timing belt tonight and when we started, the motor is louder than usual and I got a P0340 code. Cleared it and it didn't come back but it's still extra diesely.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 7:08 am

P0340 has something to do with the Camshaft Position Sensor.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Did you use the timing tools to lock the cams in place as well as the cam gear locking tool? The camshaft code can be set if the timing window between cam and crank signals is out of tolerance. The code is more sensitive at low rpm when it is easier for the electronics to validate the window tolerance.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 9:29 am

A timing belt redo maybe in order. We welcome you to the "IF AT FIRST YOU DON’T SUCCEED READ THE INSTRUCTIONS CLUB”, where I am a full-fledged member.

Ripple · **Posted:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 10:39 am

make sure the ETC sensor on the back of the thermostat is plugged in. it will runs rough without it plugged in, does not explain the code though.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 11:11 am

We didn't use the tools, but we did follow the procedures outlined on GDE, AllData and we used the bolts specd in the CRD Tech section to lock the cams which seemed to work. I didn't drive home last night and we'll see what's doing today.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 12:01 pm

When I get to work today, the first thing I'm trying is the healing power of laughter.

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 12:39 pm

If you only did the belt, why did you loosen the cam sprockets....

Anyway, what did you guys use to hold the camsprockets?

onthehunt · **Posted:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 12:54 pm

Quote:

We welcome you to the "IF AT FIRST YOU DON’T SUCCEED READ THE INSTRUCTIONS CLUB”,

Unfortunately, this usually doesn't apply to timing belts. Sometimes you have to learn the hard way($$$$) Hopefully, you are just a tooth off.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 1:17 pm

We replaced everything outlined in the parts list

tonycrd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 1:25 pm

Ok.

Did you lock the crankshaft?

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Feb 18, 2011 2:13 pm

We removed the plugs and locked in the appropriate spec'd bolts at the top of the engine and the 6mm key on the bottom just above the oil filter.

When we finished the job, we turned the engine 720 deg as outlined in the GDE write up to check if the tensioner still lined up... it didn't at first so we re-adjusted. There were no indications that anything was awry, the hardest part was replacing the darn thermostat which took the same time as the rest of the job.

I am pretty sure that we're a tooth off on the exhaust side... which direction is the question.

BTW, the timing belt that we removed looked as good of condition as the new one that went in.

If we don't get 'er tonight, I'm cashing in... my Jeep was made aware of this.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Sat Feb 19, 2011 12:43 am

Everything is fine... Never under-estimate the healing power of laughter. The tools are for squares.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Feb 19, 2011 1:03 am

Well good for you JL..... what was the problem anyway?

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Sat Feb 19, 2011 2:48 pm

The problem was/is if you use a bolt, you don't know how far to turn it for proper lock. The first time we locked down, we were conservative about tightening the bolt too much for fear of damaging the cam. This caution lead to the exhaust side cam turning ever so slightly when we went about the removal of the cam gears. The 2nd time around, we were looking for it and all was fixed... it added roughly an hour to the whole job. Of course, if you don't mind the code and you want your CRD to sound like a PowerStroke, have at it.

If you use the bolts spec'd in the CRD Tech section, you'll want to tighten them all the way down until a 1/2" is still exposed.

The change in thermostat made a big difference too since now my gauge sits at noon like it's supposed to. I think the old t-stat was stuck in a state of mediocrity for the past few years since in the winter the engine never could warm up and in the summer it would always get hot... it suct having to drive in the desert with the heat on. I also replaced the fan clutch which I believe to have been effed since 2008 when I got hi-centered in door-handle deep water in a FL swamp.... but that story has been told more than once.

tonycrd · **Posted:** Sat Feb 19, 2011 3:21 pm

Glad you got it fixed so quickly! :pepper:

Code after timing belt

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