Trailer Brown wire went to ground where white was supposed to go. Blew fuses. Replaced 15amp in the LH dash fuse block. Problem still there. Nothing in the underhood fusebox. Must be the fuseable link where ever that is? Anyone know? The engine light came on as well. Reported brake default.

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06 CRD Sport Patriot Blue $23,9k 37k(sold 10/09)
05 CRD Sport Patriot Blue $17k 43k(sold 03/10)
05 CRD Sport Atlantic Blue Sunroof $13k 84k(sold in 2011)
05 CRD Sport Radiant Silver $13,5k 77k(sold 10/11)
05 CRD LIMITED Radiant Silver $17k 70k(sold 12/11)
05 CRD LIMITED Black Green $16k 60k(sold 12/11)
05 CRD SPORT Black $15,9k 93k(in stock)

The only fusable link I have seen in the circuit diagrams is the thick lead going from the alternator to the battery...I doubt that would be your problem.
There are also some circuit breakers in the fuse boxes and I believe in the BCM that you may need to look at.
Try get a circuit diagram for your Jeep, I believe there is one available in Sams' Noob guide...I only have for the 2002 KJs.

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Get the FSM as BillWill suggested
I'm looking at page 8W-54-1, the first page for "Trailer Tow" and there are 4 fuses listed.
You'll need to printout that section and also one telling you the fuse locations. Here's the fuses listed.
F10
F19
F25
F9

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

I had a similar issue with my trailer lights. It was a crappy install before I bought it. I found wire that was rubbing causing metal contact resulting in blown fuses. Can't remember what code it was throwing but my brake lights would not work at all. Dealer tried to change out every possible sensor, module, and other crap first. In the end it was just a frayed wire. I had to tell them to follow the wire and stop replacing everything and wasting time. Luckily it was part of the purchase that it needed to be fixed. Good luck. Electrical problems suck.

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05 CRD
97 Toyota FZJ80 12v Cummins/NV4500-build thread
96 Lexus LX 450
96 Ford F350 4x4

4 fuses is correct, the brake lights are INDIVIDUALLY fused (which is a PITA) and the brake SWITCH is also fused. I cannot recall what the 4th fuse is, might be the marker (parking) light fuse. Stupid electrical design, Chrysler takes everything they can and make it more complicated.

I had a problem with a bad trailer wiring job too, and without one of those 4 fuses, NONE of the brake lights would work for me, neither would the cruise control. IIRC, the only code I was getting was "brake switch 1 inoperative" or something similar. The brake switch actually has 2 circuits in it (only the one switch) and apparently they have different fuses. One was out, the other wasn't, which pissed off the computer.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

This is the reason I bought a OEM harness

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No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.

What makes the "OEM" harness different from anyone else's? They still have to pull voltage from the same circuits, through the same fuses. I have a harness too, from Etrailer.com that connects behind both taillights to the factory light harnesses, and pulls the signal from there. If you have a trailer that has too-large lights (or too many) it can pull too much wattage for the fuse and even a correctly wired trailer will pop the fuses.

The only way to truly isolate the trailer from the vehicle wiring would be with signal relays activating a trailer-mounted battery to the lights. Extremely unlikely to find a trailer like that unless you did it yourself. Even wiring up relays to your own lights with a dedicated fused feed to the trailer from your battery... Is still unusual, but better b/c it would work for all trailers.

Does your harness have relay or diode isolation for the host vehicle? I'm genuinely curious, b/c all of the ones I saw when looking for mine were just like the one I got - pull the power from the host taillights. I don't have my brake controller mounted in the CRD, that would be a dedicated wiring job AFAIK.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

The relays in the OEM harness and the dedicated power supply from the battery. The e-spec harness I have has relays for each circuit but the 7-pole connector is different from the US one.

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No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.

The MOPAR and Factory cables for the US CRD's also have relays and a seperate power line from the battery
Same for the XJ's

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)