Does anyone have one of the original 7 volt ceramic glow plugs that they want to get rid of cheap?

I have one left from replacing them for the 5v version. just pay a UPS store to have it ship from Houston TX to your location and I will drop it off next week. be careful when you get the old one out, if that sucker brakes inside the head you'll be in a world to hurt (personal experience lol)

I am looking for some used ones as well if any one has any, after dingo gets his first of course.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

I was thinking if you kept the piston in TDC for each cylinder you are working on, would it make it more helpful in retrieving a broken fragment? The other question is, how would you know the piston was at TDC?

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

well, mine didn't brake at the tip, it broke at the head so it was quite an ordeal to take out. The plug thread has to be drill out and then you have to make new thread inside the GP itself so you can adapt an extractor to pull it out. anyway, if dingo doesn't respond within a couple of day I can send it to you.

User YAKERS says he got 2 7v GPs he can also share, his post is: Sat May 28, 2011 10:59 pm on thread viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60901

yakers sent two GPs to two different board posters, hope they help them out but sorry , none left at home. I do have the old relay if someone needs it but those don't usually go wrong.

Camo - I got the glow plug. Thanks again.

I now have the new long block engine installed and all the stuff reassembled. My first try at cranking it has been unsuccessful. I suspect air in the fuel system. I'm not sure what the best way to purge the fuel system all the way to the injectors is. I guess I'll post a topic and see if anyone has some ideas.

Install an electric lift pump and crack open the bleeder, quicker than pumping (Assuming you are older than 19 )

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

any time. the way I pumped it after replacing the whole inlet fuel line was with a harbor tools hand pump so I could presurized the fuel a bit better. just get one ($10) or so and install it in-line from the water separator fuel head to the injection pump (if you use a clear hose will let you follow a bit better what you are doing). after you are done, just reinstall the injection pump hose again, start the libby and let it run at 1200rpm for some 2 min. then you can shut it off and do some normal bleeding of the system with the fuel filter head pump.
PS: if you pump your fuel filter head and doesn't seem to get any harder as you pump, then you have to replace the filter head (been there)