2006 CRD Emissions Failed

Big Jimmy · **Joined:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:48 pm **Posts:** 30

Hi... I'm new to the forum, so I hope I'm doing this right...

I have a stock 2006 Liberty CRD. I live in the Everett, WA area and this is the first time I've had to go through the emissions test with my Jeep. And it failed. Now my tabs are expired and I'm not sure what to do.

The first time it went through, it failed the opacity test with a reading of 37%. The limit is 20%.

So I went and got some Power Service brand Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost to try to clean my injectors. I also changed the oil (because it was due anyway) and put in a new air filter. Then I topped it off with about 6.5 gallons of B75 (because I thought that the Biodiesel would help it run cleaner) and took it back through the emissions test again.

This time it failed with a 97% opacity reading.

Now what am I supposed to do? Did it fail worse just because of the Diesel Kleen additive? Or is the Biodiesel the problem? Does anybody have some experience with the same problem? I really don't want to have to pay a shop to try and figure out what's going on.

Thanks
James

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:30 pm

Hi welcome to the forum.

To start off, reading the Noob guide is always a good thing to do:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54207

Now since your failing opacity I think my first question to you is, when was the last time you cleaned your MAP?

I think this is the most likely cause of your problems given that you are not experiencing any other symptoms or CEL.

Big Jimmy · **Joined:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:48 pm **Posts:** 30

Sir Sam wrote:

To start off, reading the Noob guide is always a good thing to do:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54207

Now since your failing opacity I think my first question to you is, when was the last time you cleaned your MAP?

I actually did start reading the Noob guide right after I made this post. And to answer your question... Never. I bought the Jeep brand new and I have never had to do anything to it myself. Since I bought it new, it was still under warranty, so I always took it to the dealer. Now it's got 72,000 miles on it and no more warranty. So now I need to start doing things myself.

So I agree, It probably is because the MAP is filthy. So I guess I need to tear into that and clean it up. I think I'm going to start making some modifications to this thing. From what I've read so far I think I also have the TC Shudder problem. I never knew why it did that before. I thought it was maybe the transmission just not being able to figure out what gear it really wants to be in. I am also having a problem now with my ABS System. Those lights have been all lit up now for about a month. Anyway... Now I'm rambling. It looks like I've got some work to do. Oh... I also found the link to the service manual download. So that's cool. I thought I would have to go out a buy one.

I just went through all this same stuff with my VW TDI. I just had to do a timing belt and intake clean-out on that. Here we go again.

Thanks for the help... I know it's going to be great to be a member of the forum. I plan on keeping my Jeep and my VW for a good long time. I love my diesels. I guess it's about time I stop neglecting this one.

James

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Sat Mar 26, 2011 4:09 pm

I fill up with bio before I do emissions testing with all my diesels. They pass every time.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:30 pm

2X on clean the MAP mine smoked some on part and WOT after that was cleaned much less. also might not be it but is the oil full? Filled to MAX on the stick is too full... the dip sticks are wrong. it should be in the middle between add and max or the CCV puts out more oil vapor in to the intake stream.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Mar 26, 2011 7:45 pm

Big Jimmy wrote:

I actually did start reading the Noob guide right after I made this post. And to answer your question... Never. I bought the Jeep brand new and I have never had to do anything to it myself. Since I bought it new, it was still under warranty, so I always took it to the dealer. Now it's got 72,000 miles on it and no more warranty. So now I need to start doing things myself.

So I agree, It probably is because the MAP is filthy. So I guess I need to tear into that and clean it up

In that case there is a high degree of probability that your MAP is badly clogged up and has been for some time. Typically the dealers never even knew to clean these things out, so it may have NEVER been cleaned.

If you run around with the ORM and EHM going then after a few months you will stop getting crap on the MAP. I've been running with the ORM for 80k miles now and the EHM for probably 50-60k and I keep checking the MAP, but it doesn't really get that dirty anymore.

Doing the ORM and the EHM is the best cheapest mod you can do to these things.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:18 pm

Have you taken it for an Italian Tune up? When mine was stock and it had been driven around town quite a bit conservatively, I could floor it on the on ramp and leave a smoke screen that could block out the sun until it had been run hard a few times and taken for a long highway drive.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 27, 2011 12:20 am

Don't take it in to the test while doing the ORM. the ORM mod make it throw a CEL because the computer is not getting a reading from the air flow sensor and they might fail you on the spot for that. I don't know how your state is but in PA thats how it is for gassers. come in with a CEL on and you fail. they don't have things set up to test diesels here so I dont have to have mine tested yet.... I'm sure its comming in a few years.

Italian tune up yeah thats a good idea too. charge up a few long on ramps and drive hard a few miles is good to clean things, its said that it cleans the vaines in the turbo too so they don't stick.

I have been doing the ORM since I got mine and had a provent for almost 20,000 miles. I have not cecked my MAP in a long time but I bet its not as dirty as it was when I first cleaned it. I think I might check it when I look for chafed wires tomorrow.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:57 am

You could also have a ruptured boost hose. I think Sam covered that in the Noob guide.
An Itilaian tuneup will blow the soot out of the catalyic converter that accumulates with slow city driving.
Make sure it's up to operating temperature when you have it tested.

There have been very few reports of properly running CRD's failing emmissions.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:05 am

Joe didn't a few people on here have small ruptures in their boost hose and it wasn't super obvious to them until each hose was checked top to bottom? small leak wouldn't show as much as a total or near total loss of boost and that could be his problem... the engine is slightly over fueled for the air its getting. Also He should be sure he has a clean air filter too.

arengant · **Posted:** Sun Mar 27, 2011 12:09 pm

Mine passed last year, no problems. I have the GDE tune now, I think it MIGHT have too high NOX reading, but I don't remember seeing in on the test here in WA?

If you need any local help Big Jimmy, let us know!

Big Jimmy · **Joined:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:48 pm **Posts:** 30

Joe Romas wrote:

Make sure it's up to operating temperature when you have it tested.

Now I'm wondering if that's the problem.

Mine is currently running at the same painted-on orange mark as in this picture. So if my thermostat is bad, and it's never reaching full operating temp, is that what's killing my emissions test results?

I cleaned the MAP Sensor yesterday. It was pretty sooted-up. And I was thinking that I was going to try to run it through emissions again today to see if that was the problem... But now I don't know if I should try to the emissions test again today or not... What do you guys think?

onthehunt · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:07 am

Make sure you are getting proper boost psi. Without it the CRD will smoke bad. The vacuum solenoid has been known to go bad on more than a few of these.

Big Jimmy · **Joined:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:48 pm **Posts:** 30

onthehunt wrote:

Make sure you are getting proper boost psi. Without it the CRD will smoke bad.

How do I check that?

I don't know if that's the problem, though. Mine's not smoking that bad at all. I took it out on a few freeway on-ramps to see what would happen. The first ramp I got on, I just held the pedal to the floor, and there was definetly a black cloud of smoke on that run. But then on the 2nd and 3rd ramp-runs, It wasn't really smoking too much at all. So I don't have very much visible smoke, and my Jeep seems to be running great... Plenty of power and smooth acceleration. It just won't pass emissions and I don't know why.

arengant · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:13 pm

My thermostat is about the same, which is sad because the ambient temp around here has gone up!

I would say mine doesn't run quite the same as last summer as far as power... personally I'd say try it once now since you cleaned the MAP.

A new thermostat is 100 bucks, which would help driveability if not emissions, and that could/should go to the 150 dollar minimum needed to repair emissions. If I remember right you get one free re-inspection right?

My test is due in August, so I'll be following what helps you.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 12:29 pm

While you should address the thermostat problem I think now with a cleaned MAP you should consider retesting, theres a good chance that now with the clean map you will pass.

Big Jimmy · **Joined:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:48 pm **Posts:** 30

arengant wrote:

A new thermostat is 100 bucks, which would help driveability if not emissions, and that could/should go to the 150 dollar minimum needed to repair emissions. If I remember right you get one free re-inspection right?

Yes... You do get one free re-test, which I've already used. So I have to pay again next time I go back. And yes, there is still the 150 dollar threshold for the amount of money you need to put into it before you can waive the emissions inspection. But I think to be able to waive the test, you need to have that work done at one of the mechanic's shops that they have on their "Qualified Repair Shop" list. I've been doing all of the work myself. And if I get a new thermostat, I'm going to do that myself as well. So I don't know if that means anything as far as whether or not I can waive the test.

Sir Sam wrote:

While you should address the thermostat problem I think now with a cleaned MAP you should consider retesting, theres a good chance that now with the clean map you will pass.

I was thinking the same thing... And I was planning on running it back through emissions today... But then I also thought that I still have almost a full tank of fuel with the Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost additive in there, and I'm not so sure that that stuff is so good as far as the emissions are concerned. Because my second test failed so much worse than the first one (test one: 37%, test two: 91%), I'm trying to decide whether or not I need to drain the fuel out of the tank and get some fresh fuel for the next test.

What do you think about that? I don't want to have to keep paying for this stupid test over and over again... But I also don't want to drain the tank unless I absolutely have to.

What to do... What to do...

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 1:21 pm

here is where I got my Thermostat $100.68

http://www.moparonlineparts.com/partloc ... atalogid=0

you will need a gasket too $1.96

http://www.moparonlineparts.com/partloc ... atalogid=0

Big Jimmy · **Joined:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:48 pm **Posts:** 30

Well... It looks like I need to drain the fuel.

I just went for test number 3... And failed with an 82% result (limit 20%).

So cleaning the MAP Sensor definitely helped... But not nearly enough.

It's looking like I should have never put in the Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost additive.

That sucks. Now I have to drain the tank. I guess... I don't really know what else to do. I'm thinking it must be the fuel.

The other thing that sucks it that there are no more free tests. I thought it was: Pay for test 1 and then if you fail, test 2 is free. Pay for test 3 and then if you fail, test 4 is free. But that's not how it works. Instead it's: Pay for test 1 and then if you fail, test 2 is free. Pay for test 3 and then if you fail, you still pay again for test 4. And test 5 and 6 and so on... So only test 2 is free. That blows.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Any chance the test lab is not setting up the chassis dyno properly for your CRD? Some facilities have had issues with the ESP function on a 2 wheel dyno. If you did 5-6 WOT runs of 0-60 mph and the exhaust was clean afterwards and you are not seeing massive black smoke clouds from a stop, the Jeep should be running fine. Very doubtful the diesel kleen and cetane booster are causing the smoke. 80% opacity is very dark smoke and would be noticeable from a few blocks away. Good luck.

2006 CRD Emissions Failed

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