Major Damage

nalu · **Posted:** Tue Jul 05, 2011 5:28 pm

Long story short, elephant hose got pinched and caused major smoking. Stopped and found problem, but still smoked for the next 45 minutes. Noticed leaking oil and traced to little hole in starter. Removed starter and there appears to be oil in bell housing, so I assume I need a rear main seal. It doesn't look like it is coming from EGR, but I will still remove to investigate. Removed CAC outlet hose and there was a lot of oil in the hose and intake valve. I read about cleaning inter-cooler & map sensor in this case. I will greatly appreciate any advice anyone has for me. My 2005 has around 200k. I replaced the timing belt at 140k. My water pump is going out as well. I have a new pump, just couldn't change it when I changed the timing belt. I'm on the waiting list for special tool kit from GDE and will delve into that problem when it arrives. Otherwise my engine runs great. Not ready to call it quits. I've never removed a transmission or changed a rear main, but I figured out the timing belt change without the special tools so I plan to get a transmission jack adapter, keep a laptop connected to lostkj handy, and have at it. Do I just need a seal puller to change the rear main seal? I guess I need to drain remaining oil (engine never ran out or ran hot) and coolant too? I've never had trouble with my torque convertor, but should I change it while I'm at it? Is there anything else I should do while I'm at it? Do I need a gasket for the rear timing cover when I pull it off to replace water pump?

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:02 pm

I take it you are getting the rear main seal installer tool from GDE as well as the timing belt tools?

nalu · **Posted:** Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:25 pm

I am now!

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 05, 2011 10:54 pm

I think you correctly diagnosed the problem. Next time you see white smoke, stop immediately. (Don't ask me how I know.) Replacing the rear main seal is a great time to install a "euro" TC.

If your water pump is badly leaking coolant and you are having touble keeping up with it, try "K-Seal" until you get around replacing it. When the second water pump on our Kubota diesel tractor started leaking badly, I couldn't face the horrible job of replacing it again. K-Seal comes highly recommended from countless users. Not only did it stop the leak completely, the tractor runs cooler than it did before. Flushes out of rad and block easily when you get to finally replacing the water pump.

Make SURE you remove enough coolant from the rad to get ALL of the K-Seal directly into the radiator, NOT the coolant recovery bottle.

DOC

nalu · **Posted:** Wed Jul 06, 2011 12:08 am

water pump isn't leaking too badly, but dripping constantly. I add a cup per 1k miles. I have the pump and the tools coming. I just don't see the inner timing cover gasket on moparonlineparts. Is the dealership my only source for the euro torque converter?

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 06, 2011 6:54 am

There are several online sources that discount. I got mine from Molar Parts Online.

DOC

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Jul 06, 2011 7:41 am

If it were me.

(1) There's most likely a lot of oil in the belhousing area that will continue to drain out. I would keep a close eye on it and "wait and see" if the rear main seal is still leaking.
(2) I've not removed a transmission and this one is big and has the transfercase attatched. So while your doing it I would spring for the SunCoast TC. Then take the transmission to a shop and have them rebuild/replace the front pump. Suncoast has remanufactured and improved pumps too. More $$'s for sure but at 200k that jeep wes you nothing :jester:

nalu · **Posted:** Wed Jul 06, 2011 9:43 am

I just can't find the torque converter on the website. I thought that they would have it. Okay, front pump in transmission as well. And yeah, this jeep owes me nothing. It's leaking a little oil and water, so what. It runs better than the day I got it and has given me 200k of heavy duty service. I was good to it, but did not baby it. Heavy trailers, off-road excursions to find remote kayaking access, and idling for long periods of time to air condition my dogs. How else could oil be in the bell housing if not from the rear main seal? Remember, I'm a self-taught, shade-tree mechanic at best. Can I just drain oil from bell housing, refill engine, and see if it comes back? When I realized what was going on, it had lost oil to below the minimum fill mark. I added 2 quarts and drove it home. Now it shows that it is back at minimum fill. It never liked to be filled much above this anyway.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Thu Jul 07, 2011 2:03 pm

So... EHM.... gotta get me some of that action.

cerich · **Posted:** Thu Jul 07, 2011 4:52 pm

JL Rockies wrote:

So... EHM.... gotta get me some of that action.

You are a complete and utter jerk. You contribute NOTHING but smart arse comments on the CRD when you aren't trying to prop up the constant fraud we all undergo from mechanics and dealerships.

You really have nothing better to do?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Jul 07, 2011 7:34 pm

nalu wrote:

Can I just drain oil from bell housing, refill engine, and see if it comes back? When I realized what was going on, it had lost oil to below the minimum fill mark. I added 2 quarts and drove it home. Now it shows that it is back at minimum fill. It never liked to be filled much above this anyway.

Well my thinking was just MAYBE with the pressure relieved from the crankcase it might stop leaking. But since it's lost more oil since you put in 2 quarts the seal must be bad. I would still keep a close eye on it and keep driving and monitor the situation. There's no way to "drain" the bell housing just let it drip :BANANA:

alphred · **Posted:** Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:47 pm

I'm sorry to cut your topic, but I would like to know if I can draw a parallel with my problem
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=61315

My EHM was not pinched, in a moment of madness, I put a plastic cap at the end. I'm not proud of this error

thanks

nalu · **Posted:** Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:55 pm

Thanks for the link. Similar situation. My turbo seems fine though. Good to know not to worry so much about intercooler. Inside of CAC hose was oily, but not completely coated. I'm afraid the pressure caused the oil to get past the rear main, given the amount of oil that seems to be in my bell housing. After this weekend I plan to try and get what I can out of the bell housing, drive it locally and see if it still blows oil out of the starter. Oh yeah, don't worry because the pinch was my user error as well. Re-routed it to go get my annual emission inspection. Put the cover over it to hide it and took off. Smoked out the inspection building while I was waiting in line. I had to drive off to get to where I could open the hood and fix it. Luckily I had a smoke screen.

alphred · **Posted:** Thu Jul 07, 2011 10:19 pm

Nalu thank you for sharing your storie with me! It's been several days that I did not laugh like that, because of my problems with KJ.

:5SHOTS:

alphred · **Posted:** Thu Jul 07, 2011 10:24 pm

For my education, I would like to know what is bell housing and where it is.

Thank you

dritchie · **Posted:** Thu Jul 07, 2011 10:40 pm

The bell housing is the front flared end of the transmission where it connects to the engine, where the torque converter resides.

dave

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Jul 09, 2011 7:53 am

alphred wrote:

For my education, I would like to know what is bell housing and where it is.

Thank you

They call it a "Bell Housing" because it's shaped like a bell. the large open end goes over the Flywheel/torque converter on the engine and where it fastens to the transmission it tapers down.

nalu · **Posted:** Tue Jul 12, 2011 11:16 pm

Update: Pushed a clear tube through the hole left from removal of starter and vacuumed a pint or so of oil out. Refilled oil to full mark, took it for a spin and got it up to operating temp. Oil still slowly dripping from starter. Drove for about an hour and lost half a quart. I guess I'm dropping the transmission and replacing the rear main seal. Any advice? I can figure out removing the transmission, but have never replaced a rear main seal. I am waiting to hear back from GDE about the seal remover tool.

arengant · **Posted:** Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:47 pm

I have slight oil/wet spot on the bottom of my bellhousing, so I searched on LOST for the rear main. You can do it without the tool, someone said they tightened the fly wheel in a cross pattern to slowly push the new seal in... but I would wait for GDE. I have replaced the rear main on my Ford 460, different but not impossible.

I also have the Euro TC from moparonlineparts waiting to be installed, so I looked up GDE's instructions. I think it's very doable for both. Oh, and they guy that posted on here about using the flywheel said it took him IIRC about 4 hours extra on top of replacing his TC, so 12 hour project.

Good luck!

Major Damage

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