Has any one used water/methanol injection (windshield washer fluid) in the CRD ? I was wondering if the methanol ( being a solvent ) would help keep the intake tract and various sensors clean. My girlfriend doesn't run her CRD very hard so when I drive it on the weekends taking her around to various errands I take it up an on ramp hard to blow the gook out of the turbo. It smokes pretty hard for a couple seconds and then clears up and will smoke only the smallest amount for a fraction of a second if you repeat the run. Also, what is a SEGR ?

Do a search, this topic was covered in depth before and discussed at great length.
The problem is that the Water Methanol is that it is one more thing to deal with with not enough benefit for every day use.
If you want to get rid of the gunk in the exhaust system and make it run better: 1) Get rid of that stock muffler with one that breaths. 2) Open up the choke flange behind the cat. I ran a bunch of tests, do 1 &2 and the back pressure drops from as much as 5 PSI to 0.0 PSI. 5 PSI less back pressure on the turbo lets it spool up faster and boost higher.
You will not believe how much better it runs.

Also go with a Provent, Oil Separator, or EHM. It will get rid of the gunk in the intake.
SEGR will shut off the EGR that does nothing more than trash the engine and make the engine comply with regulations created by 60's Acid Heads who now work for CARB and EPA.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Its 'official'; that is I read it in The Economist: .."Though it sounds bizarre, mixing water into the fuel helps it to burn better. The heat of combustion breaks water molecules up. The resulting hydrogen atoms help to split hydrocarbon molecules, making them more combustible, while the oxygen released goes on to combine with the carbon, ensuring that more of it burns.

All this has, in truth, been known for years. But previous attempts to turn it into practical technology have failed. Reinhard Strey of the University of Cologne is, however, having another go. He thinks he has cracked the main (and obvious) difficulty—that oil and water do not easily mix.

His answer is to use a surfactant."

http://www.economist.com/node/16271415

Of course this is in marine diesels, but it is clear that adding water helps them run cleaner and more efficiently. It is also clear that it is hard to set up an effective water injection system.

Lurch,

First off. Warp2 knows his stuff and he and I are on the same page about 98% of the time when i read his posts. On the other hand I run water/meth in my truck and everytime I start a thread about water meth the CRD(hippies haha) folks seem to ignore it, i dont know if thats becasue its me thats posting haha or if none of these guys know just b/c they havnt tried it...or It really dosent help out these little 2.8 enough to justify. I have yet to get a good search on this forum while searching. Anyways, I do know I picked up about 90rwhp on my cummins with a 40/60 mix of water and true meth for racing applications. I wouldnt run that on the street/all the time because it could lean out too much and actually do the opposite of what i want it to do and combust(make race fuel) melting stuff, So anyways I also have ran just water and or wiper fluid. The water has almost no gain in hp but drops my egts. The fluid and water mix bumps up the hp a little abd drops egts even more. So I have never seen a post on here with results of water/meth set up in a CRD but I dont see why it wouldnt either make some nice hp, or cool egts off a bunch. By the way, im sure some hippies would say no but save your CRD and do the EHM asap. And remove the CAT/ or do that flange thing warp is talking about. Also im sure someone will chime in about removing the cat, dont listen to them. If you can get away with it do it imo. A honda hybrid will put out way more bad stuff than your CRD with out the cat and EHM put togather. Enjoy your ride!

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06 Cummins 2wd- industrial injection sliver bullet 66,pdi manifold,smarty(tnt tune),Dr. Performance predator w/ race tune,Fass 150/200,Goerend full billet trans,Pusher intake manifold,snow meth,boost fooler,cal tracs, Stage 2 AFE, about 9 isspros, II dual feed lines, wicked injection pump, mag hytec's, studs,spings and cam.

2005 CRD

Nothing wrong with meth at all. Nobody runs it on the CRD because nobody's looking for huge horsepower or towing 10klbs like the cummins crowd. This is a light duty SUV and you risk destroying your drivetrain with too much hp. But feel free to try it and let us know where the edge of the envelope is on these!

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Yea, im not scared. Im sending my ecu in this week to GDE for a hot tune and iv got an extra controller/pump here so ill whip up a kit when i get the ecu back and have it dyno'd that way we can put his all to rest with real numbers and ill post some egt results as well.

The only thing I am worried about is floating the valves.....Anyone float their valves yet?

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06 Cummins 2wd- industrial injection sliver bullet 66,pdi manifold,smarty(tnt tune),Dr. Performance predator w/ race tune,Fass 150/200,Goerend full billet trans,Pusher intake manifold,snow meth,boost fooler,cal tracs, Stage 2 AFE, about 9 isspros, II dual feed lines, wicked injection pump, mag hytec's, studs,spings and cam.

2005 CRD

Nope, you are in uncharted waters.

_________________
05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

My valves did not float at 5,000 RPM. This happened when my trans had a very brief air bubble disconnect after doing the Transgo SunCoast upgrade on my first test drive. The fluid in the pan (10 Qts) dropped too low when I punched it to pull away from a tail gating Cadillac. I still blew away the Cadillac but seeing the tach at 5K is not easing. The dip stick said it was full at 10 Qts with the engine running when I started off on my first test drive, after that I went back home and added more fluid, drove some more and added some more. When I got up to 17 Quarts in the trans with my extra deep PML pan like they use on the 68RFE trans, it was happy. I heard the standard pan takes 13 Quarts after the Transgo/SunCosast swap.

Years ago Mercedes got one of their 6 Cylinded IDI engines up to 6K for a race application. I am sure the new racing diesels can go higher, and I bet someone here would know. But I bet the ECMs are mapped to advance the timing enough to compensate. I don't know the limit on our CRDs.

dieselsmoke, I think you better hunt down the Rocket Chip guy and twist his arm, I don't think Keith can give you all the HP you want. Ron Wolverton can fix you up with the 800 HP 68RFE clutch pack and the big input shaft with a double disk lock up clutch Torque Converter. All of this will drop into your 545RFE (I passed this one up). Then you better get a Dana 3.73:1 3/4 ton or 1 ton rear end so you don't twist off the rear axle shafts. Since you have the '05 you can put the rear ABS sensor onto the Dana 3/4 ton rear end too. Better go with the Jeepin' Al steel front axle while your at it so you don't split open the case.
Will you be the first with a Dully CRD?
OH ya, replace the Glow Plugs with Plasma Igniters, something a Future Generation of Diesels will have.
Then you will need all of the drive train components above including the rear duals.

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Those Diesel powered ships burn Bunker C a real thick oil with much longer carbon chains. Some of them like the FM OP use #2 Diesel for pilot ignition just to get the Bunker C to start burning. The tricks the guy is trying sound interesting, but it will be a while before we have a water emulsion at our #2 fuel pumps.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Dully CRD. Im just gonna try out the hot tune mixed with a little meth and see how she holds up. Might throw in a few AWD launches at half boost and see how that goes too. I have launched my CRD in 4WH plenty of times though, It pulls ok. Its only a matter of time b/c the input/output or axles go though.

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06 Cummins 2wd- industrial injection sliver bullet 66,pdi manifold,smarty(tnt tune),Dr. Performance predator w/ race tune,Fass 150/200,Goerend full billet trans,Pusher intake manifold,snow meth,boost fooler,cal tracs, Stage 2 AFE, about 9 isspros, II dual feed lines, wicked injection pump, mag hytec's, studs,spings and cam.

2005 CRD

Hey everyone, I'm not looking to roast the drive train, I'm looking to use the water during towing and running hard through the gears. I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure that the programmers for these systems can be set for our lil' 2.8 . Also, I cannot get "froggy" as the only 2.8 I can get my hands on is my girlfriends' and she would probably give me a good chase in her wheelchair. Soon though !
I had read a thread about how the MAP sensor gets gooked up and even with the EGR turned off, a little mild solvent like the watered down methanol would do a nice job of keeping the little bugger clean and happy. Waddaya think ?

Ah, nothing beats a 4wd boosted launch and leaving 4 spinning tire marks on the road when doing it.


The best bet for keeping the intake clean is the EHM, and some form of the EGR disable.

I don't think water/meth would really be a benefit in your case. The 2 mods above would best serve that purpose. But if you must do injection i would just do only water and skip on the meth.

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06 crd, straight pipe, EHM,
99 f250 7.3l powerstroke sled puller, All kinds of goodies.
79 2.3 turbo mustang hatch
88 5.0 vert (blown, but soon to be TT stroker)
66 f100 project.
01 cbr 929rr

Bringing her back to life as to not contaminate with another thread. Anyone do this successfully? Im planning on putting in a Snow Performance MPG Max kit on my libby in oct. after I install a suncoast tc/hemi clutch pack and GDE turbo kit puttin a Detroit and Yukon 4:10 in the rear for strength so ill be setup for the power (hoping for 300/500 optimisticly) just want to know if anyone has run into quenching issues since theres so much crap in the intake path for liquid to build up on. Im gonna install bungs in the samcos i have sitting there (urban cammo ones Woot!) And allready have a spot for the nozzles to have clearance.

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2005 Dodge Ram HD CTD 2" lift on 35/12.5s, straight pipe, AEM CAI, DS Powerpuck Ex 21.2MPG
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport .5" level on 245/70s, 3" straight pipe, ORM 24.6MPG (TOTALED)
2010 JK Rubi stock (for now)

COLORADO NATIVE

That would explain a lot, your having read it in The Economist. If they are full of half as much bull*t about economics as they are about combustion chemistry, no wonder the financial system is in such poor shape.

"heat of combustion breaks water molecules up." Right. What are you burning in there, plutonium??? The simple truth is that getting things in your combustion chamber hot enough to "break water molecules up" can't be achieved without burning something a whole lot more powerful than diesel fuel.

It is true that adding water CAN have some significant advantages. Just not the ones attributed to it in that article.

Yes it works, Mine is set to cut in at 8psi boost pressure with a steady flow, I feel that a progressive/ variable system would work better for the CRD. No gain in MPG with my setup.

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION

Cool did you remove the egr crap? Im worried about it catching water and having quench issues at startup.....

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2005 Dodge Ram HD CTD 2" lift on 35/12.5s, straight pipe, AEM CAI, DS Powerpuck Ex 21.2MPG
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport .5" level on 245/70s, 3" straight pipe, ORM 24.6MPG (TOTALED)
2010 JK Rubi stock (for now)

COLORADO NATIVE

Cool did you remove the egr crap? Im worried about it catching water and having quench issues at startup.....[/quote]

My Jeep was SEGR'ed with very few miles on it, so there is very little if any crud. I would not worry about quench issues at startup, a properly adjusted system won't inject at until the set boost point, normally 5-15psi. I would be carefull with how many gpm/gph you throw into the intake, it's a small engine, and in this application "more is not better"

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION

Did you get a strong response when it was installed? Im guessing id add about 40-50whp as the TDI kits add 20-30 and a Cummins kit adds 70-100. I dont live far from Snow Performance so ill play with different nozzles (once i get it installed) at the shop if theyll let me.

_________________
2005 Dodge Ram HD CTD 2" lift on 35/12.5s, straight pipe, AEM CAI, DS Powerpuck Ex 21.2MPG
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport .5" level on 245/70s, 3" straight pipe, ORM 24.6MPG (TOTALED)
2010 JK Rubi stock (for now)

COLORADO NATIVE

Some but not much, this is where a varible rate - staged injection system would shine. I feel for the cost and time involved in tinkering with it, you would get more bang for your buck with other mods.

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION

Yeah cost isnt a real worry, im allready droping 2k into the trans for.the TC and clutch pack so it will hold 350+ hp might as well try to use it to its fullest The MPG Max kit is variable stage with 2 injector sizes and ramped pressure thats why I chose it for this build, thanks for the info that really puts my mind to rest about quench with you running a single stage setup without issue.

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2005 Dodge Ram HD CTD 2" lift on 35/12.5s, straight pipe, AEM CAI, DS Powerpuck Ex 21.2MPG
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Sport .5" level on 245/70s, 3" straight pipe, ORM 24.6MPG (TOTALED)
2010 JK Rubi stock (for now)

COLORADO NATIVE