Oil Plug fitting

GaryC · **Joined:** Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:59 pm **Posts:** 21

I've got a new to me 2006 CRD and crawled under it this morning to change the oil. Instead of a nice metric bolt like I was expecting I see it takes what looks like a Torx or hex wrench. Can anyone tell me what size this is so I can buy the correct one?

Also, I've seen mentioned here that the pan is aluminum and to not overtighten the drain plug. Does anyone know the correct torque specs for the drain plug?

Thanks

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2011 1:22 pm

It sounds like you have the stock oil drain plug :SOMBRERO:

Before you strip the pan order a Fumoto valve so you never have to mess with the plug again. Most of us got them here :-)r

http://lubricationspecialist.com/front/index.aspx
But it you can't wait make 150% sure you reinstall the copper washer. Without it you will definetly strip the oil pan next time the plug is removed :dead:

It takes a 8mm hex key (Allen) to remove the drain plug.

GaryC · **Joined:** Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:59 pm **Posts:** 21

Thanks Joe. I do have the stock plug. I'll likely replace it with the Fumato but don't have time to wait for it to come in for this oil change.

Does anyone know the torque specs for the stock plug? I have a torque wrench, just need to know how much for the aluminum pan.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:30 pm

From the assembly line, the factory plug was in there TIGHT. So you don't have to baby it...just tighten it by feel and get it snug. Run the engine and if you see oil dripping, tighten it a little more. But it'll probably seal off fine the first time.

The problems happen when people take their Jeeps to shops and the morons either A) don't reuse the proper washer or B) use a 1/2" drive ratchet and crank on the plug way too much.

Just do it by feel until it's snug and you'll be fine. I definitely recommend getting the Fumoto valve and having it ready for the next oil change...it'll make life much easier.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:44 pm

GaryC wrote:

Does anyone know the correct torque specs for the drain plug?

I remember trying to find this myself (years back) in the service and owners manuals. I may be wrong but I think that no specs are given. Probably why you haven't gotten an exact answer yet.

Anyway, I put 25 ft-lbs in my notes and that is what I use.

edit: btw. I have a Fumoto valve on the bench that will go in next time (part# F102N).

tonycrd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2011 6:06 pm

According to the 2005 FSM It's 50Nm/ 37ft Lbs...and that is way to tight imo. (I tried it on an '06 and it scared the H out of me)

Tightend it by hand with a small 3/8 rachet just as I do on my '02 and it's fine.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2011 7:30 pm

tonycrd wrote:

According to the 2005 FSM It's 50Nm/ 37ft Lbs...and that is way to tight imo. (I tried it on an '06 and it scared the H out of me)

Tightend it by hand with a small 3/8 rachet just as I do on my '02 and it's fine.

Couldn't find this in the 2006 FSM (my year).

Just because some things seem to be missing in the '06, I do have the '05 FSM as well.
What ever happened to the idea of having a thread dedicated to FSM fixes? Remember the poll about which section it should go?

dirtmover · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2011 9:30 pm

tonycrd wrote:

According to the 2005 FSM It's 50Nm/ 37ft Lbs...and that is way to tight imo.

Torque specs are normally given for clean dry threads. This spec is way too high for well lubed plug threads.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2011 11:49 pm

Your problem will be removing the plug, not tightening it. If you just use an allen wrench, you will strip out the allen flats in the plug. Remove the skid plate so you can grab the perimeter of the plug really tight with visegrips, Use an allen wrench at the same time with modest torque as you pull hard on the visegrips. The factory makes a replacement plug that has a proper hex bolt-style head. I have been using this for several years with no worries.

The factory skid plate is not all that robust and I do not trust it to protect a Fumoto from being damaged and leaking out the life blood of the motor . Once you install the factory hex plug, you can easily fit an extension through the hole in the skid plate to remove it. The plate does not need to be removed. The Jeep has enough ground clearance so you don't even have to jack it up to change the oil and filter.

DOC

GaryC · **Joined:** Mon Mar 14, 2011 12:59 pm **Posts:** 21

Thanks guys. I ran to town and got an 8 mm allen socket. The plug was in tight and there's no way I could have gotten it out with a regular allen wrench. I bought the jeep used from a dealer and they last changed oil in it. Guess what, no copper washer to be found anywhere. I called the local jeep dealer (not the one I bought it from) and they had the proper washer in stock, so it was back to town (30 miles one way) for a $1.75 washer. By the time I got back home it was dark so it'll get finished in the morning. After 120 miles of driving to collect the right tools and a washer I've finally got everything I need to change oil. Sure is a lot of work for a simple oil change, it shouldn't be this complicated.

Thanks for the help.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2011 6:58 am

GaryC wrote:

Sure is a lot of work for a simple oil change, it shouldn't be this complicated.

Thanks for the help.

Are you saying there was no washer on your drain plug? If so when the plug is (was) inserted without a washer the tapered part of the plug next to the head will distort the last one or two threads. There's only about 4 threads total and when the plug is inserted into the damadged threads they strip out. Then a simple oil changes gets really complicated :dizzy:

Consider yourself lucky :BANANA:

So get the Fumoto valve and washer for next time :SOMBRERO:

Squeeto · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2011 4:48 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

Consider yourself lucky :BANANA:

So get the Fumoto valve and washer for next time :SOMBRERO:

The Fumoto that I bought has an included blue, composite washer. Do you think that it would be better to replace this with copper? The copper probably takes a little more torque to seal but once on, it would last forever.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2011 6:02 pm

Squeeto wrote:

Joe Romas wrote:

Consider yourself lucky :BANANA:

So get the Fumoto valve and washer for next time :SOMBRERO:

The Fumoto that I bought has an included blue, composite washer. Do you think that it would be better to replace this with copper? The copper probably takes a little more torque to seal but once on, it would last forever.

I used the blue one too and on the next change noticed it was seeping a little so I tightened it :BANANA:

Maybe the copper being harder would be less likely to loosen as it would not compress :?:

SLS · **Posted:** Sun Mar 20, 2011 3:21 am

Get the Fumoto valve with out the nipple and use the new copper washer you just bought from the dealer. You'll be glad you did Never again worry about stripping the threads! It doesn't stick out below the skid plate and it's real handy if you want to pull an oil sample. I just run the Jeep up on ramps in front, unless you are real skinny and change the oil and filter. I put down a big piece of cardboard and use an aluminum pan under the filter so I can bend it and guide the oil into a drain pan. That way I don't have to remove the skid plate like some do. No matter how big your catch pan is or the gloves you have on you can expect some black oil is going to go some place you didn't want it to.

Oil Plug fitting

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